Opinions; temporary glue

[aurfalien]

Hi,

I've been messing around with build techniques and finding myself temporarily gluing a kit together for both fit and visual purposes.

It seems to really help, I just don't have enough experience to feel super confident or familiar with how a kits gonna turn out before hand.

I bought Microscale Liquitape but prefer good old Elmers white glue.

The Liquitape gets gooey and hard to remove.  Plus it seems you need a solvent for optimum removal.

Were as Elmers seems to come off real easy on both plastic or resin.

What are your thoughts and experiences with temp gluing?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[Mark]

I've always used Elmer's.  Cheap, it holds, and it's easy to remove.  Works for me.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I do a lot of heavy modifications, so I often have need of a means of fastening parts temporarily while evaluating styling changes, component placement, and general mocking-up.

I've developed several techniques that work very well for me, but may not be for everyone.

A tiny drop of CA makes an excellent temporary adhesive sometimes, as it doesn't penetrate and can usually be snapped quite easily, then the residue cleaned off with files and sandpaper.

I also very often use a VERY small amount of liquid "cement", carefully placed with either a very fine hypodermic needle (diabetes-style) or a Touch-n-Flow applicator. It's not a method for the timid, because the stuff DOES actually "weld" parts together, and too much can make parts difficult to get apart.

I also rely on plain old rubber cement for assembling engines and the like. It works well for broad flat surfaces like cylinder-heads-to-blocks, and manifolds, timing covers, bellhousings, etc. It's re-positionable and comes off very easily when it's time for final assembly. A drop also works well for keeping tires from rolling away while stance and ride height are determined during the mockup phase.

While I use white-glues (PVA, like Elmers and Testors and Microscale Krystal Klear) for permanent installation of clear parts, it doesn't have any initial "grab", so It doesn't fit my needs as a temporary adhesive, usually.

 

Edited February 11, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[Snake45]

I do a lot of heavy modifications, so I often have need of a means of fastening parts temporarily while evaluating styling changes, component placement, and general mocking-up.

I've developed several techniques that work very well for me, but may not be for everyone.

A tiny drop of CA makes an excellent temporary adhesive sometimes, as it doesn't penetrate and can usually be snapped quite easily, then the residue cleaned off with files and sandpaper.

I also very often use a VERY small amount of liquid "cement", carefully placed with either a very fine hypodermic needle (diabetes-style) or a Touch-n-Flow applicator. It's not a method for the timid, because the stuff DOES actually "weld" parts together, and too much can make parts difficult to get apart.

I also rely on plain old rubber cement for assembling engines and the like. It works well for broad flat surfaces like cylinder heads to blocks, and manifolds, timing covers, bellhousings, etc. It's re-positionable and comes off very easily when it's time for final assembly. A drop also works well for keeping tires from rolling away while stance and ride height are determined during the mockup phase.

 

Mainly Elmer's, but I've also done "all of the above" at various times.

[Foxer]

I've never used Elmers white glue because of the long drying time and there is no initial stickiness which is a requisite for me in a temp glue. How do you guys make it work for you?

[Mark]

I've never used Elmers white glue because of the long drying time and there is no initial stickiness which is a requisite for me in a temp glue. How do you guys make it work for you?

I apply it and let it thicken a bit before putting the pieces together.  When I'm applying temporary glue, I don't do it with the intention of handling those parts again until the next day so drying time isn't an issue.

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Many thanks for the nuggets.

Much appreciate it.

[Pete J.]

I haven't tried this but you mentioned one of the downfalls of Elmer's that was mentioned was the lack of initial tack.  I have used a different PVA for years and that is Pacer's formula 560.  It is a glue that was developed for R/C aircraft canopies.  I use is because it is very much like the other PVA's that you mentioned except it has a high initial tackyness.  I am definitely going to try it.  It is also very good for clear parts(no fogging) and also things you have to stick on painted surfaces like PE logos, mirrors and trim pieces.  

[StevenGuthmiller]

Try one of the UV setting glues like "Laser Bond".

Not only is it easy to remove from bare plastic with just a flick of a finger nail, but it sets in seconds with UV light.

You really need to try it for mock up.

Nothing works better in my opinion.

 

Steve

[aurfalien]

Try one of the UV setting glues like "Laser Bond".

Not only is it easy to remove from bare plastic with just a flick of a finger nail, but it sets in seconds with UV light.

You really need to try it for mock up.

Nothing works better in my opinion.

 

Steve

Hmmm, wow sounds cool.

I'll try it!

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Ive been using Scotch removable double sided tape. it dosent work for every type of mockup, but you can cut small pieces the size of

your part to temporarily hold it in place. Ive also used just about everything mentioned here: had no luck w/white glue, tried Testors 

window glue and found the residue difficult to remove. Sometimes I'll just use a blob of Bostik Blu-Tack.

By the way the Scotch double sided tape is great when you are trying to make identical parts from sheet styrene, use it to hold two pieces 

together and cut them out at once    or make a copy of a finished part by using the tape to hold it down to another sheet, rough cut

it out and cut sand or even drill holes to match the original 

[Foxer]

Try one of the UV setting glues like "Laser Bond".

Not only is it easy to remove from bare plastic with just a flick of a finger nail, but it sets in seconds with UV light.

You really need to try it for mock up.

Nothing works better in my opinion.

 

Steve

oh yes!

[my66s55]

I use Aleene's Tacky Glue. The quick dry sets fast and is easy to disassemble the parts. It just peels off the part also. 

[Tesla]

Here's another option...poster putty