Motor City Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 I was wondering if anyone makes a correct interior for the 1966 Wildcat. As some of you know, all versions used the 1965 interior. The 1966 interior should have had the thin-shell bucket seats with small Wildcat logos on the seat backs front and rear, a different dashboard, and different side panels.
Can-Con Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 The original AMT '66 annual used the '65 interior so if a correct '66 interior exists, someone would have to master it and cast it in resin.I've never heard of one being done in Resin and believe none exists.
Ron Hamilton Posted March 4, 2017 Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I was wondering if anyone makes a correct interior for the 1966 Wildcat. As some of you know, all versions used the 1965 interior. The 1966 interior should have had the thin-shell bucket seats with small Wildcat logos on the seat backs front and rear, a different dashboard, and different side panels. I plan to do one someday. Edited March 4, 2017 by Ron Hamilton
Bob Ellis Posted March 6, 2017 Posted March 6, 2017 Ron, You are correct the amt 66 Wildcat dash isn't even close to being correct. I never realized that.
Ron Hamilton Posted March 6, 2017 Posted March 6, 2017 Ron, You are correct the amt 66 Wildcat dash isn't even close to being correct. I never realized that.Basically, the whole interior would have to be scratchbuilt. I would cut up the tub to remove the side panels to "re-upholster" it, and start with at least half of a Chevy dash to get a linear speedometer. A set of proper strato bucket seats should not be too difficult to find, but everything but the floor would have to be re-done.
Mark Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 While you are at it, the interior sides can be made more vertical to eliminate the tool "draft" that all one-piece interior buckets have. The convertible top mechanism bulges on the side panels can also be eliminated, and the rear seat widened. Too, I'd check the interior/body/chassis fit to see if the interior can be made taller. Sometimes the interior floor is molded thicker than it really needs to be; replacing the molded part with thinner material adds to the interior depth. I did that on a Corvair interior on a recent project (used the top of the chassis as the interior floor, and stood the side panels up perpendicular to the floor). That kit's interior is shallow and leaves a huge space in the assembled model between the bottom of the interior bucket and the top of the chassis. Just standing the interior sides up straight to eliminate the taper can make the interior look way deeper.
Motor City Posted March 7, 2017 Author Posted March 7, 2017 I wonder if the Aishoma? (Japanese) 1/24 kit has the correct interior.
Mark Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 I wonder if the Aishoma? (Japanese) 1/24 kit has the correct interior. Those kits use one of a couple of generic interiors, with decals for the instrument panel. Chassis are generic too. The kits were based on slot car bodies; the bodies themselves were cribbed from promotional models and are pretty decent but the rest leaves much to be desired.
Ron Hamilton Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 While you are at it, the interior sides can be made more vertical to eliminate the tool "draft" that all one-piece interior buckets have. The convertible top mechanism bulges on the side panels can also be eliminated, and the rear seat widened. Too, I'd check the interior/body/chassis fit to see if the interior can be made taller. Sometimes the interior floor is molded thicker than it really needs to be; replacing the molded part with thinner material adds to the interior depth. I did that on a Corvair interior on a recent project (used the top of the chassis as the interior floor, and stood the side panels up perpendicular to the floor). That kit's interior is shallow and leaves a huge space in the assembled model between the bottom of the interior bucket and the top of the chassis. Just standing the interior sides up straight to eliminate the taper can make the interior look way deeper. If it were me, I would use an AMT latest tool '67 Chevy SS427 for the chassis, under hood area, interior floor, and basic interior pieces to start, along with the drivetrain, wheels, and steering wheel from the AMT latest tool '66 Riviera GS. Of course a lot of research, and a little skill, plastic sheet and rods, and putty to get it pretty much together. I want to do a '66 Wildcat GS Convertible in the near future. Of course I have a lot of projects ahead of this one, but I have '65 Wildcat ready for primer and paint, so it may get moved ahead to later this year if I can get some paint on it.
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