Testors Lincoln Mint Harley-Davidson Road King Classic WIP

[THarrison351]

This is a WIP on the Testors Lincoln Mint Harley-Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic. I won't be doing anymore than some simple detail painting and a change to the throttle cables. Mostly it will be clarifying the steps in the instructions, The bad news is even though this is a sealed kit, it is missing one key visible part which I'll have to purchase. I'll get to that at the bottom of the post. This post is photo intense.

Here is the box, instructions, and parts as opened. Also, if you plan to strip the chrome, all will strip like normal except the motor. It it actually hard chrome plated and the best you will do is remove the black paint or melt the plastic inside

The metal and rubber parts under the upper box.

The Shiny stuff. The side covers being plastic, were painted with different paint that has less gloss and finer metallic particles.

I cleared the side covers with Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze that I had handy and it put on a super shine. More pictures of that later

This was missing in the first two kits I built and both tanks suffered scratches. Don't know why someone would remove it, or if this kit was a later addition after complaints from damage to the tanks.

These are the black sprues out of the bags.

The screws. My suggestion is to separate them into baggies or containers of your choice. Just remember, the course screws thread into plastic and the others (machine) into metal. Also, a good number 1 phillips screwdriver and drill bits are some times necessary to clean up or finish holes. Don't lose any screws, there are no extra.

Step one and two. Parts needed and pretty easy, There is no need for glue in step one. I had to clean up the pins for the cam? cover (part 6) to fit it to the crank case.

Just a note, the instructions in step 2 show the link and the spring reversed from where they need to be. Also, after the motor was completed and I was reviewing the pictures, I realized the rod is on the wrong side of the links. Too late to fix mine.

I used medium super glue with an accelerator to attach shifter (part 12) to arm (part 10). I also super glued the spring to its attachment post, In some of the instruction pictures, you can see they used a screw. there is no hole, only a post. No idea why it was changed. See, the link is on the wrong side. it should face away.

Step 3 is simple gluing and I used a liquid bonder after scraping paint and chrome,

Step 4 is screw the tranny and motor together. I had to use a number 0 phillips because the hole for the screw was deep and narrow. 

Step 5 you start to use pre-cut tubing. I was missing one of the A length tubes, but they give a D length tube which doesn't attach to anything or go anywhere. So I cut that to length. Super glued the tubes in the sparkplugs and I painted the head bolts silver. Also, the area where these go should be flat black, even though the the case and cylinders were plated and painted.

Step 6 I believe these are for the oil tank and will get tucked beside the right side cover and as I said before, no need for tube D.

Step 7 scrape and glue. I used super glue on the rocker cover. Good luck scraping the head.

Step 8 scrape and glue

Step 9 is where I found out I was missing a vital visual part. When Testors manufactured these kits years ago. Several parts would receive special attention. One of them was the air cleaner cover. 

After plating, it was removed and would receive a tampo printing and be placed in a separate bag. Someone forgot to put mine back in the box. Kit is long out of production, so I don't think Testors has any lying around. I'm going to look for a broken kit on eBay to replace it. I can finish building everything and add it later once I get a replacement

 

Edited August 1, 2017 by THarrison351
Photoshop removed pictures, so I've replaced them

[THarrison351]

I'm changing the pace. I will show hints as as needed. Otherwise only as steps as completed.

Step 9

The oil cap (part number 30) does not fit as shown it goes like this:

Step 10

The top mount (part number 35) is flipped backwards, if you install it as shown, it will be too far to mount to the frame.

Step 11

You need to go ahead and install the left side cover (part number 37L) in the left frame (part number 51) otherwise there are no prompts

Apparently I did not take a picture of the fender and swing-arm mounted to the frame, but you will see them in later photos.

Step 12

Step 13

Step 14

Step 15

Step 16

Step 17

The amber reflectors? (part number 156) when mounted to the frame look better with a shinny silver back ground. Paint, BMF or like I did, scrape the paint.

Step 18

Step 19

This part (Part number 56) will try your patience. Both of my kits these parts required filing and drilling to get this to fit.

Step 20

Step 21

Step 22

Step 23

Step 24

Both sides

Step 25

Step 26

Step 27

Step 28

No picture

Step 29

The placement of the tubes or cables as they portray is kind of bogus. 

G is the clutch cable and goes through part number 86 up between the frame and crash bar to the left hand grip lever, not the bottom of the grip as shown.

 

E1 and E2 are the front brake hoses and would merge together behind the headlamp into one hose before coming out under the triple tree handle bar mount and going into the right hand grip lever master cylinder. I bring the left side hose up, cut it short and super glue it under the handle bar mount. The throttle cables, which they are using F1 and F2, come from the foot pedal master cylinder. pass through the same way the brake hose do under the handle bars and go the the throttle. I added some bent pieces of wire to my throttle cables. I did leave the tubes too long.

Now its up on two wheels. More to come.

 

 

Edited August 2, 2017 by THarrison351
Photoshop removed pictures, so I've replaced them

[THarrison351]

Step 30

Step 31

Step 32

Step 33

Step 34

Step 35

Step 36

Step 37

Step 38

Step 39

Step 40, 41, and Final Step 42 and I messed up the stand offs (part 126L and R) on mine. They are upside down, so the mirrors are too close to the grips. The super glue was set in the mirrors and I was afraid I might break them, so they will just stay like they are.

 

Edited August 2, 2017 by THarrison351
Photoshop removed pictures, so I've replaced them

[peteski]

Really nice job!  But one thing bugs the heck out of me - the  orientation of the lenses in the driving lights!  Especially on a large-scale model this stands out like a sore thumb (at least to me).  The headlight is correct but the striations in the driving light lenses should be vertical (like in the headlight).  They are 90 degrees off. If they were keyed then the factory screwed up.

[THarrison351]

Thanks ! Yes, you are correct. The driving light lens are 90 degrees off. It bugs me too. I thought about cutting the pin off the back. That will let it rotate. Once it's done, I'm committed. My biggest fear is the hole behind will really become obvious. The lenses are held on with water soluble glue, so it can be done. I don't know who designed these kits. They did so many things really nice and really screwed up some other things really bad. I hope the dies aren't lost somewhere in China. I'd really like to see these revised again with updates.

[krow113]

Pretty sure that no lines or cables emanate from the rear master cylinder reservoir cap . Those would just be phillips  flathead screws.

Def some wiring/ cabling issues in the instructions.

[PorkChopPaws]

Nice work. What does a kit like that cost if you don't mind me asking?

 

[peteski]

Thanks ! Yes, you are correct. The driving light lens are 90 degrees off. It bugs me too. I thought about cutting the pin off the back. That will let it rotate. Once it's done, I'm committed. My biggest fear is the hole behind will really become obvious. The lenses are held on with water soluble glue, so it can be done. I don't know who designed these kits. They did so many things really nice and really screwed up some other things really bad. I hope the dies aren't lost somewhere in China. I'd really like to see these revised again with updates.

So the lenses have keyed center-posts which force you to position them incorrectly?  That is pretty poor research on the designer's end.

As far as the master cylinder goes, Steve is correct. No lines or wires should come out of the cover. But the master cylinder's lower part would have a brake fluid line going to the rear brake and also a wire coming from the brake light switch.

[THarrison351]

Nice work. What does a kit like that cost if you don't mind me asking?

 

My two "Open but complete kits", the black Electra Glide and the red and silver Road King were around $50 on eBay plus shipping. Shipping varies from $16 to 30 depending on the seller. I had to wait patiently because some people are willing to bid crazy money on these kits. Over $100 bids on the Electra Glide many times. My silver Road king Classic was sealed and I got lucky at $60 because it ended in the daytime. Sadly. that was the one missing an important part, the air filter cover. Right now, there is a Road King on eBay for $66 plus $25 shipping. It's sealed and has no bidders. Another interesting tidbit of information. Many of these kits have stickers from when they were donated to hospitalized veterans. Two of mine have these stickers.

So the lenses have keyed center-posts which force you to position them incorrectly?  That is pretty poor research on the designer's end.

As far as the master cylinder goes, Steve is correct. No lines or wires should come out of the cover. But the master cylinder's lower part would have a brake fluid line going to the rear brake and also a wire coming from the brake light switch.

You're both right about the master cylinder. The hoses should not come out of the top. I was lazy and you can hardly see it once everything is done. Oddly, these are what are hooked to the throttle per the instructions.

 

[PorkChopPaws]

Thanks for the info. Well worth the price IMHO.

[Apriliadan]

It looks great.

my fuel tank was pretty banged up, that was really the only set back.

The screws, what a mess there, I found tapping them was the cure all for that.

The lines, how wrong could it have been, the rear brake runs into the tranny, no lie I had to get help just making fun of Harley over this technology, "fly by wire braking" who would ever had thought. Right front brake to right lever, left front brake to the left lever. Fuel line to nowhere, this is all very easy to fix, and not worth bashing testors over, the screws, that's another issue.

Another thing that I messed with 1 time, the metal to metal joints can be one and done, I can't stress enough that before the welding of these parts be absolutely sure that they are what you want.

The thing looks amazing when done.

[krow113]

Some clarification:

- Throttle cables will go to a wheel on the top of the fuel injection throttle body. They are push/pull configuration. They enter at the front right side of the gas tank , between the frame and tank.

- Rear brake line goes under the tranny , not to it , and joins the front line from the foot pedal master cylinder , with the brake light switch as the joiner , under the tranny. The line from the master cylinder should come from the bottom front of the MC.

- Clutch cable goes between the fork leg and the frame , down the left frame tube , then to the lower front right of the tranny case , there should be a fitting there.

The corrugated sleeve should be at the top of the frame tube, the cable parallel to the frame tube , this is the cover for the clutch cable adjuster.

- Front brake line emanates from the handlebar master cylinder , goes under the bottom triple tree and joins the lower line there , and on to the caliper.The brake switch is integral with the lever perch /switch housing on the handlebar.

- The actual routing and sizes , textures etc of the lines and cables are all different and need to be researched on the real machine as it is important for the final look of the model.

- The cable/hose supplied in the model is of a generic type and barely replicates the real thing.

- A single copper wire inserted into the line/cable hose is required to get the routing to look realistic. Giant arcs of improper material sprouting from incorrect areas is a real good reason things don't look proper.

- Google the bikes , Harley provides some good pics of the stockers for this kind of research.

Edited April 18, 2017 by krow113

[THarrison351]

 

my fuel tank was pretty banged up, that was really the only set back.

 

My first two kits which were purchased opened, had some damage to the tank. It's no surprise given the weight and the the way shippers handle boxes. If you look at my seventh picture down, this kit which was sealed, came with a vacuum-formed tray to secure the tank. Not sure if this was a later kit and this was a result of complaints from the prior packing damage.

[THarrison351]

Some clarification:

- Throttle cables will go to a wheel on the top of the fuel injection throttle body. They are push/pull configuration. They enter at the front right side of the gas tank , between the frame and tank.

- Rear brake line goes under the tranny , not to it , and joins the front line from the foot pedal master cylinder , with the brake light switch as the joiner , under the tranny. The line from the master cylinder should come from the bottom front of the MC.

- Clutch cable goes between the fork leg and the frame , down the left frame tube , then to the lower front right of the tranny case , there should be a fitting there.

The corrugated sleeve should be at the top of the frame tube, the cable parallel to the frame tube , this is the cover for the clutch cable adjuster.

- Front brake line emanates from the handlebar master cylinder , goes under the bottom triple tree and joins the lower line there , and on to the caliper.The brake switch is integral with the lever perch /switch housing on the handlebar.

- The actual routing and sizes , textures etc of the lines and cables are all different and need to be researched on the real machine as it is important for the final look of the model.

- The cable/hose supplied in the model is of a generic type and barely replicates the real thing.

- A single copper wire inserted into the line/cable hose is required to get the routing to look realistic. Giant arcs of improper material sprouting from incorrect areas is a real good reason things don't look proper.

- Google the bikes , Harley provides some good pics of the stockers for this kind of research.

I agree with you. Thank you for some clarification. I looked at some pictures on the interwebs. They are not always clear. I have no experience with Harley Davidsons. My knowledge is based in aircraft and automotive repair. I understand the foot-pedal is for the back brake and the right hand lever is for the front brakes. The left hand lever is for the clutch. Two cables (why two?) come from the right twist throttle and end up eventually on the throttle body between the cylinders. The kit instructions are terrible for hose, wire, cable, etc. routing. I'm not a rivet counter when it comes to building. I just wanted to help give some guidelines with mechanical assembly. The biggest problems are holes that are too small for screws, and this varies, and vagueness to where parts and when parts need to be assembled. This was my intent. I also appreciate any input to help others finish on of these kits.

[krow113]

Two throttle cables are of a push/pull as stated , one cable pulls , the other push's . There should be a round thriottle wheel on the side of the throttle body , the cables go in the top , one on each side of the wheel. The wheel should be on the left side of the throttle body , looking at the bike from the right side.

Google:

Harley Davidson fuel injection throttle body.

[Pete_74]

Hello Harrison,

I am a french model maker, recently registered on this forum, and really interessed by the HD Road King model and all big scale HD kits
(more information in my introduction)
I just watched your work and it is realy nice and good job..
It's difficult by here to find what I like.. Testors Lincoln Mint is a brand unknown in Europe.. don't know why.
I have found recently a kit in the US
I am looking for a Pdf  notice, "directions for use" for this model.
Do you have it? and I will gladly share some information around this subject, if there are any useful tips that I did not understand in your wip ..

Cheers Pete.

[Danny H]

That is a nice build. I have the same kit but mine was missing the tires.  Does anyone know where I can fine a set of tires for it.  I have not started working on mine just because of the tires.

[Nolan]

On 12/1/2024 at 6:53 PM, Danny H said:

That is a nice build. I have the same kit but mine was missing the tires.  Does anyone know where I can fine a set of tires for it.  I have not started working on mine just because of the tires.

Somebody might be able to 3D print tires, I'm experimenting with soft resin printed tires for some 1/12 and 1/9 scale Harleys I want to build.  I've gotten several of the Testors Lincoln Mint 1/9 scale kits from fleabay for cheap that were missing the tires.  I don't know if it's because the boxes have end flaps and the tires are getting lost over the years of storage or if they were just missing from the kits from the start.

 

Keep an eye on fleabay, I see tires and parts for some of the big 1/6 scale Tamiya and Testors kits surface occasionally.  This looks like a tire for one of the 1/6 Tamiya Hondas.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/186636404065

This ebay store (Japan) has parts for the Tamiya 1/6 kits for sale. https://www.ebay.com/str/japanitemstore?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197

My partial success at printing tires and mag wheels for the Revell 1/8 scale Sportster that I'm intermittently working on.  The two tires on the left are from the kit and the other two are my prints.

Nolan