Tamiya extra thin cement

[Dann Tier]

Hi, I was wondering if Tamiya's Extra Thin cement was any good -could it also be used to attach clear parts?  I recently watched some modelling videos on utube, and several different builders used it, but it seemed to not hold very quickly or well -the parts kept falling off as the assembled things. One builder even uses it for clear parts. It doesn't look like it "fogs" the clear parts, but things in person usually looks different than in videos. I currently use RC56 canopy glue for most of my clear parts, but if I can get a glue that dries really fast for my windows, that would be great. Any impute would be greatly appreciated!

[XJ6]

I bought a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement, oh about 7 months ago, I have yet to use it.... just have had no need for it, so sorry can't help you on your question

[martinfan5]

Far as I know you can not use it on clear part, but I really could be wrong, if you want a fast drying clear glue for clear parts, then try this

http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/super_gold.html

Its bascialy CA(super glue) glue for clear parts.

Edited May 1, 2017 by martinfan5

[Dann Tier]

I bought a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement, oh about 7 months ago, I have yet to use it.... just have had no need for it, so sorry can't help you on your question

I too just bought some after watching a utube builder named GDmodels using it. looked like it worked to me, but I needed your guys input before I try it out on clear parts. Thanx for the response

[Dann Tier]

Far as I know you can not use it on clear part, but I really could be wrong, if you want a fast drying clear glue for clear parts, then try this

http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/super_gold.html

Its bascialy CA(super glue) glue for clear parts.

I will definitely check this stuff out!  -Thanx!  -Do you know if this Extra thin has a use, or is it rubbish?

[Xingu]

I use the Tamiya Extra Thin on all of my models. It holds well enough. You can use it to attach clear parts, just need to be careful as it does fog.

[XJ6]

I too just bought some after watching a utube builder named GDmodels using it. looked like it worked to me, but I needed your guys input before I try it out on clear parts. Thanx for the response

That's a Good question, remember now that I had bought it for a Clear Body shell that I have, thinking that Tamiya Extra thin cement would hide the glue lines, any way back to the work bench.

[kitbash1]

Far as I know you can not use it on clear part, but I really could be wrong, if you want a fast drying clear glue for clear parts, then try this

http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/super_gold.html

Its bascialy CA(super glue) glue for clear parts.

I've always used Watch Crystal Cement ( Hypo-Tube cement ) to glue clear parts. This stuff never fogs. But I might try this CA type glue the next time I have to buy glue.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'd advise caution trying to use any CA or solvent-type glue for clear parts. The risk of solvents crazing or CA fogging is just too great in my mind.

I'd rather fixture windows in place and let the PVA (white-glue) based products set up than have to remove buggered clear parts for a re-do...which takes a lot more effort than just walking away from the model while PVA sets up.

[martinfan5]

I'd advise caution trying to use any CA or solvent-type glue for clear parts. The risk of solvents crazing or CA fogging is just too great in my mind.

I'd rather fixture windows in place and let the PVA (white-glue) based products set up than have to remove buggered clear parts for a re-do...which takes a lot more effort than just walking away from the model while PVA sets up.

I have use regular CA glue on clear parts in the past and did not get any fogging, so it is possible, but sure, take caution when always working with clear parts is a good idea.

Per the info from the website

SUPER-GOLD™ and SUPER-GOLD+™ are our odorless INSTA-CURE CAs They are non-frosting and take only 2 or 3 seconds longer to bond. There are no fumes that irritate the nose and eyes. The SUPER-GOLD™’s do not attack white foam; therefore, they can be used in the building of foam core wings and the assembly and repair of plastic and foam ARF’s. They will not fog clear plastic

[Ace-Garageguy]

Per the info from the website...

Thanks !!

I'm always willing to try something that might work better. Fixturing clear parts can be a time consuming chore, and if there's a for-sure way around it, I'm in.

[Pete J.]

Tamiya extra thin is a solvent glue in the same family as Tenex and Weldon.  It fastens plastic together by melting it an then letting it reharden.  It is the same thing that happens when you weld steel.   I would never recommend using it on clear parts. Much too aggressive.

CA's or superglues are another family.  The glue by adhering to both surfaces. They are only as good as the strength of that bond.  It is very much like peanut butter gluing two pieces of bread together.  They work well but the fogging is a result of their interaction with moisture or body oils interacting with the fumes from the glue.  Police use the fumes to enhance finger prints.  Some super glues have a greater tendency to fog than others and the thinner the glue, the higher the likelihood of fogging. There are some that are formulated for clear plastics.  The only one I am familiar with personally is Zap Polizap.  It is for RC car bodies made of lexan.  I have used it successfully on clear plastic for years. 

PVAs or white glues will also hold clear plastics and work just like CA's in that they create an adhesive layer between the parts.  A lot of PVA's also have some serious flexibility. I believe that your RC canopy glue may be an early version of what i use which is Zap formula 560.  I like it because it gets tacky quite quickly and dries dead clear.  

That is my two cents worth.  Hope it helps. 

Edited May 1, 2017 by Pete J.

[afx]

I glue the glass in the windshield frames on my Cobra builds with Testors Liquid Cement.  It can be risky but gives a much stranger bond that I can get with any other adhesives.  I flow it around the frame with a Touch-N-Flow applicator.

[Dann Tier]

Thanx for all the input guys.......it definitely helps!  -much appreciated!!

[Dann Tier]

 

I have use regular CA glue on clear parts in the past and did not get any fogging, so it is possible, but sure, take caution when always working with clear parts is a good idea.

Per the info from the website

Sometimes I use Plsti-Zap CA on clear parts with REALLY good luck too, but all it takes is a tad too much, and it fogs or krazes. I also think the parts have to be TOTALLY contacting for the CA to NOT have an adverse reaction.

[espo]

I have used the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and have been less than thrilled with the results. I wouldn't buy it again for all the reasons mentioned by others. For a majority of my assemblies I use Model Master Liquid Cement and sometimes Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ when needed. Windows I have been using Aleene's Jewel-It that I purchased at a fabric shop. Someone else on this Forum recommended it and I have been using it ever since. Of course there are many other options that other members have tried and they may be worth trying also.  

[BigTallDad]

Were your clear plastic parts attached to a sprue? If so, test the cement on the sprue and see for yourself.

[1972coronet]

I've never used Tamiya Extra Thin cement for 'glass' applications , but I have used it on many other assemblies . It works great for clamped-together parts ( think : engine block halves ) , which is what I believe its primary use is for ( look at the illustration on the bottle's label : aircraft hull halves , banded-together ) . 

I've used Clear RTV Silicone for windscreen and backlight installations ; works especially great for windscreens on convertible vehicles .

[Rodent]

I've never used Tamiya Extra Thin cement for 'glass' applications , but I have used it on many other assemblies . It works great for clamped-together parts ( think : engine block halves ) , which is what I believe its primary use is for ( look at the illustration on the bottle's label : aircraft hull halves , banded-together ) . 

I've used Clear RTV Silicone for windscreen and backlight installations ; works especially great for windscreens on convertible vehicles .

John, that is an interesting idea with the RTV. I will have to try it!

[1972coronet]

John, that is an interesting idea with the RTV. I will have to try it!

I got the idea some 13-14 years ago when I was building the then-new (okay , newly-retooled) Nash Bridges 1971 Hemi'Cuda Convertible . I thought , How in th heck am I going to get this windscreen in its place without using super glue ---- then it hit me ! I used a toothpick to dab a few 'points' along the windscreen channel , then carefully installed the 'glass' ; I taped it in place with blue painters' tape . Afterward , I foiled the windscreen frame (also , thereby , avoiding the wrinkles --- the 'screen acted as a brace) .

Let me know how the silicone works for you !

[ZTony8]

I've used the Tamiya Extra Thin cement in several situations. It's good for some basic parts attaching but I think it's TOO thin for many situations. Don't use it to attach painted parts together-it will seep out and ruin the finish. Yes, it's happened to me. I think it might work for attaching windows if you clamp the parts first and apply the glue sparingly to surfaces as far as possible from the visible area of the windows.

You might want to try the Tamiya Thick cement.I find that it works better for most situations.

[unclescott58]

I've always used Watch Crystal Cement ( Hypo-Tube cement ) to glue clear parts. This stuff never fogs. But I might try this CA type glue the next time I have to buy glue.

I tried a tube of the Hypo Watch Crystal Cement. It came with a thin wire built into the cap that went into the tube itself. When I went to put the cap back on the tube, I could not get that little wire back into the little hole it came out of! For that reason I was unable to use the stuff. Recently I've been using that Bondic UV setting glue. It's clear and does not effect clear plastic in any negative way that I've seen so far. At the same time, I still like Testors Model Master Cear Parts Cement. Been using that stuff for what? Twenty or thirty years now? With no problems.

The Tamiya Extra Thin Cement? I only use that in early pre-paint subassembly work. Like other Tamiya products, I've been very happy with the stuff. But, have never used it on clear parts because of my experience with other similar cements in those applications.

Last, I've heard, but never tried, dipping clear parts in something like Future floor polish before gluing. I've heard that if you do that, you can use "regular" model cement with clear parts. And the cement will not fog the clean parts then. I haven't tried this. So I don't know if it's true. I curious what others know about this?

Scott

 

[kitbash1]

I tried a tube of the Hypo Watch Crystal Cement. It came with a thin wire built into the cap that went into the tube itself. When I went to put the cap back on the tube, I could not get that little wire back into the little hole it came out of! For that reason I was unable to use the stuff. Recently I've been using that Bondic UV setting glue. It's clear and does not effect clear plastic in any negative way that I've seen so far. At the same time, I still like Testors Model Master Cear Parts Cement. Been using that stuff for what? Twenty or thirty years now? With no problems.

The Tamiya Extra Thin Cement? I only use that in early pre-paint subassembly work. Like other Tamiya products, I've been very happy with the stuff. But, have never used it on clear parts because of my experience with other similar cements in those applications.

Last, I've heard, but never tried, dipping clear parts in something like Future floor polish before gluing. I've heard that if you do that, you can use "regular" model cement with clear parts. And the cement will not fog the clean parts then. I haven't tried this. So I don't know if it's true. I curious what others know about this?

Scott

 

I have never had any problems with the Hypo cement. Maybe you left the top off for to long. 

[Funkychiken]

I use the thin Tamiya glue all the time, but never for clear parts.

When you do use it, you add a little bit close to where you want it, and it draws into the joint. Be careful that it doesn't get drawn into areas that you don't want it to go. It follows a path, there is no other control. Good luck!