How to protect lacquer paint?

[Yohan]

I painted my model car with some cheapy model masters lacquer paint. But i want to protect my paint job with a clear coat/gloss/idk and i dont know how or what to use. I saw some krylon clear gloss at michaels but it said it was acrylic, and i dont know if thats safe to use with it. So how would you guys recomend i protect my lacquer paint job? Also do i have to sand the paint before putting any clearcoat/gloss/wax/sealer/idk/etc on it?

Any help is much appreciated!

[Ace-Garageguy]

I painted my model car with some cheapy model masters lacquer paint...

Depending on what exact "model masters" paint you used, it may not need a clear topcoat, or it may be designed to be topcoated with Testors Model Master clear lacquer.

There are several different Testors "Model Master" lacquers, so to give you an accurate answer, we need to know exactly what you used.

 

[Yohan]

Depending on what exact "model masters" paint you used, it may not need a clear topcoat, or it may be designed to be topcoated with Testors Model Master clear lacquer.

There are several different Testors "Model Master" lacquers, so to give you an accurate answer, we need to know exactly what you used.

 

It was this kind.

[Longbox55]

That particular line is a base/clear system, just like their 1:1 counterparts. They have a clear in that line, plus the clear from their One Coat also works well.

[Ace-Garageguy]

That one is specifically designed to be topcoated with one of Testors clear lacquers.

Because it's a metallic, you don't want to sand it prior to clearing, because there's a risk you'll make blotches in the metallic particles.

If you have orange peel or trash in the plum basecoat, and you want to get it out (clear will only exaggerate any problems, not hide them), you MUST respray an even coat of metallic after you sand.

I personally recommend the Testor's "Wet Look" clear lacquer for your topcoat.

Done right, you can expect results like this.

[yh70]

i just sprayed some model masters black lacquer ..and clear coated it with model masters clear lacquer...

[MrObsessive]

To further express what Bill said..........in the event you need to repaint metallics, you'll want to swill the jar (airbrushing) or the spray can every so often to keep the metallic particles suspended in the paint. That way, you won't get a "rush" of metallic flakes on your paint job all at once in the event you need to stop for a bit, because the flakes have settled to the bottom of the jar or can.

Hope this helps!

[StevenGuthmiller]

First question would be, how does it look?

If it is acceptable to you as is, if it looks like you want it to, You may not need to do anything.

If it looks shiny and smooth enough for you & you're not going to do a bunch of polishing on it, there's no need for a clear coat.

While I usually use an abundance of color & clear coats, I always say "less is best".

Don't mess with a good thing.

 

Steve

[jaymcminn]

First question would be, how does it look?

If it is acceptable to you as is, if it looks like you want it to, You may not need to do anything.

If it looks shiny and smooth enough for you & you're not going to do a bunch of polishing on it, there's no need for a clear coat.

While I usually use an abundance of color & clear coats, I always say "less is best".

Don't mess with a good thing.

 

Steve

Except that the Custom Lacquer paints NEED a clear coat for gloss and protection. They dry to a semi-matte finish and the paint itself is very soft and prone to scratching/chipping until they're clear coated. Either the Testors Gloss Lacquer Clearcoat or the One Coat Clear are great choices for a topcoat here... I've never had any problems using these clears over custom Lacquer basecoats.

[High octane]

Tamiya TS-13 Clear works well with Testors Lacquers also.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Except that the Custom Lacquer paints NEED a clear coat for gloss and protection. They dry to a semi-matte finish and the paint itself is very soft and prone to scratching/chipping until they're clear coated. Either the Testors Gloss Lacquer Clearcoat or the One Coat Clear are great choices for a topcoat here... I've never had any problems using these clears over custom Lacquer basecoats.

I don't use a lot of the Testors paints any more in general because I've had problems with them, but most other lacquers are just as tough as the clear you put over them, at least in my experience.

Granted, most base coat/ clear coat lacquers will not give you much of a shine without a clear coat, but I've had plenty of them that went without clear coats & look just fine.

That's why I suggested to the OP that if it looks good as is, I would personally leave it alone.

This '65 Impala was painted with an automotive lacquer more than 20 years ago, was never clear coated & looks as good today as the day that I painted it.

 

Steve

 

 

[BigTallDad]

Protecting from what? Do you have grand kids that will be zooming it across the floor?

If it is sitting on a shelf, perhaps in a case, why bother?

[Longbox55]

Tamiya TS-13 Clear works well with Testors Lacquers also.

Yes, it does. I've used the Tamiya on the Testors a few time myself. Duplicolor Paint Shop and Perfect Match clears also work very well with both Tamiya and Testors lacquers.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The product in question is SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AND INTENDED TO BE CLEARCOATED WITH A COMPATIBLE TESTORS PRODUCT.

The VAST majority of paint-related problems with models or real finishes occur when the users fail to read or simply disregard the factory recommended procedures.

I've seen it hundreds of times in the real-car world and right here on this board, and it continues unabated.

Testors metallics in the "Custom Lacquer System" require a clear topcoat to achieve the gloss and permanence that's designed in.

Telling the OP to not bother following the instructions is fine...IF YOU'VE USED THIS SPECIFIC MATERIAL YOURSELF AND KNOW BEYOND DOUBT WHAT WORKS...as several posters obviously do, with the Tamiya TS-13 reference (etc) above.

I have USED the Testors base-clear system, and it works beautifully if you use it the way Testors recommends.

Automotive lacquers ARE NOT the same as Testors base-clear model paints, and similarities drawn between the two can lead to erroneous assumptions.

Edited May 30, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[Yohan]

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

 

Okay I have finished painting it, and I will say that it looks amazing. But it's chipping horribly!! Not on its own! But if something so much as lightly scratches it, it takes the paint with it and leaves a terrible little mark. Do I need to get some of the model masters clearcoat!? Or is  the paintjob already toast!? Oh god! My babies dying!! Somebody help me!!

[Yohan]

OK after reading this thread again, I have decided to try clear coating it.

[Snake45]

The product in question is SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AND INTENDED TO BE CLEARCOATED WITH A COMPATIBLE TESTORS PRODUCT.

The VAST majority of paint-related problems with models or real finishes occur when the users fail to read or simply disregard the factory recommended procedures.

I've seen it hundreds of times in the real-car world and right here on this board, and it continues unabated.

Testors metallics in the "Custom Lacquer System" require a clear topcoat to achieve the gloss and permanence that's designed in.

Telling the OP to not bother following the instructions is fine...IF YOU'VE USED THIS SPECIFIC MATERIAL YOURSELF AND KNOW BEYOND DOUBT WHAT WORKS...as several posters obviously do, with the Tamiya TS-13 reference (etc) above.

I have USED the Testors base-clear system, and it works beautifully if you use it the way Testors recommends.

Automotive lacquers ARE NOT the same as Testors base-clear model paints, and similarities drawn between the two can lead to erroneous assumptions.

+1 on all that.

[StevenGuthmiller]

OK after reading this thread again, I have decided to try clear coating it.

I agree, if it needs clear coating, use a compatible clear coat.

I would recommend Testors "Wet Look" clear.

 

Steve

[Draggon]

If you have an airbrush, I would recommend the Testors Aztec acrylic clear. It dries rock hard, polishes great, and doesn't have the "super extra dipped in gloss" look that some of the spray can clears do. 

[Jantrix]

I agree with Bill about using recommended topcoats. But, just FYI, you can put an acrylic topcoat over ANY sort of paint.

[Ace-Garageguy]

And another word on non-Testors-specified clears...

Experimentation is GREAT. Many of us have found things that work BETTER than the recommended products and materials and procedures, BUT...if you're going to try something that's not recommended by the manufacturer of the product you're using, TRY YOUR EXPERIMENTS ON SPOONS OR JUNK BODIES OR SODA BOTTLES...NOT ON A MODEL YOU CARE ABOUT.

 

[Snake45]

If you have an airbrush, I would recommend the Testors Aztec acrylic clear. It dries rock hard, polishes great, and doesn't have the "super extra dipped in gloss" look that some of the spray can clears do.

Interesting. I might try it sometime. But does rubbing alcohol or ammonia take it off?

For a clearcoat, my favorite is Model Master Clear Top Coat enamel, airbrushed. BUT I only use it on colors where its yellow tint won't bother me in the future--no whites, silvers, etc. It's great on reds, greens, medium and darker blues, and so forth.

[Longbox55]

The product in question is SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AND INTENDED TO BE CLEARCOATED WITH A COMPATIBLE TESTORS PRODUCT.

The VAST majority of paint-related problems with models or real finishes occur when the users fail to read or simply disregard the factory recommended procedures.

I've seen it hundreds of times in the real-car world and right here on this board, and it continues unabated.

Testors metallics in the "Custom Lacquer System" require a clear topcoat to achieve the gloss and permanence that's designed in.

Telling the OP to not bother following the instructions is fine...IF YOU'VE USED THIS SPECIFIC MATERIAL YOURSELF AND KNOW BEYOND DOUBT WHAT WORKS...as several posters obviously do, with the Tamiya TS-13 reference (etc) above.

I have USED the Testors base-clear system, and it works beautifully if you use it the way Testors recommends.

Automotive lacquers ARE NOT the same as Testors base-clear model paints, and similarities drawn between the two can lead to erroneous assumptions.

I do agree with you 100%. Staying within a system of known compatible products is the best way to avoid problems, especially if you're fairly new to the painting process.

[Snake45]

 Staying within a system of known compatible products is the best way to avoid problems, especially if you're fairly new to the painting process.

 

I agree, but sometimes you know particular products are compatible because you've experimented with them. Never be afraid to try something new--just not on a model that's important to you the first time!

[Art Anderson]

Not to make a mountain out of a molehill here, but sounds as though you've missed a VERY important step here, that being surface-preparation, I have NEVER had either Modelmaster or Tamiya lacquers chip whatsoever.  If the color coat is chipping or "flakng" off the surface of your model, then that IS due to either no, or unsufficient surface preparation--the most common contaminant there comes from your fingers--skin oil:  We, all of us, each and every one us has natural oils on our skin--that (it's what keeps your skin from cracking and splitting.

Solution?  Thoroughly washing both your hands, AND your model body shell with SOAP and water, before you paint, and in between each succeeding coat of paint or clear lacquer.

These two lacquers, formulated for use on polystyrene plastic, are very reminiscent of the old AMT lacquers of 45-50 years ago.  They are what are called "non-penetrating lacquers" in that the solvents used in their manufacture do not "penetrate" polystyrene, which is the solvent actually attacking the plastic surface, causing anywhere from light "frosting" to serious crazing.  Neither of the two brands in common use today will do that, in my experience (and neither die those AMT lacquers of over a generation ago.   However, succeeding coats of these lacquers will "penetrate" the previous coats, making a very secure bond between coats of paint/clear coat (but again, surface prep is a must--wash with water and soap.  (for soap, I keep worn-down pieces of the same DIAL soap I shower with right at my sink.  I simply use an old, worn out toothbrush wet with hot water and then "scrubbed" on the soap, to gently scrub down my work before painting.  If I am applying subsequent coats of paint (and this applies to all my paint jobs, be they lacquers or enamels) I repeat this washing step before each additional coat of paint.

This has never failed me, and that goes way back into the 1960's.

Art