Pre-"Drilled" Distributors

[Straightliner59]

I mentioned this in the thread for my 1975 NHRA Modified Production '70 Malibu. It's a quick and easy way to make pre-wired distributors using readily available, and fairly inexpensive supplies. Begin by assembling the tools and supplies required (chefs call it mise en place). The first photo shows what you'll need. I got my mold putty through Amazon. It's made by Alumilite, so it's likely that Hobby Lobby has it, as well. You'll also need acrylic nail sculpting compound. It's a two-part system that is available from Sally Beauty Supplies, or, the Kiss brand is available in Walmart (at least those with larger cosmetic sections). The rest is stuff you likely have on-hand. Items include X-Acto knife, tweezers, sanding board or sandpaper, phone wire (or equivalent sized vinyl tubing), your choice of scale plug wire, a dropper for the acrylic liquid, a spatula to transfer the acrylic powder, super glue (I prefer a gel type, for this application), and a distributor with pronounced "lug" detail.

Begin by mixing equal parts of the mold putty. A note about the Amazing Mold Putty--it's non-toxic and food safe. That's always a good thing! Once the putty's mixed, press the ball onto a flat working surface, insert the kit distributor, top down, and wait. The putty will cure in 15-20 minutes (to ensure a quicker cure rate, I usually pull a desk lamp down near the mold, to provide a bit of extra warmth to the reaction). Now is a good time to cut the wire insulation into lengths of about .100". You can also cut your plug wires now, too (just be sure to cut them long enough, so that they'll fit your engine of choice.).

Once the mold has cured, remove the kit distributor from the mold, and check the mold for imperfections. Bubbles aren't a problem with this putty, so, your mold should be ready to go. Now, begin inserting the wire insulation into the depressions inside the mold. Be sure they are aligned properly--they should plug right into the holes. Continue until all the holes are "plugged".

Next, draw a small amount of acrylic liquid into a pipette or dropper, and flow it down the inside edge of the mold, until it covers the bottom of the mold. Follow the liquid with a small amount of acrylic powder. Repeat this process until the mold is topped off. Wait...the acrylic resin will cure in a few minutes. Again, the lamp can help to speed the reaction.

Pull the new distributor from the mold and inspect it. If it's satisfactory, grasp the distributor with  pair of tweezers, and work it back and forth across an abrasive surface (sandpaper or a sanding stick), rotating it in the tweezers every few strokes, to keep the bottom level. Once it's sanded flat and smooth on the bottom, the distributor is ready to finish, and add plug wires to.

Paint the cap to represent the brand you want it to be (Accel, Mallory, etc.). When the paint dries, dab the tip of a length of plug wire with super glue, and slip it into the hole in the end of a piece of the wire insulation, which has become the nipples on the cap of the distributor--and they all have a perfectly sized hole for the insertion of the plug wires! Insert all nine plug wires (for a V-8), attach the cap to a distributor base, and mount it to the engine. Now, simply run your plug wires home and you're done!

For a minimal investment in materials and time, you can create a mold that will provide many distributors for wiring, without the difficult and often frustrating task of drilling all those holes without blowing out the side of a distributor, and ruining it, and wasting all the time you spent on it, up to that point. Hope you all find this helpful and informative! Comments and questions are welcome!

 

[bobthehobbyguy]

Great tutorial.  Sure beats trying to drill the holes. Thanks for taking the time to share this.

[iBorg]

Wow......very clever solution to a killer problem.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Very well done tutorial, clearly and concisely explained, well photographed, and an interesting and useful idea.

[BigTallDad]

Very well done tutorial, clearly and concisely explained, well photographed, and an interesting and useful idea.

I agree! Well written and photographed.

Your tutorial addresses the distributor-cap end of the plug wire...here's a method for the plug-end of the wire (hopefully I'm not hijacking the current thread, I'm only trying to dot the i's and cross the t's)

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101815-snug-spark-plug-boots/

 

[crazyjim]

Very clever.  I use a completely different method.  Unforunately, the same method is used by a person who sells his pre-wired distributors and I don't want to take any potential sales away from him.

[Straightliner59]

Thanks, guys. I hope this method comes in handy! Ray, I like the idea of representing spark plugs. They're a frequently overlooked detail that some engines (especially flatheads!) require.

[vamach1]

Just remember to look up the firing order of the engine you are building or you model will not run right.

[blunc]

Just remember to look up the firing order of the engine you are building or you model will not run right.

yeah, and you'll have to re-clock your camshaft if you get plug #1 in the wrong spot. 

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Great tip, very useful

[BigTallDad]

yeah, and you'll have to re-clock your camshaft if you get plug #1 in the wrong spot. 

Huh? I've never heard of that procedure...I'm sure it costs lots of money.

[blunc]

yeah, and you'll have to re-clock your camshaft if you get plug #1 in the wrong spot. 

Huh? I've never heard of that procedure...I'm sure it costs lots of money.

the actual cost is usually dependent on the credit score of the person requesting the Brobdinganianly complex process.   

[ChrisBcritter]

Very interesting method, Daniel! Have you ever had any trouble with those bits of insulation coming loose from the distributor when you remove it from the mold, or when you insert the plug wires?

[Straightliner59]

Very interesting method, Daniel! Have you ever had any trouble with those bits of insulation coming loose from the distributor when you remove it from the mold, or when you insert the plug wires?

Not so far, and I've been using this for many years. The casting material somewhat encases the insulation, holding it securely.

[MeatMan]

Great idea Dan! I'll be giving it a try.

[vintagercr]

That is a great tutorial!

[Styrofoam04]

That is smart! Im gonna give that a try! I have a lot of oyumaru. i'll do a 2 part mold. the tubes will have to be stronger tho

Edited July 5, 2018 by Styrofoam04

[Straightliner59]

I posted this not quite three years ago. I see people asking about wiring distributors/mags, all over the web. This is, absolutely, the best method I have found for doing it. It's inexpensive, simple to do, and avoids the "clump of wires poking out of a tube" look. I've been using this method for decades, and it's been foolproof (if I can't mess it up, neither will you!)...

[NOBLNG]

That IS a great tutorial ! I have run across it before with minimal searching. So far, I have been drilling some resin ones with pretty good success. I think I will try this next time. Do to think Bondic would work in place of resin?

[Straightliner59]

2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

That IS a great tutorial ! I have run across it before with minimal searching. So far, I have been drilling some resin ones with pretty good success. I think I will try this next time. Do to think Bondic would work in place of resin?

It is certainly worth a shot! I think the nail resin would be less expensive, though. On the other hand, it doesn't take much! The best part is: no drilling! Thank you for the kind words, sir.

[ChrisBcritter]

4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

That IS a great tutorial ! I have run across it before with minimal searching. So far, I have been drilling some resin ones with pretty good success. I think I will try this next time. Do to think Bondic would work in place of resin?

You might have three issues. One: In a small cavity mold, it may be difficult to get the UV light in to all areas to cure the Bondic evenly. Two: Bondic doesn't stick well to smooth surfaces; you'd need to rough up the insulation. Three: You'd have to pour it in a few layers to get it to cure completely.

[Straightliner59]

26 minutes ago, ChrisBcritter said:

You might have three issues. One: In a small cavity mold, it may be difficult to get the UV light in to all areas to cure the Bondic evenly. Two: Bondic doesn't stick well to smooth surfaces; you'd need to rough up the insulation. Three: You'd have to pour it in a few layers to get it to cure completely.

I just tried it out. Seemed to work fine, with one shot of resin. I haven't tried to wire it, yet, but, the insulation seems fairly well attached.

[Kent_Frazier]

I'm a new member here with some questions regarding your mold photos. The mold has three "indentations" and one has Sharpie marks. Is this to allow you to cast three distributors at a time? What are the Sharpie marks for? Any recommended source for distributors to make the mold? 

Thanks,

Kent

[Straightliner59]

15 hours ago, Kent_Frazier said:

I'm a new member here with some questions regarding your mold photos. The mold has three "indentations" and one has Sharpie marks. Is this to allow you to cast three distributors at a time? What are the Sharpie marks for? Any recommended source for distributors to make the mold? 

Thanks,

Kent

Well, it allowed me to cast two at a time. The Sharpie was to say, "This one, not so much!"? Right off the top of my head, I couldn't say, specifically. Just look for one that has good, defined posts for the insulation to fit into, and good detail around the perimeter. Maybe AMT's '66 Nova?