Mold lines and imprefections.

[porschercr]

Working on a '68 Revell Dodge Charger R/T 3'N1. I've got two kits, one going to be with the 440, the other the 426 Hemi.

Typical sink marks on the radiator core support, underside of the hood, and various other parts. Both kits.

I'm good as far as sanding or filling those.  However....the body is another story.

Shot in grey primer to bring the ugly areas out.

What is the best way to fix the areas that need work?

Thanks,

Trevor

Edited October 17, 2017 by porschercr
spelling and added text

[Ace-Garageguy]

These can be maddening to correct sometimes, but it's part of the process if you want to improve what's in the box.

The first thing to do is to think through exactly what you want to accomplish. 

I usually use small files to begin, as coarse sandpaper tends to spread the problem by making scratches that then also have to be corrected.

Files cut straight, while unsupported sandpaper will just follow the flaws, rounding them off (if you want to use sandpaper, don't use any coarser than 180 grit, and be sure to use it on a block, so you keep the areas straight).

On body lines, be careful to just remove the parting line and not the body line itself. This takes care and frequent examination of the work to avoid going too far.

Your last photo shows at least 4 things that need to be corrected...one at a time.

1) Use a file to carefully take down the flash sticking up between the cowl panel and the door.

2) The door cut-line at the base of the windshield and the top of the fender needs to be rescribed. I'd use the tip of a razor saw blade, most likely.

3) Then the mold line that's on the body line on the front fender needs to be addressed, either with a file or sandpaper on a block.

4) Finally, there are some areas near the door cut-lines that will probably need to be filled.

You will also find that after you correct an area and re-primer it, you will see something else that may need even more work, or that you just didn't notice previously.

Patience and slow, careful work is the only way to make this stuff look good.

[peteski]

I always try to fix (shave off or sand) as many flaws in the body when it is still unpainted plastic.  That reduces the number of primer/paint coats needed to finish the model (and the thinner the paint is, the more realistic the model will look).

[porschercr]

I always try to fix (shave off or sand) as many flaws in the body when it is still unpainted plastic.  That reduces the number of primer/paint coats needed to finish the model (and the thinner the paint is, the more realistic the model will look).

Understood. I primed it, to better show the flaws for photo purposes.

Edited October 17, 2017 by porschercr

[afx]

Here are is my tool box for dealing with body lines and imperfections. From left-to-right:

• Panel scriber - don't remember the brand
• mechanical pencil with a straight needle in place of lead
• photo-etch saw blades
• #11 exacto blade use the back edge
• razor saw - great for straightening panel lines as Bill describes above
• various shaped mini files
• photo-etch scribing blade - great for opening panels
• flex-i-file sanding stick

 

And a trick I picked up from Bill Coulter for scribing trim lines - a piece of brass flat stock notched to the desires width of the trim.