Making chrome plated wheels to look like aluminum?

[kincer]

I am currently building the new MPC 1/16 scale Firebird T/A and need to know how to make the chrome plated wheels look like cast aluminum? Thanks in advance to all!

[StevenGuthmiller]

A little dull coat will do the trick.

 

 

Steve

[kincer]

Is that a Testors product? I remember that stuff when I was a kid, I never used it but if I recall it was clear.

[M1ks]

Matte varnish will dull the shine, add layers until you're happy with the look. Be sure to let it dry enough between coats to check as the finish will change as it dries.

Other alternative is a bleach dip like below and repaint aluminium.

[High octane]

Ditto as I also use Testors Dull-Cote over plated wheels to make them look like aluminum. This also works for front bumpers and Moon tanks which are never really chrome but made of spun-aluminum.

[kincer]

Thanks alot guys!

[StevenGuthmiller]

Is that a Testors product? I remember that stuff when I was a kid, I never used it but if I recall it was clear.

It is a Testors product & can be purchased either in a rattle can, or a bottle for brushing.

 

 

Steve

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've seen clear and other paints shrink and peel off of chrome, so I've developed an anal-retentive technique to develop an "as cast" texture using one of Testors "metalizers".

I first carefully mask any part of the wheel I want to remain chrome, with a high-quality fine-line tape. Most wheels usually have a polished or machined lip, and only the center is left as-cast.

Then I carefully scrub the part I want to make a cast finish on with Comet (or some other abrasive cleaner) and a stiff brush, which roughens the surface just enough for good adhesion.

Sometimes it's necessary to re-mask, sometimes not.

Then I shoot a fairly wet coat of metalizer, again for good adhesion, and let it flash off completely.

After that, I build up a texture by spraying successive dry coats from farther away. Quit when it looks right. Carefully de-mask.

The FRONT wheel below was done that way as a test more than 5 years ago. Cast center, polished rim.

No pe

Wheels that are supposed to represent fully-machined or die-cast (as opposed to sand-cast) units, I simply strip first, scrub with Comet, and shoot wet coats of metalizer...usually 3.

Let it dry thoroughly and buff. The front wheel below was done that way.

 

[kincer]

Thanks for tips guys, lots of good info.

[peteski]

And because I'm anal, I just want to mention that the "chrome" on plastic parts is actually vacuum-deposited aluminum. It is applied over glossy clear coat and it is only few atoms thick, so it looks like highly polished aluminum (which is a good substitute for chrome).  But also because it is so thin (especially if it is not coated with a layer clear lacquer during manufacturing) it is very fragile, so by rubbing abrasive on it you are risking removing the thin layer of metal, exposing the plastic.

I have used Testors Dullcote for dulling the look of "chrome" and I have never experienced any bad effects.  But there are also water-based satin or flat clears which should be very safe over the "chrome".

[Ace-Garageguy]

And because I'm anal, I just want to mention that the "chrome" on plastic parts is actually vacuum-deposited aluminum. It is applied over glossy clear coat and it is only few atoms thick, so it looks like highly polished aluminum (which is a good substitute for chrome).  But also because it is so thin (especially if it is not coated with a layer clear lacquer during manufacturing) it is very fragile, so by rubbing abrasive on it you are risking removing the thin layer of metal, exposing the plastic.

True, but that makes no difference whatsoever in my experience. (Yours may differ)

The part of the wheel where the "chrome" finish is desired to remain is masked prior to scrubbing.

However, all vacuum-metalized finishes are not created equal. It MAY be possible that poorly-adhered "chrome" will peel off with the tape. I've seen older "chrome" begin to disappear and even flake off some kit parts without having been disturbed.

Few things in life are guaranteed 100% of the time.

 

[peteski]

Actually, I misunderstood your post Bill. Not sure what I was thinking. I thought you were using the abrasive powder to scuff the shiny "chrome" finish to dull it down making it look like cast or brushed aluminum. But now I just re-read your post and you are scuffing the surface for the metalized paint to adhere better.  That makes sense. I also agree that in some rare instances it might be possible that the masking tape might peel up the "chrome" finish.

[Casey]

Strip the chrome plating and the clear undercoat with Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can, then apply Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum...the best for cast look aluminum IMHO. Seriously, yes, in the big spray can.

[kmc3420]

I've seen clear and other paints shrink and peel off of chrome, so I've developed an anal-retentive technique to develop an "as cast" texture using one of Testors "metalizers".

I first carefully mask any part of the wheel I want to remain chrome, with a high-quality fine-line tape. Most wheels usually have a polished or machined lip, and only the center is left as-cast.

Then I carefully scrub the part I want to make a cast finish on with Comet (or some other abrasive cleaner) and a stiff brush, which roughens the surface just enough for good adhesion.

Sometimes it's necessary to re-mask, sometimes not.

Then I shoot a fairly wet coat of metalizer, again for good adhesion, and let it flash off completely.

After that, I build up a texture by spraying successive dry coats from farther away. Quit when it looks right. Carefully de-mask.

The FRONT wheel below was done that way as a test more than 5 years ago. Cast center, polished rim.

No pe

Wheels that are supposed to represent fully-machined or die-cast (as opposed to sand-cast) units, I simply strip first, scrub with Comet, and shoot wet coats of metalizer...usually 3.

Let it dry thoroughly and buff. The front wheel below was done that way.

 

Bill, I assume you are using the non buffing metalizer from model master on the black car above? and the buffing metalizer for the 2nd silver car?

Also are you using the metalizer sealer?

Edited November 14, 2017 by kmc3420

[Ace-Garageguy]

Bill, I assume you are using the non buffing metalizer from model master on the black car above? and the buffing metalizer for the 2nd silver car?

Also are you using the metalizer sealer?

I used the "buffing" product on both of them, actually.

The '32 Ford wheel was sprayed "dry" to build up a texture, but not buffed.

The special Halibrand wheel on Mickey Thompson's Challenger I was shot wet (just on the verge of running, to avoid getting any texture whatsoever) and buffed after being allowed to dry thoroughly.

I usually do NOT use Testors sealer for their metalizers as, in my experience, it ruins whatever effect you've achieved and makes everything just look like silver paint.

The "buffing" products will look good for a long time if you don't get your fingers on them during assembly (use gloves), and if the surface dulls slightly over time, if it's NOT sealed, it will respond to a careful re-buffing.

Just so there's no confusion, the finish I developed for the body in the lower photo is an entirely different process.

 

[kmc3420]

I used the "buffing" product on both of them, actually.

The '32 Ford wheel was sprayed "dry" to build up a texture, but not buffed.

The special Halibrand wheel on Mickey Thompson's Challenger I was shot wet (just on the verge of running, to avoid getting any texture whatsoever) and buffed after being allowed to dry thoroughly.

I usually do NOT use Testors sealer for their metalizers as, in my experience, it ruins whatever effect you've achieved and makes everything just look like silver paint.

The "buffing" products will look good for a long time if you don't get your fingers on them during assembly (use gloves), and if the surface dulls slightly over time, if it's NOT sealed, it will respond to a careful re-buffing.

Just so there's no confusion, the finish I developed for the body in the lower photo is an entirely different process.

 

Thanks Bill. I will attempt to duplicate what you have done on my 68 truck wheels I'm building now. 

[KENNEDYJR]

This is what I use currently for aluminum wheels.

[Deuces]

Those^^^^^turned out really nice.... ☺️

[carmad1957]

Just give em a coat of luster reducer...aka dullcote. Always works for me! 

Probably not the first time this has been mentioned! 

[disabled modeler]

17 hours ago, carmad1957 said:

Just give em a coat of luster reducer...aka dullcote. Always works for me! 

Probably not the first time this has been mentioned! 

Same here.

[wlhowell24]

I've used Magic Eraser to age the chrome.

[Mike C.]

On 11/5/2017 at 12:00 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

A little dull coat will do the trick.

 

 

Steve

Ditto