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Posted

Hi All! Finished this one on the weekend, built from the AMT / Ertl issue of this kit. I didn’t have the courage to try and paint the ‘FORD’ or ‘Galaxie 500’ badges.

Thanks for looking!

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Posted (edited)

Beautiful Pete, a friend of mine taught me a neat little trick for emblems. Foil them before you paint and then buff the paint off the foil, works like a charm, just don't buff through the foil lol. I need to get one of these kits, the same friend built one in Emberglo and it is stunning.

Edited by Geno
Posted

Looks good.  I really like the big cars .

 

And dont be afraid to try the foil before paint trick , Trust me once you do. You will never go back

Posted
2 hours ago, gtx6970 said:

Looks good.  I really like the big cars .

 

And dont be afraid to try the foil before paint trick , Trust me once you do. You will never go back

 

9 hours ago, Geno said:

Beautiful Pete, a friend of mine thought me a neat little trick for emblems. Foil them before you paint and then buff the paint off the foil, works like a charm, just don't buff through the foil lol. I need to get one of these kits, the same friend built one in Emberglo and it is stunning.

I’ve yet to try foiling itself ? but that sounds like a brilliant idea. Thanks everyone.

Posted

Good old '66 Galaxie.

This car looks great in white.

The same for Cragars. 

By the way, this one is a Galaxie 500 7 Litre, so, the side trim on the body is not a chrome part, it's just stamped into the sheetmetal. The only chrome at that place are the 7 Litre emblems on the front fenders. 

Also, the 7 Litre, was a Galaxie 500 with all the appointments of a Galaxie 500 XL, plus the 428 FE as standard equipment. This engine was a super smooth torque machine, but you could ask for the 427 cubic inch, side oiler mill with dual four barrels, and 425 hp. This was the "R" code V8, and it only came with the four speed top loader. The Galaxie 500 7 Litre  was a sporty package, and vinyl tops were not an option on 7 Litres. Many were dealer installed tough. 

6379523817_95e7801414_b.jpg1966 Ford by CCCP Digital Studio, on Flickr

Posted
7 hours ago, Lovefordgalaxie said:

Good old '66 Galaxie.

This car looks great in white.

The same for Cragars. 

By the way, this one is a Galaxie 500 7 Litre, so, the side trim on the body is not a chrome part, it's just stamped into the sheetmetal. The only chrome at that place are the 7 Litre emblems on the front fenders. 

Also, the 7 Litre, was a Galaxie 500 with all the appointments of a Galaxie 500 XL, plus the 428 FE as standard equipment. This engine was a super smooth torque machine, but you could ask for the 427 cubic inch, side oiler mill with dual four barrels, and 425 hp. This was the "R" code V8, and it only came with the four speed top loader. The Galaxie 500 7 Litre  was a sporty package, and vinyl tops were not an option on 7 Litres. Many were dealer installed tough. 

6379523817_95e7801414_b.jpg1966 Ford by CCCP Digital Studio, on Flickr

Bugger! I don’t know why I thought that was a chrome strip on the side, thanks for the info. I put a vinyl top on it like a 68 ZB Fairlane 500 four door sedan my folks had back in the seventies.

Posted
14 hours ago, Plashdaddy said:

 

I’ve yet to try foiling itself ? but that sounds like a brilliant idea. Thanks everyone.

Instead of buffing the paint off the raised letters, I use small, tooth-pick size pieces of balsa soaked in lacquer thinner. Balsa is porous, and will absorb the lacquer thinner much more readily than a common toothpick. If the balsa accumulates a lot of paint, trim that part off and continue to march.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, BigTallDad said:

Instead of buffing the paint off the raised letters, I use small, tooth-pick size pieces of balsa soaked in lacquer thinner. Balsa is porous, and will absorb the lacquer thinner much more readily than a common toothpick. If the balsa accumulates a lot of paint, trim that part off and continue to march.

Thanks Ray, I'll have to give that a try.;)

Edited by Geno
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Geno said:

Thanks Ray, I'll have to give that a try.;)

Glad to help.

To practice, use a piece of sprue that has a number on a tab. Foil the number, paint it, then use the balsa (available at most craft stores) and lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the number. That should give you a level of comfort before working on the actual model.

Edited by BigTallDad
Posted
58 minutes ago, BigTallDad said:

To practice, use a piece of sprue that has a number on a tab. Foil the number, paint it, then use the balsa

 Outstanding tip!  

  I have done the "buff" method for years....very slow go.     I gotta try this!!

Thanks Ray!

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Khils said:

 Outstanding tip!  

  I have done the "buff" method for years....very slow go.     I gotta try this!!

Thanks Ray!

I foil the emblem before any paint or primer is applied. Trimmed just as close as if your doing it post paint work

The once the color coats are on . I take the small Tamiya pointed swabs dipped in lacquer thinner and lightly go over the raised lettering to reveal the foiled emblem . ( I use a lighted magnifier to keep a real close eye on progress ,, a little goes a long way believe me )

Once revealed go over it lightly with nothing but a tissue or similar ( toilet paper as an example ) to bring up the shine .

Then clear it all.  It sounds SOOOOOO much more difficult than it really is .

Ive been told the clear first THEN do the Q tip trick works just as well.

 

Once done the above and your emblems are supposed to be gold tinted ( This Lincoln is an example ) then and only then take a yellow sharpie then lightly go over the foil to tint it yellow/gold .

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Edited by gtx6970
Posted

Nice looking Ford. I thought the Ford and Galaxie 500 badges WERE painted - and that you'd done a pretty good job of it too.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/21/2017 at 10:55 AM, BigTallDad said:

Glad to help.

To practice, use a piece of sprue that has a number on a tab. Foil the number, paint it, then use the balsa (available at most craft stores) and lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the number. That should give you a level of comfort before working on the actual model.

Awesome idea, I'll do that. Again, thanks buddy.;)

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