Flathead

[landman]

Ray,this is really impressive.

[bisc63]

MOOOOORRRE!!!

[Flat32]

Got a little sidetracked with wheels.  Tried my hand at real wire spokes, but they didn't look like the bent spoke Kelsey Hayes wheels in the original Bug photo.  So I changed my computer model to bent spokes and printed them again.  First used the polyjet and, while sort of OK and good enough, they didn't have the thinness of the real wire.  So I tried printing them with the Formlabs SLA and got thinner spokes that I think, being bent, look better than the real wire.

I must say the real wire is downright tedious.

 

[dino246gt]

Wow, I sure hope you'll be selling those rims? All the stuff you have already looks great, love that Hot Rod!

[Mr. Metallic]

On 8/6/2018 at 9:16 AM, dino246gt said:

Wow, I sure hope you'll be selling those rims? All the stuff you have already looks great, love that Hot Rod!

Yeah, a lot of your parts look good in that big pic of the full "kit" you printed. But those KH bent wires you printed came out really nice.

[Flat32]

Middle top one is the real wire, bottom middle is the SLA print, top right is polyjet straight spoke, bottom right is bent spoke polyjet.

These wheels are not compatible with kit tires.  I don't know if Shapeways can print them, but I'll upload a file and see what happens.  If they can do them I'll open a shop and sell them at cost with no guarantee of result being good.  50% of my spoked wheel prints have defects with a missing spoke or two.

[Flat32]

Been pondering how to make 1/25 scale spark plugs and needed to find a material for the white insulator part.  Obviously not functional.  

Found this and it looks like I can make it work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYVT9l969NE

While I was at it I ordered some of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362397243829

My dentist lets me into his lab and if you ever get a chance to tour a dental lab jump on it.

[Flat32]

Struggling along trying to figure out how to break into actually detailing parts.  Have to do this before attempting actual build.  I consider the carbs to be the most difficult and if I can manage to do them the rest should be easier.

Need help or suggestions.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Beautiful, beautiful work. I meant to comment on it earlier and got sidetracked. Incredibly fine stuff going on here. Impressive and inspirational.

Edited February 27, 2019 by Ace-Garageguy

[Flat32]

Glad you like it, but where's the help??  

I'm thinking if I can print in black resin I might be able to dry brush the body and linkage leaving the natural black at the base.  No experience with dry brushing though. Don't know if dry brushing will "take" on the resin nor do I know how to "fix" the result.

I'm certainly not of a mind to primer it unless there's a simple dip method.

[garagepunk66]

7 hours ago, Flat32 said:

Glad you like it, but where's the help??  

I'm thinking if I can print in black resin I might be able to dry brush the body and linkage leaving the natural black at the base.  No experience with dry brushing though. Don't know if dry brushing will "take" on the resin nor do I know how to "fix" the result.

I'm certainly not of a mind to primer it unless there's a simple dip method.

Look at photos of Stromberg 97 carbs on Google. You will notice that the throttle body section (the baseplate of the carb) is cast iron, so you will apply a weathering technique there to simulate surface rust and fuel staining. The main body is diecast potmetal with a very slightly gold irridited finish. Of course by the time these were in hot rod use they were kind of dingy looking. I would start by painting the upper portion a dull dark silver and the base some shade of reddish brown in a selection of military flats. Then mix a drop of dark green and a drop of gold into some decanted dull-cote and topcoat the silver with that. Then apply a black wash to get the dingy effect. The levers and accelerator pump rod are cadmium plated so a brighter silver is appropriate for those

Edited February 27, 2019 by garagepunk66

[Flat32]

Now that's help.  Thanks.  I'm aware of the colors and look.  I'd like them to appear used but relatively clean like a hot rodder with pride would have them. Bases near black with a decent gasket line separation from the zinc body.  I'm guessing highlighting the linkage, screws, and nuts will be easy. 

Going to print this batch in gray.  They won't look as good as this digital rendition by far.

 

[landman]

Here's the Holley 94 which was with the engine. Primer, black, platinum gold and brass.

[Flat32]

You did that carb justice.  I'm amazed at what you can do with some 3D printed parts.  Did you do any surface sanding at all??

[landman]

4 hours ago, Flat32 said:

You did that carb justice.  I'm amazed at what you can do with some 3D printed parts.  Did you do any surface sanding at all??

No.

[Flat32]

Ran a trial of the dozen Strombergs in red resin because I found out the gray has different characteristics that are not as good for fine detail.

Result is seven good and five failed to print entire base,  Interesting that the bad ones were in the center of the build plate.

Anyway they are better in that I can see the screw slots, idle screws are there and I can make out the 97 marking on the side. 

[Flat32]

My first carb paint job.  Too dark. 

[garagepunk66]

Unreal, just gorgeous work. 

 

[MeatMan]

Great project, and awesome work!!

[Flat32]

Thanks.

I reduced the print number to 8 instead of 12 so no failures.  I like printing, haven't figured out painting.  Got what I thought was the best Tamiya primer in the spray can and it didn't work like I had hoped.

I like the Sharpie pens. What I really would like to see is a 1:25 scale airbrush. 

[Flat32]

I had no idea airbrushing could get this fine.

 

[Spex84]

The scale and fidelity of these carbs is blowing my mind. Wow!

Shapeways can't even print things as delicate as those carb linkages; they'd fail the "wall thickness" test. Super impressed over here.

I'd give the carbs a very light dusting of primer, hit 'em with some metalizer, buff it, then an acrylic dark wash to accentuate the crevices, and then pick out the high points with a tiny brush and a lighter-colored metalizer paint...and then pick out the brass details like adjuster screws, etc.

Thanks for showing us what's possible now. With a few $$$ for a good 3D printer, that is

[Flat32]

Caveman here, for me there's no such thing as as a very light dusting of primer.  What I need is a surface prep with no pigment that will etch the printed resin, a dip job.  Next I need a binder that subsequent coatings will take to, another dip job. Think deposition similar to water spots.Then I can get to the pigmented stuff you describe. I like the metalizer suggestion, have some, never tried, since it's mostly pigment.  Can't imagine buffing it on a carb that's smaller than a honeybee though. I don't have any washes, have to buy some.  What's the best brand??

I have to get rid of the red resin.  Optimal scenario is acceptable detail printed in gray resin on a $300  Anycubic Photon printer with how to detail paint pinned down so that a caveman can do it.

[Deathgoblin]

Man, this is some nice work!    

[Flat32]

If the nickel plating works I'll print some 1:16 scale and make a pair of earrings for my wife so she'll be more tolerant of my activities. Then maybe a pair of Flathead bare blocks 1:48 scale.