Clear part help

[Dann Tier]

I have a situation where I have windows with the trim molded into them......hate this kind. they are scratched, and need to be polished, but heres my problem; if I polish them, will I be able to paint the flat black trim, or will the paint refuse to stick? I hate polishing clear parts, so usually I keep buying the same kit until I get a clear window, but i'm trying to calm that habit down. the polishes I have, are: Micro Mark System, and the Turtle Wax Headlamp Repair Kit. I.ve heard that Tamiyas Modeling Wax works great on clear parts, but can I apply paint over it?  If you can shed some light on my situation, it would be much appreciated!!

[maltsr]

I have successfully polished clear parts using Micro Mesh 3600 grit followed by Tamiya Coarse and Fine rubbing compounds.  These compounds may be painted over. I hope this helps.  You could also try Future, there are several threads about this somewhere.

[Snake45]

I've polished clear plastic with Trim nail sticks (Walmart hasn't had them for a few months, but they reappear sporadically) and with Wright's Silver Cream, a silver polish available in the house cleaning supplies section. It's water based and leaves no residue that would interfere with your painting. Been using the stuff for at least 20 years now on clear plastic. 

[#1 model citizen]

I would think a good washing in in Dawn would remove any polish or wax residue. I would also think polish would be more "paint friendly" than wax.

[Dave Ambrose]

I don't know how badly scratched they are, but I would try dipping them in future floor polish or whatever it's called these days. If it doesn't work out, you can easily remove it with windex. 

[BigTallDad]

Instead of painting the flat black, try using a black magic marker. That's what I used on this Dakota.

[Can-Con]

14 hours ago, maltsr said:

I have successfully polished clear parts using Micro Mesh 3600 grit followed by Tamiya Coarse and Fine rubbing compounds.  These compounds may be painted over. I hope this helps.  You could also try Future, there are several threads about this somewhere.

I second this, but use the full polishing kit from 3200 grit on down. I almost always "tint" my glass with Tamiya clears and polish it out using this exact method. Never had any problem with putting the black band on after.

Thing is, true "polish" does not add anything onto the surface. Think of it more like super fine sanding, which is exactly what it is. Wax is just that, wax and does nothing to get rid of the scratches, it just covers them. Same with Future, which most people call "polish" , which it definitely is not. It's just a thinned acrylic clearcoat. Dave's right about it filling small scratches and smoothing over them but if they're any size at all you should use a polishing kit and get rid of them properly.

[Casey]

10 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

I second this, but use the full polishing kit from 3200 grit on down.

Exactly. Once you finish with the 12,000 grit sanding cloth, it shouldn't need anything else.

 

 

Edited January 27, 2018 by Casey

[Dann Tier]

Thanks guys!, guess I got some thinking to do...

[gtx6970]

I did the future dip on an old annual glass. And was amazed at how well it looked once dry

[thatz4u]

I repaired a scuffed windshield with Wrights silver cream & a cloth, no sanding at all

[Greg Wann]

http://www.koalaproducts.net/polish.htm

I use this product now.  It is not cheap though.  It is a very nice product.  When I first got back into modeling in 2005, I bought a bottle of Bare Metal Foil plastic polish.  Once I ran out, I found out it was no longer available.  I have spent a lot of money on plastic polishing liquids.  Koala is the only thing I have found that is close.  While this product is very thin like water and appears to have no grit it does a nice job, great on polishing paint too.

https://www.bare-metal.com/model-building-molding-specialty-items.html

WOW, I just went to their site and see it is in stock and available!  I'm just going to get a bottle to see if it is still the good stuff it was back then.  Only $4.50 a bottle.  And if you happen to do resin casting their $5.00 price for a pound of Klean Klay is good too.

Edited January 28, 2018 by Greg Wann

[Snake45]

1 hour ago, thatz4u said:

I repaired a scuffed windshield with Wrights silver cream & a cloth, no sanding at all

I keep telling people that, but they just insist on spending big bucks on "special hobby" products that don't work any better. Ah shucks oh well. 

[Dann Tier]

On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 9:59 PM, maltsr said:

I have successfully polished clear parts using Micro Mesh 3600 grit followed by Tamiya Coarse and Fine rubbing compounds.  These compounds may be painted over. I hope this helps.  You could also try Future, there are several threads about this somewhere.

I appreciate everyones input, but after watching numerous videos on all the various types of window treatments, I've decided to go with the complete Tamiya polishing compound kit. The video I saw of it being used, was the only one that showed it being masked over and painted. It looked great! Thanks for this suggestion, maltsr!, I use to use Micro Mark, but have had inconsistent results with it, so I decided to look elsewhere.

[Bainford]

The Tamiya polishing compound will work great. Clean the window well with warm water and soap to get rid of all trace of polishing compound residue. After the paint has been applied and cured, apply some Tamiya wax to the glass. It really makes the glass come alive, but no painting can take place after the wax has been applied. The same goes for glue on waxed surfaces.

When using the polishing compounds, be careful to not stress the glass. I find that as I am polishing, my slippery, polish covered fingers tend to grip the glass tightly which can cause it to flex and induce micro stress cracks.

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, Bainford said:

When using the polishing compounds, be careful to not stress the glass. I find that as I am polishing, my slippery, polish covered fingers tend to grip the glass tightly which can cause it to flex and induce micro stress cracks.

If you're getting stress cracks, it means your polish has something in it that the plastic doesn't like--possibly naphtha or something similar. You can flex a piece of clear plastic until it cracks or breaks outright, but it won't get "stress cracks" unless some chemical is affecting it. This is why I stopped polishing with Brasso 30 or 40 years ago. 

I've never had stress cracks when polishing with Wright's. There are no chemicals in it. It's water-based. 

[peteski]

If you are worried about pain adhesion, once the part is polished, wash it in a warm water and dish detergent. That should clean off any polishing compound residue. Or if you are really paranoid, rinse the part in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Or do both.   In any case, paint adhesion is usually negatively affected by silicone-based waxes (not polishing compounds)

[#1 model citizen]

59 minutes ago, peteski said:

If you are worried about pain adhesion, once the part is polished, wash it in a warm water and dish detergent. That should clean off any polishing compound residue. Or if you are really paranoid, rinse the part in 91% isopropyl alcohol. Or do both.   In any case, paint adhesion is usually negatively affected by silicone-based waxes (not polishing compounds)

 Uh, what I said...  (except the alcohol thingy... )

[Stevetbird]

I use 6000 sanding cloth and novus #2 for scratched "glass" and add the black window primer I use a black sharpie.

[Dann Tier]

2 minutes ago, Stevetbird said:

I use 6000 sanding cloth and novus #2 for scratched "glass" and add the black window primer I use a black sharpie.

I don't like the purple tint that sharpies gives off when hit just right.....drives me mad.

[Stevetbird]

I have used different kinds that don't have the hue to them.or I use Elmer's painters pens.i think the other "Sharpie"markers are from Marks alot

[Dann Tier]

9 hours ago, Stevetbird said:

I have used different kinds that don't have the hue to them.or I use Elmer's painters pens.i think the other "Sharpie"markers are from Marks alot

I will have to check that out...thanks

[peteski]

Sharpies (or similar permanent markers) can sometimes slightly craze the surface of some types of plastic.  Some brands are more aggressive than others.  Always test them on a piece of clear tree.