Drag Question about funny car tin work ?

[Mr mopar]

What tin work fits a resin 1/25 Plymouth Satellite body ..............what do you guys use ?

[High octane]

I believe that Revell had a Wild Willie Borsch Satellite funny car kit and the tin work from that kit is what I'd use.

[iBorg]

The Revell Wild Willie car was a Charger. AMT had a Satellite, the MoPower car. Terrible tin work. I'd use the tin from your donor kit and modify it as needed.

[Codi]

If you have the desire, there are some great insights on how to scratch your own...........both Chris on his mega Vega funny build and Brad (gasser59) have both built gassers/funnies with phenomenal tin work. I've not tried their methods but I'm going to at some juncture, they're VERY realistic.  cheers, tim

[Muncie]

A couple of ideas to go with the good information that has been posted.

1. The Satellite roof is a little lower and further forward than the Revell funny car bodies - the real thing is the same. - you may want to take a cut our of the roll cage, 1/16" to lower the body a bit.  Wayne's chassis lowering trick is also a good idea.

2.  Cut the donor tin into two pieces at the bottom of the vertical firewall to separate the firewall from the rest of the tin that mates up to the chassis around the driver - cut and trim the pieces to fit the body mocking up with the chassis as you go.  Eventually, the mock ups will tell you where the panels will line up and if you need to do some scratch building with sheet plastic.  Shouldn't have to replace the whole thing.

3. some of the Satellites had the engine mounted forward of the engine location in the early Revell chassis - I like that look and it may make fitting the tins easier.

[Mr mopar]

2 hours ago, Muncie said:

A couple of ideas to go with the good information that has been posted.

1. The Satellite roof is a little lower and further forward than the Revell funny car bodies - the real thing is the same. - you may want to take a cut our of the roll cage, 1/16" to lower the body a bit.  Wayne's chassis lowering trick is also a good idea.

2.  Cut the donor tin into two pieces at the bottom of the vertical firewall to separate the firewall from the rest of the tin that mates up to the chassis around the driver - cut and trim the pieces to fit the body mocking up with the chassis as you go.  Eventually, the mock ups will tell you where the panels will line up and if you need to do some scratch building with sheet plastic.  Shouldn't have to replace the whole thing.

3. some of the Satellites had the engine mounted forward of the engine location in the early Revell chassis - I like that look and it may make fitting the tins easier.

Good info Steve ,sounds like the route I'll have to take thank you . and all the other guy's thank you for your input I really appreciate

it , you real can teach an old dog new tricks .....LOL

[Muncie]

Funny car on a stick

sad to say, this is what happened to the Satellite body for Twig Zeigler's Pizza Haven Funny car 

from https://bangshift.com/general-news/roadside-find-funny-car-on-a-stick-the-muffler-hut-funny-car-sign-in-centralia-Washington/

[Mr mopar]

I know where that is I have seen it ,it is sad

[10thumbs]

On 2/27/2018 at 9:56 PM, Codi said:

If you have the desire, there are some great insights on how to scratch your own...........both Chris on his mega Vega funny build and Brad (gasser59) have both built gassers/funnies with phenomenal tin work. I've not tried their methods but I'm going to at some juncture, they're VERY realistic.  cheers, tim

I can only agree, the best tin work on models is from real aluminum, easy to handle.  These two are the best.