fiatboy Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Hi. I just painted a Chevy model "Marina Blue" I got special mixed in a removable-top can from NAPA. I don't even know if there is clear enamel. How about clear, gloss acrylic? I'm pretty sure I should not try to 'rub out' enamel. I do have a food-dehydrator and this body has spent a good amount of time in it. Any comments would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Krylon has a clear acrylic paint in a rattle can (Acrylic coating 1303) and I use it for sealing decals; that might work well for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Problem is with the vague terminology used by modelers. Like "lacquer" and "acrylic". You can have acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer. The chemistries of various paints can differ, and and solvents can be hot or cold. Paint compatibility is d difficult subject. Unfortunately without knowing more details about the paint chemistry (it would take some digging, and some info is trade secrets), there is no sure way to know the compatibility of any 2 paints, especially when they are by different manufacturers or from different paint lines of the same manufacturer. The type of question asked here pops up regularly in online forums, and there is no sure fire answer. The best answer is to test the compatibility on some disposable surface (like a plastic spoon). But even that is not guaranteed since the kit's plastic has a different composition from the spoon, and even thought the test is between the paint layer and the clear coat, the paint's substrate can make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TarheelRick Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 11 hours ago, peteski said: The best answer is to test the compatibility on some disposable surface (like a plastic spoon). But even that is not guaranteed since the kit's plastic has a different composition from the spoon, and even thought the test is between the paint layer and the clear coat, the paint's substrate can make a difference. Good point, rather than using a spoon, test on a piece of the kit sprue. Quite often there will be a square piece in a corner with kit numbers or some such. If not use some left over piece to test on. Good luck with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 On 7/9/2018 at 8:22 PM, fiatboy said: I'm pretty sure I should not try to 'rub out' enamel. Not true at all. You can polish enamel just as you can with lacquer. No need for a clear coat, really, unless it's a metallic or pearlescent finish. Nothing looks worse on a scale model than an overly thick clear coat, visible with the naked eye. As long as the paint is thoroughly dry (and it sounds like it is, having been in the dehydrator for quite a while), you can start the sanding/polishing process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Can-Con Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 3 hours ago, Casey said: . Nothing looks worse on a scale model than an overly thick clear coat, visible with the naked eye. , , , Unless its metallic paint with no clearcoat that has blush from sanding and/or polishing exposing the metallic flakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Can-Con said: , , , Unless its metallic paint with no clearcoat that has blush from sanding and/or polishing exposing the metallic flakes. I knew I should have used a word less absolute than "nothing". Edited July 11, 2018 by Casey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatboy Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Thanks for all the comments everybody. The body shell that I painted w/ enamel, looks dry enough to sand a little bit. I thought I would try it with a real fine 'sandpaper'. Well, I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 By "real fine" you mean at least 600-800 grit,..yes? A And I hope you have let the paint dry for at least 3 days...!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 I would suggest investing in a polishing kit, like so: https://modelempireusa.com/?product=lmg-2200-professional-polishing-kit Unless you have massive orange peel, 800 is way too coarse for the first pass. See the grits provided in the above kit and start with something finer. There are different ways to do it, but some good advice in these two links from some folks who have "put up" so to speak, when it comes to great paintwork: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/perfect-paint/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Can-Con Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 2 hours ago, Casey said: I knew I should have used a word less absolute than "nothing". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 2 hours ago, Casey said: Unless you have massive orange peel, 800 is way too coarse for the first pass. See the grits provided in the above kit and start with something finer. Agree completely. #1000 grit is "coarse" for color-sanding work, and #1200 or #1500 is better in most cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatboy Posted July 13, 2018 Author Share Posted July 13, 2018 Hi. By fine, I meant 4000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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