Revell 32 Ford 5 window coupe built the old way

[Ballroad]

Recently I received the 32 5 window coupe from Revell, after reading about it on this forum it looks like a good deal. I'm kinda new to this again but I would like to build it with more period correct parts. ( Banjo rear end, drum brakes, Flat head motor... I do have a flyer from Replicas and Miniatures and it looks like one way to go, or would I be better off to combine another kit to get the parts I need.(Example Revell Tweetie Pie ). I don't mind spending some money on this as it's still cheaper than building a real one! Does one buy more than one or two Kit's just for the parts. I really like the recent posting on the Hard chopped 32... anyone?

Edited July 13, 2018 by Ballroad
Misspelled Tweetie

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have several threads that go into much detail as to the methods of converting chassis to an earlier period-correct representation. As I do the real ones for a living, you can trust my info.

This thread shows converting the old AMT chassis to better-detailed suspension bits, but all the info as appropriate for backdating the Revell unit too.

Many of us DO have multiple kits purchased just for parts, but many of the the R&M parts are copies of some kit bits, so you can go either way.

 

[Mr. Metallic]

A great kit to start with that has a lot of the parts you need and is easily adaptable to your Revell 32 is the Monogram 32 Ford roadster. This tooling is from the early 60's, and started out as the Lil' Deuce. But recent reissues are plentiful and can be had for a low price if you dig a little. 

All issues of the kit contain some very nice Ford early juice brakes, nice dropped front axle with split bones, and a buggy sprung rear. I buy this kit whenever I see it cheap just for the suspension parts alone.

Rep+Min of Md is one of the best casters in the business, so buy with confidence if you go that route. He offers a full flathead kit, and tons of flathead hop-up parts as well. 

Here's some box art of the newer(and therefor cheaper) versions of the Monogram 32 roadster. If you have any more questions, just ask

  

 

And, the original

[Ballroad]

Thanks this is what I was looking for,  great information,!!!

[Greg Myers]

Realize the frame on these kits is molded into the fender assembly.

[Ballroad]

I see that now, but isn't the Revell 5 window also molded with the floor pan with it. I've been looking a lot online of prototype 32 frames, suspensions, and taking notes. I doubt very much I will have a real one to look at. The H.a.m.b. site is wonderful reference, ?

[Ace-Garageguy]

10 hours ago, Greg Myers said:

Realize the frame on these kits is molded into the fender assembly.

He's building the Revell '32 5-window, which has a completely separate frame...just like the rest of the Revell 1/25 '32 lineup.

The other kit was posted as a source of earlier style suspension parts.

[Ace-Garageguy]

26 minutes ago, Ballroad said:

I see that now, but isn't the Revell 5 window also molded with the floor pan with it. I've been looking a lot online of prototype 32 frames, suspensions, and taking notes. I doubt very much I will have a real one to look at. The H.a.m.b. site is wonderful reference, ?

The Revell kit you're starting with has a floor molded with the frame, but the Monogram kits shown above have the frame molded as part of the fender assemblies. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

A stock '32 Ford frame looks like this. Note the crossmember design and orientation. (The front and rear frame ends have been cut off.)

If you want to convert the Revell '32 Ford frame to earlier "traditional" stock suspension, you will need to change the rear crossmember to something like is shown above. This can be scratch-built, or swapped from another frame. Once you do that. you can use the "traditional" stock rear suspension from the Monogram kits shown above.

On the other hand, if you want to run a "quick-change" style rear end, still suspended from a "traditional" transverse buggy-spring, you will need to change the rear crossmember to the style shown below, with an appropriate spring from a model A or a model T.

In front, besides using a "dropped" axle to lower the car, the front crossmember may also be changed to something that raises the spring mounting point relative to the chassis, thereby lowering the car further. This is still entirely "traditional".

 

 

Edited July 15, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ballroad]

Wow that is great, Thanks for the nice photos,and information, this is really a great forum, I did find a Monogram kit online, should be getting it soon, but I will put in a order to Replicas and Miniatures, I've never messed with resin  so it will be a good learning experience, Thanks again...

[Mr. Metallic]

On 7/15/2018 at 6:55 PM, Ballroad said:

Wow that is great, Thanks for the nice photos,and information, this is really a great forum, I did find a Monogram kit online, should be getting it soon, but I will put in a order to Replicas and Miniatures, I've never messed with resin  so it will be a good learning experience, Thanks again...

While Bill is right with regards to the rear cross members, I'll offer this as well. Since you said you were jut getting back into the hobby, and not knowing what your kit stash looks like or your skill set, let me throw this out there. You can get away with simulating the rear cross member with a little cheat. On the Revell frame there is a molded in rear member just ahead of the gas tank. If you cut a hole directly in front of that for the spring from the Monogram kit to rest in, and then put another strip of plastic in front of the opening you just cut for the spring you can simulate the look of a cross member without all the extensive surgery of putting a real cross member in there. See the pic, using the exact components described(yes, the radius arm would hit the floor as pictured. This is a mockup of an old project). If you need better details or pics let me know.

Like I said, this may not be 100% accurate, but if you're just getting back into this you may not want to try big mods like modifying the frame and stuff just yet. If you need any more help just ask. And feel free to ask away about resin as well.

Edited July 17, 2018 by Mr. Metallic

[Ballroad]

Well , thanks for your help, I will be sure to submit questions as required. I guess I really done it  I ordered yet another kit , a Revell 29 roadster 2n1, I've never had so many Kit's on hand like this ever, and compare to you guys it's nothing.... but I'm having fun, not getting greasy and is cheaper than a real rod, plus I don't have to worry about hitting a deer like a real car, and up in Michigan we have lots of deer???????

[Casey]

?

[wrenchr]

with 3d printing you would think someone would be printing chassis for these as popularity is huge for 32's and the revell versions likewise.   

[Jon Haigwood]

If you need rear end and spring stuff you might look at some of the Revell/Monogram 29 pickups.

[Richard Bartrop]

The Revell Pickup rear is a good choice if you want to go with a quick change rear, but Revell's '40 and '48 Fords are a great source for traditional running gear.  Here's one of mine with the axles from the Revell '48 on a modified Deuce chassis from the Revell '29 Roadster, 

The rear crossmember is from the '48, but the 'one on the '40 Ford is a separate piece.  Some sheet styrene was needed to make a new K member, and some motor mounts, but overall, I'd say it's a pretty painless conversion.

[wrenchr]

20 minutes ago, Richard Bartrop said:

The Revell Pickup rear is a good choice if you want to go with a quick change rear, but Revell's '40 and '48 Fords are a great source for traditional running gear.  Here's one of mine with the axles from the Revell '48 on a modified Deuce chassis from the Revell '29 Roadster, 

The rear crossmember is from the '48, but the 'one on the '40 Ford is a separate piece.  Some sheet styrene was needed to make a new K member, and some motor mounts, but overall, I'd say it's a pretty painless conversion.

ooh thanks, I have a few of the 40 fords and the flathead will be perfect. 

[Richard Bartrop]

22 hours ago, wrenchr said:

ooh thanks, I have a few of the 40 fords and the flathead will be perfect. 

No problem. Now, the way I did it places the front wheels further back, which was fine, because I was trying to replicate a specific vintage rod.  If you want to keep the stance of the original '32 Ford kit, the brakes from the '40 Ford should be almost a direct swap with the disc brakes on the Deuce kit.

[Mr. Metallic]

On 1/8/2021 at 12:26 PM, wrenchr said:

with 3d printing you would think someone would be printing chassis for these as popularity is huge for 32's and the revell versions likewise.   

There is a company out of Australia that has some nicely designed 32 Ford frames. However, there appear to be a lot of "steps" in their prints, so that's what has put me off from ordering yet. But that may not be a big deal on a larger part like a frame. I'd love to hear feedback from someone that has actually bought their products before i buy

He is also a member here

https://bullyscustoms.wixsite.com/website

Edited January 12, 2021 by Mr. Metallic

[Mr. Metallic]

On 1/8/2021 at 3:53 PM, Richard Bartrop said:

The Revell Pickup rear is a good choice if you want to go with a quick change rear, but Revell's '40 and '48 Fords are a great source for traditional running gear.  Here's one of mine with the axles from the Revell '48 on a modified Deuce chassis from the Revell '29 Roadster, 

 

The rear crossmember is from the '48, but the 'one on the '40 Ford is a separate piece.  Some sheet styrene was needed to make a new K member, and some motor mounts, but overall, I'd say it's a pretty painless conversion.

I've bee really thinking hard about backdating a Revell 32 frame closer to stock and I was thinking the crossmember from the Revell 40 would fit the bill. Thanks for confirming it for me 

[wrenchr]

36 minutes ago, Mr. Metallic said:

There is a company out of Australia that has some nicely designed 32 Ford frames. However, there appear to be a lot of "steps" in their prints, so that's what has put me off from ordering yet. But that may not be a big deal on a larger part like a frame. I'd love to hear feedback from someone that has actually bought their products before i buy

He is also a member here

https://bullyscustoms.wixsite.com/website

No pics of the frames I can see just illustrations. 

[alan barton]

Hi guys,

I am happy to share some photos of Bully's 32 frame with you here. 

In the interests of full disclosure, he is a friend of mine and has been doing this for about a year.  He is from a family of hot rodders with a hot rod business so he is in the right place to get ideas and he is also very open to other people's ideas to develop his product.  He gave me this frame, one of his first, to trial and get some feedback from.

As suggested above, there are some lines and ridges in the surface. I did a very quick scrape of rough edges with an Xacto, followed by a sand with 100 grit and a quick smear of Tamiya putty. I gave that a rub down with 32) and fired a shot of primer on it and this is what you see here. In total I would have about 20 minutes work in it at this point.

So, here's what you need to know.  I can still see and feel a few ridges, typical of 3D printing, but I don't think it will take long to correct them The frame has simplified flat crossmembers and will require some extra fabrication with thin styrene if you want to mount a transverse spring. If you are using an independent front or rear end, or a coilover rear end, you are half way there already.

This first frame has a 32 style centre crossmember but Bully already has a frame with a 40 Ford crossmember and a street rod industry style tubular crossmember ( which is going to save A LOT of fabricating work!) on his list. I haven't got to see these in the flesh just yet.

The frame does not have the characteristic reveal down the lower edge of the frame rail. However, the good news is that this frame is very near a snap fit onto the Revel fender unit.  When I took the photo below, I had one little bit of tape in the centre of the running board and a bit of blu tac underneath Its that good!

Cheers

Alan

,

 

[Mr. Metallic]

17 hours ago, wrenchr said:

No pics of the frames I can see just illustrations. 

If you're on Facebook, find them there. They don't appear to have updated their website in awhile. But they are often sharing new products and ways to order them on FB, including all the 32 frames they offer

[Mr. Metallic]

8 hours ago, alan barton said:

Hi guys,

I am happy to share some photos of Bully's 32 frame with you here. 

The frame does not have the characteristic reveal down the lower edge of the frame rail. However, the good news is that this frame is very near a snap fit onto the Revel fender unit.  When I took the photo below, I had one little bit of tape in the centre of the running board and a bit of blu tac underneath Its that good!

Cheers

Alan

Thanks for sharing. As a big 32 Ford fan I've been intrigued by these frames when i saw them on FB. They do look quite well engineered, and your fit-up with the Revell fender proves that fact. And now i know how much work it will take to get them whipped into shape. Now it's saving up my pennies to swallow that big shipping pill that comes with ordering from "down under"

[Mr. Metallic]

Hey @Ballroad, I stumbled on this thread again and was curious if you progressed and further with this project?