Ferrari 308: Ready for clear

[ismaelg]

Hello,

From the department of redundancy department: The 308 is clear for clear.

This color is very hard to photograph. It looks way much better in person.

I atached the front fascia / bumper / underpan / whatever but left the back one because I still need to mask and paint the bumper black.

A first for me: Emblem foil before primer/paint. I keep polishing it after each coat to prevent heavy buildup. It came out good. Keep in mind the pic is larger than actual size.

Haven't done anything on the interiors or any other area, so it is still a long way to go.

Thanks,

[BIGTRUCK]

Lookin real sharp Izzy, gonna be killer up on wheels

[Eric C]

Very nice. I also like using the BMF before paint trick. Works really well.

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

Darn you Izzy!

I've been trying to get one for a decent price from EvilBay.

Now I go and see yours and I want one even worse.

[MonoPed]

Lookin good Izzy!!

[Zoom Zoom]

Darn you Izzy!

I've been trying to get one for a decent price from EvilBay.

Now I go and see yours and I want one even worse.

What's a decent price? They never seem to be very expensive, usually around $15 or so, though I've seen cheaper at shows.

I found one at our show a couple years ago for $5 from one of our club members, I was about to buy it when Eric C walked up behind me, he looked interested in it-I asked if he wanted one to build, he said "yes" so I let him buy it instead of me. I wasn't going to let it get away to just anyone for $5 even if I had to buy it myself. It was in good hands and I didn't need another one anyway.

You'd think he'd thank me by building it one of these days :wink:

[Eric C]

You'd think he'd thank me by building it one of these days :wink:

:oops: uh..... I'll get right on it!!! . I do appreciate getting the kit and I will build it... someday.

The biggest thing stopping me so far is choosing a color.

ismaelg: your's is looking great!!

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

What's a decent price? They never seem to be very expensive, usually around $15 or so, though I've seen cheaper at shows.

I found one at our show a couple years ago for $5 from one of our club members, I was about to buy it when Eric C walked up behind me, he looked interested in it-I asked if he wanted one to build, he said "yes" so I let him buy it instead of me. I wasn't going to let it get away to just anyone for $5 even if I had to buy it myself. It was in good hands and I didn't need another one anyway.

You'd think he'd thank me by building it one of these days :wink:

The ones I seen on eBay have been going for $20 or more. My pucker point for just about any kit on eBay is $15 give or take.

[Zoom Zoom]

Is that $15 with or w/o shipping? One ended last night for $15/buy it now, w/$5 shipping and got no bids. One sold earlier in August for $8 bagged w/o box. They're out there if you look!

[Mr. Can Am Garage]

Is that $15 with or w/o shipping? One ended last night for $15/buy it now, w/$5 shipping and got no bids. One sold earlier in August for $8 bagged w/o box. They're out there if you look!

Guess I musta missed those.

Time to start paying attention.

[Zoom Zoom]

Guess I musta missed those.

Time to start paying attention.

And there's a very good possibility the Monogram 308 is "the" 308 GTB that Revell of Germany is reissuing later this year. Nobody knows for sure (except perhaps people in Germany), but seems logical as the Monogram is a GTB and the old Revell/Airfix GTB seemed to become the Magnum PI GTS later on.

[Ray]

Could you explain how you did the foil before paint thing. I tried it once and ended up sanding through the BMF. Thanks, Ray.

[ismaelg]

Could you explain how you did the foil before paint thing. I tried it once and ended up sanding through the BMF. Thanks, Ray.

Ray,

Peter Lepold posted a detailed tutorial in the tips, tricks and ideas section. In a nutshell, the trick is not to sand it because the foil will be destroyed, as you already found out. Peter recommends a polishing compound. I used a 4000 sanding cloth very carefully, and I did it after every coat of primer and every coat of color, to prevent buildup. Also, I did a final polishing with BMF Plastic Polish before the clear so it will be protected and I won't have to touch it once clear is applied.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,

[Ray]

Thanks a bunch, I'll give it another shot.

[simonr]

Another possibility the use of those fine tiped Q-tips, the special ones women use to apply cosmetics. Just put a little bit of thinner on the Q-tips and carefully "touch" the lettering on the model. It have to be carefully, so the thinner won't run over the script. If you use this technic the right way, it's impossible to go through the bare metal because you're not sanding anything, but, like I said, it has to be carefully. As in any tip, use any scrap of plastic to practice. I think this way it's faster than the sanding, but, everyone has it's own technic that work better to him or her.

Simón

Ray,

Peter Lepold posted a detailed tutorial in the tips, tricks and ideas section. In a nutshell, the trick is not to sand it because the foil will be destroyed, as you already found out. Peter recommends a polishing compound. I used a 4000 sanding cloth very carefully, and I did it after every coat of primer and every coat of color, to prevent buildup. Also, I did a final polishing with BMF Plastic Polish before the clear so it will be protected and I won't have to touch it once clear is applied.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,