Tape residue removal

[misterNNL]

I just removed some Duck brand masking tape from my current model project and have some residue left behind on the painted surface. Any suggestions for removing it without damaging the paint?

[crazyjim]

I use enamel thinner.  It doesn't hurt 2 part urethane clear.  I've heard people use Goo-Gone, nail polish remover, and alcohol but I don't remember the type of paint they had used those on.

[misterNNL]

My residue is on Testors clear if that makes any difference. I used that as a top coat for my Krylon burgundy over Krylon gloss black .All are rattle can products.

[crazyjim]

I would suggest spraying color on a spoon and clear it.  Maybe a couple of spoons so you'll have a variety to try out with different chemicals.

[StevenGuthmiller]

WD-40 will take it right off if it is truly just residue.

You might wind up finding impressions in the paint from the tape though.

This is part of the reason why I never use regular masking tape on my paint jobs.

If it is just residue, and the WD-40 takes it off, (which it will) just be cognoscente that you now have an oil on the surface.

Just something to keep in mind if you are planning on doing more painting or decal work afterwards.

But I have never had an issue with just washing the WD off of the body with some warm water & Dawn detergent.

I would be very wary of using anything that people use for removing paint, like alcohol, paint thinner or nail polish remover, (acetone).

Acetone especially.

Not only may it damage your paint, but I know from experience that it will eat the plastic.

Just seems risky to me to use these solvents on your paint.

 

Steve

Edited August 25, 2018 by StevenGuthmiller

[Snake45]

If your Testors Clear is enamel, rubbing alcohol will work. But if it's lacquer, it'll eat that right off. Testors makes about 19 different kinds of clear now, and I don't know which one you used. 

First thing I'd try is putting more of the tape on the residue. Sometimes that will pull it right off. 

Then I'd try Windex or ammonia. (That will also take off Future and water-based acrylics.) 

Then I'd give Steven's WD-40 a shot. I've never used it for any modeling purpose, but I've heard good things about it for this job. 

[dshue76]

If the clear is oil based enamel the wd 40 or mineral spirits thinner may or may not haze it. If it has fully cured it should be ok. I would try Windex first.

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

There used to be an Avon product years ago called "Skin So Soft".

If you have access to it, grab it!

This stuff works great for removing many kinds of adhesives.

It would take a bumper sticker right off of your car!

 

Steve

[misterNNL]

I tried some "Goo Gone" last night and it seems to be removing the clear as the cloth I used to wipe it afterwards is showing a hint of the burgundy. I really don't want to strip this truck down and start over so I'm going to let the surface dry for a couple days and try something else I guess. My clear was Testors # 1261 gloss coat clear lacquer.. The re will not be any painting done around here as the weather will be 90 degrees and humid the the next several days then we are leaving on vacation for two weeks. That should give what's left of my brain plenty  of time to figure out what to do next.

Edited August 26, 2018 by misterNNL
fat fingers !

[Snake45]

If your clearcoat is lacquer, you don't want to use anything with alcohol in it. 

[Jim N]

What sometimes has worked for me is to take a fresh piece of masking tape, and with a medium amount of pressure, put on the tape residue.  Then rather gently pull the tape off.  The new tape can pull the old residue off.

[TooOld]

Zippo or Ronsonol Lighter Fluid .  It removes any sticky residue immediately , won't damage any paint , and itself leaves no residue to wreak havoc on future painting .

[Snake45]

57 minutes ago, TooOld said:

Zippo or Ronsonol Lighter Fluid .  It removes any sticky residue immediately , won't damage any paint , and itself leaves no residue to wreak havoc on future painting .

Yes, it can remove enamel, though it might not in the time it would take to remove tape residue. 

Also, keep it away from clear styrene. It seems to have the weird property of "soaking into" plastic and making it brittle. The slightest pressure or torque will induce permanent stress cracks in the clear styrene, and can even make it crumble like a cookie. I've had it happen. (The plastic seems to be okay again after it's dried out for several days, though, but of course any induced stress cracks will remain.)

I use lighter fluid for an airbrush paint thinner for enamels sometimes, as it has some properties that I like. But I keep it away from bare styrene these days. 

[TooOld]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Yes, it can remove enamel, though it might not in the time it would take to remove tape residue. 

Also, keep it away from clear styrene. It seems to have the weird property of "soaking into" plastic and making it brittle. The slightest pressure or torque will induce permanent stress cracks in the clear styrene, and can even make it crumble like a cookie. I've had it happen. (The plastic seems to be okay again after it's dried out for several days, though, but of course any induced stress cracks will remain.)

I use lighter fluid for an airbrush paint thinner for enamels sometimes, as it has some properties that I like. But I keep it away from bare styrene these days. 

I rarely use enamel anymore so I stand corrected , and excessive use of anything will damage styrene .    I squirt some lighter fluid on a soft rag and wipe the tape residue off with just a couple of light swipes . Very quick . . . no damage .

[peteski]

12 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Yes, it can remove enamel, though it might not in the time it would take to remove tape residue. 

Also, keep it away from clear styrene. It seems to have the weird property of "soaking into" plastic and making it brittle. The slightest pressure or torque will induce permanent stress cracks in the clear styrene, and can even make it crumble like a cookie. I've had it happen. (The plastic seems to be okay again after it's dried out for several days, though, but of course any induced stress cracks will remain.)

I use lighter fluid for an airbrush paint thinner for enamels sometimes, as it has some properties that I like. But I keep it away from bare styrene these days. 

I agree on all counts.  Ronsonol is pure Naphtha which is the same as VM&P Naphtha (Varnish Maker's & Painter's Naphtha) is a mild solvent sold in hardware stores (and much cheaper than Ronsonol) I get mine in gallon size can.  Since it can be used as thinner, it can attack enamel paints like Testors (but lacquers are more resistant to it).  It is excellent as a degrease and for removing pressure-sensitive adhesives (like what is used by masking tape).  I often use it to clean non-clear styrene parts prior to painting them.

Here is more info:

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/vmp-naphtha

Also do a Google search for "vm&p naphtha"

 

[misterNNL]

After considering what I see on the surface of my truck I think that rather than leaving tape residue behind my masking tape may gave removed some of the clear top coat.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, misterNNL said:

After considering what I see on the surface of my truck I think that rather than leaving tape residue behind my masking tape may gave removed some of the clear top coat.

That was my fear.

As I said, Using masking tape on a finished surface cam be a real craps shoot.

 

Steve

Edited September 3, 2018 by StevenGuthmiller

[935k3]

WD40 takes tape  and label residue off of any thing. Wash with soap and water after use

Edited September 3, 2018 by 935k3

[RichCostello]

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That was my fear.

As I said, Using masking tape on a finished surface cam be a real craps shoot.

 

Steve

So, what do you use instead of masking tape?

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, RichCostello said:

So, what do you use instead of masking tape?

Mostly masking paper.

The type that you can buy by the roll at any home improvement store.

I use this to cover the bulk of the surface.

Then I use Tamiya tape or BMF to mask only the separation of colors.

I try my absolute hardest not to have any masking tape, whether standard tape or blue painters, touching the painted surface.

Tamiya tape is pretty safe.

It is low enough tack to guard against pulling any paint off & it won't leave behind any residue.

BMF may leave some adhesive, but it's easily removed with a little WD-40.

 

Steve

 

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, RichCostello said:

So, what do you use instead of masking tape?

I've been using the cheap, thin plastic bags from Walmart or sometimes Hobby Lobby. They're free, and there are always so many around they seem to be breeding. I tape off the actual edges/separation lines, and then use the plastic bags to cover all the big areas. 

[RichCostello]

Thanks guys, I'll have to try that.

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I've been using the cheap, thin plastic bags from Walmart or sometimes Hobby Lobby. They're free, and there are always so many around they seem to be breeding. I tape off the actual edges/separation lines, and then use the plastic bags to cover all the big areas. 

I've tried using plastic as well, although it was not plastic shopping bags, but I've had some issues with plastic as well.

Just be cognizant that plastic will trap moisture against the model.

 

Steve

[Snake45]

48 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I've tried using plastic as well, although it was not plastic shopping bags, but I've had some issues with plastic as well.

Just be cognizant that plastic will trap moisture against the model.

 

Steve

Hadn't thought of that, but I don't leave it on long enough for that to be a problem. For example, this morning I masked off to shoot a black vinyl top on a body. Did the edges in tape and the rest in bag plastic. Shot the primer (Walmart flat black) a couple hours ago and I'm about to go down and shoot the color (Krylon Satin Black, shot from a foot or more away for texture). Should be able to unmask the whole mess tonight, or tomorrow at the very latest. 

One advantage to the plastic over paper towels or paper napkins or ANY kind of cloth for this is, no lint! I'm always on the lookout for static electricity problems, but so far have never had one. Maybe this kind of plastic doesn't generate it. 

I stick my left hand in another plastic bag and hold the body directly and don't get paint all over my hand, too. World's cheapest glove! 

[StevenGuthmiller]

This is what I use.

$1.15 for 180 feet at Menard's.

 

Steve