Woodland Scenic Model Graphics

[Hotrod 97]

I was thinking of using these Woodland Scenic Dry Transfer Model Graphics for the Fantasy Flyer. Anyone have any tips or tricks on using them?

[Ace-Garageguy]

They're very similar to Letraset dry transfers, if you ever used those.

Pay very careful attention to leveling and spacing, or they'll look like dookey.

I have found a rounded-tip steel stylus to be the best for application. Like this.

It works a lot better than the doofus in the video getting in a hurry and scribbling like a chimp with a ballpoint pen.

 

Edited December 22, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Hotrod 97]

15 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

They're very similar to Letraset dry transfers, if you ever used those.

Pay very careful attention to leveling and spacing, or they'll look like dookey.

I have found a rounded-tip steel stylus to be the best for application. Like this.

It works a lot better than the doofus in the video getting in a hurry and scribbling like a chimp with a ballpoint pen.

 

Thank you for the information Bill, especially the tool tip and technique. I'll make sure to practice on an old junker car and not apply them chimp style 

[Oldcarfan27]

Try applying the transfers to a clear decal sheet and then apply it as a decal to the model.

[Ace-Garageguy]

19 minutes ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Try applying the transfers to a clear decal sheet and then apply it as a decal to the model.

I'm curious as to why you'd do that. The whole point of using dry-transfers is to eliminate the clear carrier surrounding the character or image, and the problems with silvering, etc.

[Oldcarfan27]

You can line them up as you want them BEFORE applying them to the model.

Less risk of damaging the paintjob and decal will let you adjust the entire image to exactly where you want it.

Closely trim the clear, seal it with Solvaset and finally clear coat to finish it.

[Hotrod 97]

5 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Try applying the transfers to a clear decal sheet and then apply it as a decal to the model.

 

4 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

You can line them up as you want them BEFORE applying them to the model.

Less risk of damaging the paintjob and decal will let you adjust the entire image to exactly where you want it.

Closely trim the clear, seal it with Solvaset and finally clear coat to finish it.

Thank you for the recommendation Patrick. I’ll definitely use this method. I was a little iffy on using the dry transfer decals for that reason - not being able to line them up before application.

[tom q vaxy]

if the transfers are not fairly new, they tend to break apart (each letter). also, direct application to a compound surface might be a real challenge. the decal sounds like a better option.

[Ace-Garageguy]

There are multiple ways to do most things, and the quality of the hoped-for outcome is often the determining factor as to which method is chosen.

Many model railroaders (like me) and builders of custom real aircraft panels (like me) prefer the dry transfers specifically because, as I mentioned, they eliminate the clear carrier...which still shows between characters no matter how closely they're trimmed (and are very often still evident even after the model, complete with decals, has been cleared).

I assure everyone that well-aligned and evenly-spaced letters and graphics are entirely possible on a variety of surfaces and shapes. Careful, patient, thoughtful application is the key.

There are even a couple of reasonably-priced systems available to make custom multi-colored and complex dry-transfer graphics for a wide variety of other applications in the real world, as well as hobby-oriented, and contractors that will do it for you. Here's one DIY system:  https://decalprofx.com/

But seeing the clear decal film doesn't bother some, so the decision is entirely with the individual doing the work.

 

[Gramps46]

I built this model before Monogram released their version of it and used dry transfers on clear decal sheet for the Essex Wire lettering.  Over time the decal has yellowed.  Perhaps  if I had clear coated it that would not have happened and being used over white did not help either.

[Snake45]

17 minutes ago, Gramps46 said:

I built this model before Monogram released their version of it and used dry transfers on clear decal sheet for the Essex Wire lettering.  Over time the decal has yellowed.  Perhaps  if I had clear coated it that would not have happened and being used over white did not help either.

Try putting that model in a sunny window and see if the sunlight bleaches out the yellowing. It works a charm on unapplied old decals; it might work on applied ones too. 

[Gramps46]

4 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Try putting that model in a sunny window and see if the sunlight bleaches out the yellowing. It works a charm on unapplied old decals; it might work on applied ones too. 

Thanks Richard, I will give it try.

[Snake45]

IIRC, I used Woodland Scenics dry transfers to create the small number on the fin of this P-51. And I THINK I put them on a clear decal sheet, and then covered them with Micro Superfilm. 

[Hotrod 97]

11 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

There are multiple ways to do most things, and the quality of the hoped-for outcome is often the determining factor as to which method is chosen.

Many model railroaders (like me) and builders of custom real aircraft panels (like me) prefer the dry transfers specifically because, as I mentioned, they eliminate the clear carrier...which still shows between characters no matter how closely they're trimmed (and are very often still evident even after the model, complete with decals, has been cleared).

I assure everyone that well-aligned and evenly-spaced letters and graphics are entirely possible on a variety of surfaces and shapes. Careful, patient, thoughtful application is the key.

There are even a couple of reasonably-priced systems available to make custom multi-colored and complex dry-transfer graphics for a wide variety of other applications in the real world, as well as hobby-oriented, and contractors that will do it for you. Here's one DIY system:  https://decalprofx.com/

But seeing the clear decal film doesn't bother some, so the decision is entirely with the individual doing the work.

 

Thank you for the information and link, Bill. I can see the ways dry transfer decals are better than waterslides, as waterslides look like a decal and dry transfers look painted on.

[Hotrod 97]

10 hours ago, Gramps46 said:

I built this model before Monogram released their version of it and used dry transfers on clear decal sheet for the Essex Wire lettering.  Over time the decal has yellowed.  Perhaps  if I had clear coated it that would not have happened and being used over white did not help either.

Thank you for the reference pic!

[Hotrod 97]

10 hours ago, Snake45 said:

IIRC, I used Woodland Scenics dry transfers to create the small number on the fin of this P-51. And I THINK I put them on a clear decal sheet, and then covered them with Micro Superfilm. 

Thanks for the pics, Snake! Just curious - what scale is that P-51?

[Snake45]

53 minutes ago, Ty Gontz said:

Thanks for the pics, Snake! Just curious - what scale is that P-51?

It's the old Otaki kit (also boxed by ARII, AMT, and Airfix) in 1/48.

[tom q vaxy]

On ‎12‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 10:19 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

There are multiple ways to do most things, and the quality of the hoped-for outcome is often the determining factor as to which method is chosen.

Many model railroaders (like me) and builders of custom real aircraft panels (like me) prefer the dry transfers specifically because, as I mentioned, they eliminate the clear carrier...which still shows between characters no matter how closely they're trimmed (and are very often still evident even after the model, complete with decals, has been cleared).

I assure everyone that well-aligned and evenly-spaced letters and graphics are entirely possible on a variety of surfaces and shapes. Careful, patient, thoughtful application is the key.

There are even a couple of reasonably-priced systems available to make custom multi-colored and complex dry-transfer graphics for a wide variety of other applications in the real world, as well as hobby-oriented, and contractors that will do it for you. Here's one DIY system:  https://decalprofx.com/

But seeing the clear decal film doesn't bother some, so the decision is entirely with the individual doing the work.

 

could you show some examples you've done of a compound surface? I am lettering a boat hull in about 6 weeks and while not as intricated as a car body it does have fore-aft & keel to topside curves. the lettering will be about 9mm high but font can be chosen for its willing to bend if that matters. saving grace is a fairly smooth hull vacuumed form.  
 

will I need to gloss varnish first as with decal?

Edited December 28, 2018 by tom q vaxy
added question

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, tom q vaxy said:

... I am lettering a boat hull in about 6 weeks and while not as intricated as a car body it does have fore-aft & keel to topside curves. the lettering will be about 9mm high but font can be chosen for its willing to bend if that matters. saving grace is a fairly smooth hull vacuumed form.  
...will I need to gloss varnish first as with decal?

Following tight and complex compound curves is, as you suspect, not one of the dry transfer's strong points.

HOWEVER...the slightly compound-curved surface of your boat hull should be no problem whatsoever.

Most lettering is usually done on relatively flat surfaces anyway, and a curve in only one dimension is no problem at all.

Slightly compound surfaces are easy too. The example below is taken directly from the above-linked site. 

Far as having to shoot clear gloss prior to application goes, the answer is NO if the material you're using is relatively fresh. That can, of course, be a problem if you buy stock that's been sitting on the shelf for a long time...but I've had old Letraset sheets still working fine 20 years after they were made. A lot also depends on how the stuff has been stored.

Dry transfers are routinely used by model train guys directly on grainy wood, or wood that's painted with the grain still very much evident (but when working on soft woods, care must be taken to rub just hard enough to transfer the image, and not dent the surface in the process).

Have a look at this page for other surfaces:   https://decalprofx.com/Vertical/2_EXAMPLES/2a_Unique_Surfaces/Surfaces.html

For that matter, read through the entire site. It will give you a much better understanding of and feel for dry-transfers than I ever possibly could.