How to remove paint from spray cans when nozzle fails

[Len Woodruff]

I have several cans of Plasti-Kote T235 primer that the sprayer valve (not the nozzle) won't let any paint come out.  Anybody have suggestions to either get the can valve to work again or to remove the paint so I can use it in my air-brush?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Try searching the site for "decanting". I know it's been addressed.

Try this method:

 

[Len Woodruff]

Thanks Bill. I used site:modelcarsmag.com decanting but most of those were for a functioning can of spray paint. I can't get the paint or the propellant out of the can.

I was hoping someone used something like they use for the refrigerant cans for cars.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

10 hours ago, Len Woodruff said:

...I can't get the paint or the propellant out of the can.

I was hoping someone used something like they use for the refrigerant cans for cars.

In that case, I've done something very similar to what's described in the video below on several occasions. Pay close attention to everything he says.

DISCLAIMER: I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SUCCESS OR FAILURE OF THIS METHOD. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION. A FULL FACE SHIELD IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[Spex84]

Tremclad/Rustoleum paints are terrible for clogging like that, in my experience.  I've never succeeded in un-clogging the valve or tube. Instead I decant the paint.

I use a small awl-like tool with a screw-like tip (twist gimlet?) to just barely penetrate the can, right under the top flange. Propellant will begin to hiss out, but not much paint, provided the can is already partially empty and has been held upright for a while. I wear eye protection, gloves, and old clothing, and make sure the hole isn't going to end up pointing in my direction. I do this outside, in an old cardboard box. Once the can is pierced, I let the propellant out, then enlarge the hole and give the can a little jostle; more propellant will leak out. I let it sit until all the propellant is gone, then tip the can up and drain the paint into a suitable jar.  Then I use an airbrush to apply the paint.

Edited December 29, 2018 by Spex84

[martinfan5]

Ive done this with out brands of spray cans, I take a paper clip, straighten it out, and stick it right down the valve to dislodge whatever was stuck in there( dried paint I would guess).  It makes a bit of a mess , I would highly recommend wearing clothes you don't mind getting paint on, gloves, eye protection might be a good idea as well,  and should do it somewhere or place the can inside of something like a box or container that you wont mind getting paint on.

Edited December 29, 2018 by martinfan5

[beeRS]

I have a small pot of acetone. I place the aerosol can upside down in the acetone (nozzel removed). I leave it there for 10min - 30min. The clogged paint usually disolves away. For really stuborn clogs a toothpick can be used after the acetone has softened the clog. I use a pot with a seal tight lid. After the job is done, I seal the pot for the next use. Acetone evaporates away over night if not sealed.

Hope this helps.

[Ace-Garageguy]

7 hours ago, Spex84 said:

Tremclad/Rustoleum paints are terrible for clogging like that, in my experience.  I've never succeeded in un-clogging the valve or tube. Instead I decant the paint.

I use a small awl-like tool with a screw-like tip (twist gimlet?) to just barely penetrate the can, right under the top flange. Propellant will begin to hiss out, but not much paint, provided the can is already partially empty and has been held upright for a while. I wear eye protection, gloves, and old clothing, and make sure the hole isn't going to end up pointing in my direction. I do this outside, in an old cardboard box. Once the can is pierced, I let the propellant out, then enlarge the hole and give the can a little jostle; more propellant will leak out. I let it sit until all the propellant is gone, then tip the can up and drain the paint into a suitable jar.  Then I use an airbrush to apply the paint.

Very similar to the technique shown in the video above.

[Len Woodruff]

4 hours ago, beeRS said:

I have a small pot of acetone. I place the aerosol can upside down in the acetone (nozzel removed). I leave it there for 10min - 30min. The clogged paint usually disolves away. For really stuborn clogs a toothpick can be used after the acetone has softened the clog. I use a pot with a seal tight lid. After the job is done, I seal the pot for the next use. Acetone evaporates away over night if not sealed.

Hope this helps.

I will try this step before I go to the can video to get the paint out. 

Thanks to everyone for there posts to help with this issue. I prefer using this Plasti-Kote T235 primer but this last batch they must have changed the formula and it is really clogs easily and takes a lot longer to dry.

[landman]

8 hours ago, Spex84 said:

Tremclad/Rustoleum paints are terrible for clogging like that, in my experience.  I've never succeeded in un-clogging the valve or tube. Instead I decant the paint.

I use a small awl-like tool with a screw-like tip (twist gimlet?) to just barely penetrate the can, right under the top flange. Propellant will begin to hiss out, but not much paint, provided the can is already partially empty and has been held upright for a while. I wear eye protection, gloves, and old clothing, and make sure the hole isn't going to end up pointing in my direction. I do this outside, in an old cardboard box. Once the can is pierced, I let the propellant out, then enlarge the hole and give the can a little jostle; more propellant will leak out. I let it sit until all the propellant is gone, then tip the can up and drain the paint into a suitable jar.  Then I use an airbrush to apply the paint.

They do. Also you can't clean the nozzle by spraying with the can inverted after use. So it clogs eventually. I complained and they mailed me a dozen new nozzles. I usually store the old ones in a small jar of lacquer thinner.

[Ace-Garageguy]

17 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

...I prefer using this Plasti-Kote T235 primer but this last batch they must have changed the formula and it is really clogs easily and takes a lot longer to dry.

Same problems here. Pretty much garbage now.

EDIT: There's also the possibility the "dip-tube" will clog down in the can. This is particularly likely if the product has sat on the shelf for a long time. Solids settle out, and a lump of the stuff can get inside the bottom of the tube. Sometimes VERY vigorous shaking and striking the can bottom on a hard surface will clear it.

Other times you're SOL, so the video option is your only salvation if you want to save the material.

Edited December 29, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[randyc]

For nozzles, I used to have to paint motorcycle training ranges with parking lot stripe paint, which clogs a LOT, very thick.   Things I did - kept old working nozzles for use when nozzles clogged.  Never throw away a nozzle.  At shop between jobs I would bathe them in a bucket of carb cleaner dip stuff, then use compressed air to clean after a day or two of soaking.   Also a set of torch tip cleaners or pin vise bits can be used to clear the hole - will ikely change the hole, so don't expect it to work to paint finish work without testing first.     When i was on site, I kept a can of carb cleaner in the spray can - the little straw tube will fit in many nozzles and between the solvent and the pressure it sprayed with, would work as a quck fix if not too badly clogged.  

Biggest help on cans is to shake well and keep warm so paint doesn't get so thick.  (THE FOLLOWING IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK)  To shake paint, I bought some hose clamps, lined them with stick on foam from craft section of box store.   I put a can or bottle in the hose clamp, slide it over a blade of my reciprocating saw, tighten, and use that to shake the paint at a SLOW speed.   Has made a huge difference in how my paints work.   I have a couple sizes of clamps for the different cans and jars.  Make sure the blade is fully down in saw so when you mount the can, it doesn't hit the foot.   i think there are vids on the net on how to do this.   Maybe even on here.  

 

[martinfan5]

On 12/29/2018 at 7:35 AM, Len Woodruff said:

I will try this step before I go to the can video to get the paint out. 

Thanks to everyone for there posts to help with this issue. I prefer using this Plasti-Kote T235 primer but this last batch they must have changed the formula and it is really clogs easily and takes a lot longer to dry.

If that doesnt work I would try my suggestion next, it will work( or it should) and it wont make a big of mess as I made it sound like.

Good luck.

Edited January 1, 2019 by martinfan5

[Jon Haigwood]

I found a can opener that I can open the bottom of the can with. I hold it down in a bucket in case of a slip up, I then just puncture the can enough to release the pressure. After all the pressure has released I finish  opening the bottom then pour out the paint into a jar.(be careful, when the mixer ball rolls out it can make a big splash). The paint will still hold some gas for a couple days so I place a surgical type glove over the jar with a small pin hole in one of the fingertips. This allows gas to escape but doesn't let air back in. Your results may vary. 

[RipVan]

Try this before decanting the can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQ5V3CjpywY

Edited January 11, 2019 by RipVan