Hotrod 97 Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 These IMSA Mustangs used to be in my Dad’s collection. They were still sealed, but look like they’ve been around for a while. I’ll start with the 7/Eleven GTO The instructions look nice and simple. Decals are quite yellowed (picture doesn’t do it justice). I’ll leave them on the window sill for a few sunny days. And, the clear pieces (which I found floating around in the box, not on the sprues) are pretty scratched.
Hotrod 97 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Posted January 1, 2019 Now onto the Folger’s GTO This one seemed to be in a lot better condition than the 7/Eleven. The Folger’s GTO is molded in dark red, the 7/Eleven GTO is molded in white. The decals are a little yellowed, but not as much as the other one’s. The clear pieces are not scratched, just dusty. The goal is to have these race cars done by February. I’ll start cleaning them up tonight.
espo Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 Great subjects, I always liked this form of racing and these were really good kits. Some thoughts on the decal and "glass" issues. Last year I built an original issue of the Datsun 510 in BRE livery. I was faced with all of the problems you have noted. The decals in the window seems like a good idea and many say that is the way to go. I suggest that before you start to cut up the decals, scan them and create a computer file so that they can be printed on decal paper if the originals do not survive. As for the "glass" a product that I have used is from Meguiar's called PlasticX, it is designed for clear plastic as a cleaner and a polish. As with anything I would first try it on a very small area just to be sure. Any left over, and there should be a lot, you can use on your cars tail and headlamps Another thought on the Folgers car. Should you go with the as cast dark Red plastic you can lightly sand any mold lines with the finest grit sanding pad you have and then use the PlasticX to give it a smooth finish and then you wouldn't even need to paint the body if you didn't want to. Please post your progress on these as they are unique in any ways.
chris chabre Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 Ill be following..I love the old IMSA cars
vamach1 Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 From what I remember building one of these decades ago is you'll need a lot of decal solvent to get the decals to go on smoothly. I like that the body can be removed from the chassis to show the detail.
Hotrod 97 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Posted January 1, 2019 1 hour ago, espo said: Great subjects, I always liked this form of racing and these were really good kits. Some thoughts on the decal and "glass" issues. Last year I built an original issue of the Datsun 510 in BRE livery. I was faced with all of the problems you have noted. The decals in the window seems like a good idea and many say that is the way to go. I suggest that before you start to cut up the decals, scan them and create a computer file so that they can be printed on decal paper if the originals do not survive. As for the "glass" a product that I have used is from Meguiar's called PlasticX, it is designed for clear plastic as a cleaner and a polish. As with anything I would first try it on a very small area just to be sure. Any left over, and there should be a lot, you can use on your cars tail and headlamps Another thought on the Folgers car. Should you go with the as cast dark Red plastic you can lightly sand any mold lines with the finest grit sanding pad you have and then use the PlasticX to give it a smooth finish and then you wouldn't even need to paint the body if you didn't want to. Please post your progress on these as they are unique in any ways. Thank you for the suggestions, david! I will definitely follow through with and remember them! You can expect more progress pics soon!
Hotrod 97 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Posted January 1, 2019 56 minutes ago, vamach1 said: From what I remember building one of these decades ago is you'll need a lot of decal solvent to get the decals to go on smoothly. I like that the body can be removed from the chassis to show the detail. Thank you for the tip, Rex! I agree.
iBorg Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 Slixx made a couple of sheets for this model as well as maybe Platto. I'd look into those as replacements.
djflyer Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 I'm curious if one of those UV light pens (or UV fixtures) could be used to fix the yellowing of the decals without drying them out like being in the sun might?
Dave Van Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 I produce a few sets of decals if you want to pass on the kit decals....... FYI - most of the Flogers decals were defective so before painting the car....check the decals. I was working with RM at the time.....it was a big mess. One set......
cobraman Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 I always liked these cars but had heard they suffered from parts being warped. True ??
Hotrod 97 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Posted January 2, 2019 4 hours ago, djflyer said: I'm curious if one of those UV light pens (or UV fixtures) could be used to fix the yellowing of the decals without drying them out like being in the sun might? Very good question, David. I wonder if anyone has tried it?
Hotrod 97 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Posted January 2, 2019 4 hours ago, Dave Van said: I produce a few sets of decals if you want to pass on the kit decals....... FYI - most of the Flogers decals were defective so before painting the car....check the decals. I was working with RM at the time.....it was a big mess. One set...... Thanks for the heads-up, Dave. In what way were the decals defective?
Hotrod 97 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Posted January 2, 2019 3 hours ago, vamach1 said: I built this a few decades ago. Nice lookin build, Rex! Did you have any trouble with the decals?
Hotrod 97 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Posted January 2, 2019 3 hours ago, cobraman said: I always liked these cars but had heard they suffered from parts being warped. True ?? The 7/Eleven doesn’t seem to have any warping, but the Folger’s is slightly warped.
Dave Van Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 37 minutes ago, Ty Gontz said: Thanks for the heads-up, Dave. In what way were the decals defective? Many sheets had a under coat white that bleed very badly. Still other had a defective clear carrier.
vamach1 Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 (edited) 16 hours ago, Ty Gontz said: Nice lookin build, Rex! Did you have any trouble with the decals? Not that I remember. Did small sections and used wet paper towels. Edited January 2, 2019 by vamach1
Mark IV Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 You will need to update the "Bruce" decal to "Caitlyn"! I blew the mind of a current Roush employee who didn't know that Bruce had driven for Roush in the IMSA series.
Hotrod 97 Posted January 3, 2019 Author Posted January 3, 2019 Got the engine blocks assembled and sanded down some mold lines. I’ll start painting tomorrow.
Dave Van Posted January 3, 2019 Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) In case you want to build 'her' car from Daytona......... I have those decals too....... Edited January 3, 2019 by Dave Van
Justin Porter Posted January 3, 2019 Posted January 3, 2019 On 1/1/2019 at 3:53 PM, Dave Van said: I produce a few sets of decals if you want to pass on the kit decals....... FYI - most of the Flogers decals were defective so before painting the car....check the decals. I was working with RM at the time.....it was a big mess. One set...... Lyn St James decals are incredibly tempting... It's always awesome to see this series of kits, both the Mustangs and the later Camaros, being built.
Hotrod 97 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 Got some hand-painting done and finished detailing the chassis. The Folger’s car will have gold bolts and accents, the 7-Eleven car will have black bolts and accents.
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