ghosting of filler...

[LVZ2881]

I'm using Tamiya Polyester putty and 3M Piranha Putty, and it is ghosting thru the primer...

am i not sanding it right, or should I put a coat of sealer over it??

[my80malibu]

Generally I try to fill big gaps with styrene first(using evergreen and liquid glue like Tenax) to fill in the main area so that a minimal amount of filler is needed this is how I did these truck beds http://public.fotki.com/Gabriel12/chevy-pickup/ hope this helps

Gabriel.

[LVZ2881]

I generally use filler for filling sink marks...that seems to be where I have most of my trouble..

[Zoom Zoom]

The ghosting isn't the filler, it's the plastic reacting with the thinners in the paint, it swells up slightly, so the ghosting is from areas not affected by the thinners.

I just tried the method mentioned above; where I sanded the mold lines smooth I brushed on liquid styrene cement. I then primed the body with automotive primer and there was no ghosting of the areas I sanded.

If you want the ghosting to stop on the model you are working on you need to apply a sealer over the affected areas.

[MikeMc]

The ghosting isn't the filler, it's the plastic reacting with the thinners in the paint, it swells up slightly, so the ghosting is from areas not affected by the thinners.

I just tried the method mentioned above; where I sanded the mold lines smooth I brushed on liquid styrene cement. I then primed the body with automotive primer and there was no ghosting of the areas I sanded.

If you want the ghosting to stop on the model you are working on you need to apply a sealer over the affected areas.

100%.....I use duplacolor primer sealer as a basecoat if any body work was done....the tenax trick works great, I used it on my chopped magnum when I shaved the moldings and handles I was quite surprised by this but am quite happy now!

[Zoom Zoom]

100%.....I use duplacolor primer sealer as a basecoat if any body work was done....the tenax trick works great, I used it on my chopped magnum when I shaved the moldings and handles I was quite surprised by this but am quite happy now!

Do you use that primer sealer before or after the first coat of primer? I tried it a couple times on raw plastic and it ate it alive; very toxic to the surface. Somewhere I was told it's fine to use over other primer. It's great on resin or diecast.

I really am impressed w/the liquid styrene fix; I just shot a car in automotive paints, I had to blocksand a significant amount of material away on the C pillars and along the mold lines, and I didn't have any crazing from the Plastikote primer nor the MCW lacquer. Had I not sealed those sanded areas, the areas I sanded would have ghosted and perhaps crazed a bit.

So I've used automotive sealers (MCW and Variprime), Zinsser B-I-N, and now the liquid styrene cement. The only one I haven't rried yet is Future. I used to use Floquil Barrier, back in the days it was available. I prefer using the least toxic stuff I can find; Variprime is really nasty stuff...and it didn't work particularly well for me. MCW and Zinsser and the liquid cement all worked just fine.

[MrObsessive]

I've been using the liquid cement method for a while now because you've got to be really careful gouging out body panels to get rid of trim. You may not get the original contours back if you're not proficient in shaping the panels back to stock.

Simply sanding the trim saves a lot of headache using the method as I've described..........particularly for newbies without much experience at this.

I did gouge out the side trim with a Dremel on the '55 Ford............there was a lot of it as I had to reshape the rear fenders just the same from '56 to '55 specs.

Down the road I'm going to redo the side trim on the incorrect '58 Plymouth------the body panels are relatively flat so there's no problem of sanding an irregular shape. Of course, those that know that model also know there's a lot more that needs to be done to make that car's body accurate!

[Ron Hamilton]

I've been using the liquid cement method for a while now because you've got to be really careful gouging out body panels to get rid of trim. You may not get the original contours back if you're not proficient in shaping the panels back to stock.

Simply sanding the trim saves a lot of headache using the method as I've described..........particularly for newbies without much experience at this.

I did gouge out the side trim with a Dremel on the '55 Ford............there was a lot of it as I had to reshape the rear fenders just the same from '56 to '55 specs.

Down the road I'm going to redo the side trim on the incorrect '58 Plymouth------the body panels are relatively flat so there's no problem of sanding an irregular shape. Of course, those that know that model also know there's a lot more that needs to be done to make that car's body accurate!

Go ahead! I dare ya!

[LVZ2881]

since we are discussing sanding liquid cement....

I use Plastruct plastic weld ( the orange label)....does anyone else have a hard time sanding this stuff??

I have tenax, but cant seem to get it to work. I use a brush, but nothing seems to be on the brush when I pull it out of the tenax bottle. I have considered getting the touch and flow applicator for this stuff.

[LVZ2881]

shot a coat of duplicolor sealer over it, it fixed the problem....

[MrObsessive]

since we are discussing sanding liquid cement....

I use Plastruct plastic weld ( the orange label)....does anyone else have a hard time sanding this stuff??

I have tenax, but cant seem to get it to work. I use a brush, but nothing seems to be on the brush when I pull it out of the tenax bottle. I have considered getting the touch and flow applicator for this stuff.

I can't speak to the Plastruct Plastic Weld as I've never used it-------but I'm NOT a big fan of Tenax. It seems to lose its potency after so long as well as evaporate a little too quickly for my tastes.

My liquid glue of choice is Ambroid Pro Weld! This is great stuff, never loses it's potency, and is strong when applied styrene to styrene. Here's a slight pic of it when I needed to tighten up the door gaps on the '55 Ford................You can also see the putty I used to smooth out the trim that was ground out......

Ambroid was pulled off the shelves a while back for some reason, but it's back now...............a well stocked hobby shop should have it.

Do yourself a favor and get a touch and flow applicator! You can see it a little in the pic above.........

I use mine a lot and haven't had any trouble with it! The only caveat is I strongly recommend emptying it out after each use, otherwise the tiny metal tube will clog up on you.

Then you'll have to get a .010 brass rod to clean it out and that can be troublesome if you have trouble seeing where the hole is!

[Zoom Zoom]

since we are discussing sanding liquid cement....

I use Plastruct plastic weld ( the orange label)....does anyone else have a hard time sanding this stuff??

I used the Plastruct Bondene; white label w/orange letters, I didn't sand it, once applied I let it dry and applied primer...I let the primer take the sanding.

Some of the liquid glues evaporate very rapidly, even on the brush.

[Brendan]

Do you use that primer sealer before or after the first coat of primer? I tried it a couple times on raw plastic and it ate it alive; very toxic to the surface. Somewhere I was told it's fine to use over other primer. It's great on resin or diecast.

I really am impressed w/the liquid styrene fix; I just shot a car in automotive paints, I had to blocksand a significant amount of material away on the C pillars and along the mold lines, and I didn't have any crazing from the Plastikote primer nor the MCW lacquer. Had I not sealed those sanded areas, the areas I sanded would have ghosted and perhaps crazed a bit.

So I've used automotive sealers (MCW and Variprime), Zinsser B-I-N, and now the liquid styrene cement. The only one I haven't rried yet is Future. I used to use Floquil Barrier, back in the days it was available. I prefer using the least toxic stuff I can find; Variprime is really nasty stuff...and it didn't work particularly well for me. MCW and Zinsser and the liquid cement all worked just fine.

I use the sealer all the time on bare plastic and I've only had it damage one car, which was the Revell Corvette C6R. It etched the plastic a little, but that plastic was really soft. I haven't had any trouble since then. I usually put it on really thin and do multiple coats. And then put my primer over the top of it. Then I use a primer sealer over the top of the primer. It seems to give it a smoother surface. I've had really good luck with stuff.

[MikeMc]

Do you use that primer sealer before or after the first coat of primer? I tried it a couple times on raw plastic and it ate it alive; very toxic to the surface. Somewhere I was told it's fine to use over other primer. It's great on resin or diecast.

I really am impressed w/the liquid styrene fix; I just shot a car in automotive paints, I had to blocksand a significant amount of material away on the C pillars and along the mold lines, and I didn't have any crazing from the Plastikote primer nor the MCW lacquer. Had I not sealed those sanded areas, the areas I sanded would have ghosted and perhaps crazed a bit.

So I've used automotive sealers (MCW and Variprime), Zinsser B-I-N, and now the liquid styrene cement. The only one I haven't rried yet is Future. I used to use Floquil Barrier, back in the days it was available. I prefer using the least toxic stuff I can find; Variprime is really nasty stuff...and it didn't work particularly well for me. MCW and Zinsser and the liquid cement all worked just fine.

I'm sorta(?) anal so I read most things like LABELS and it said to use over primer so I do!

I have tried Future and the jury is still out!