QuikTimz Posted June 22, 2019 Posted June 22, 2019 (edited) Hello everyone...having recently "returned to the fold" after 30+ years, I find my options are seemingly endless now...aftermarket detailing options are everywhere, and therein lie the questions I'm posing here...When I was first into this hobby, it was pretty much the Testors Red or Blue tubes, or the small square bottle with the tiny brush on the lid...generally, you were only glueing styrene together...today, the choices are endless, and I'd rather not experiment with the parts for my current WIP...so, here goes: What glues/adhesives are you using for: 1) Basic styrene assembly? Is there something better than the old Testors Red tube for this? 2) Clear parts, like windows and lenses? The one I've read about most often is plain old Elmer's white glue (to keep from "fogging" them)... 3) Photo-etched and/or machined details? I have seen Future polish mentioned many times as an adhesive for photo-etch (perhaps because the glues would attack the painted finish most details would be attached to?)...Has anyone tried Scotch brand double sided clear tape?...most automotive trim nowadays is held on with double sided foam tape... 4) Resin parts? 5) 3D printed parts? There seem to be a myriad of CA glues, in varying viscosities, and curing accelerants: what do you like and why? What if you are attaching resin to styrene or 3D (or some other combination of those)? What are you using to hold/attach small parts to a "handle" for painting/detailing? A lot of items can't be held with an alligator clip on a skewer...thanks in advance for your input and replies...as of now, I remain, a little confused, lol... Edited June 22, 2019 by QuikTimz
Fat Brian Posted June 22, 2019 Posted June 22, 2019 For styrene red tube glue has its uses but there are also Tamiya brushable glues for applications where you want the glue to flow. For clear parts several companies makes non fogging glues and epoxies that dry clear, personally I've started using Testors waterbased clear brush paint. Photoetch and metal parts either need super glue or small pieces could use clear paint or Future as you mentioned though it will be a bit fragile. Resin and 3d parts need super glue or epoxy depending on the size of the job and the strength desired. For holding small parts I typically glue the part in question to a bamboo skewer or piece of extra sprue. Almost every part has at least one area that wont be seen once everything is together.
Dave Van Posted June 22, 2019 Posted June 22, 2019 On my desk: Testors orange tube glue Flexi-file liquid bottle cement Gorilla Glue CA small bottle w/blue cap Elmers white glue Future/Pledge floor shine- it works as a glue for non stress points like photo-etch emblems etc two part epoxy ribbon/putty
QuikTimz Posted June 24, 2019 Author Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks for your input Fat Brian & Dave Van...sounds like there's going to be several CA glues and an accelerant in my arsenal...time to do a little glue research I guess, lol
Deathgoblin Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 I use CA for most assembly, Testor's clear parts adhesive for glass/headlights and used it to attach PE parts. I'll use Testor's liquid adhesive for parts that are going to take more stress.
misterNNL Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Avoid CA' s for clear parts due to the "frosting" effect it can produce. My personal adhesive choice for that that is Micro Krystal Kleer that is water soluble and can be applied with a fine brush in very small amounts to tiny parts. It dries clear but still requires careful application to avoid squeeze out onto surrounding surfaces. I brush it in very thinly and let it dry a about 30 seconds before attaching the part.
QuikTimz Posted June 25, 2019 Author Posted June 25, 2019 Deathgoblin And misterNNL, thank you both for your input...I'm obviously gonna have to do a little more research into adhesives...
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