part 2 How to fix clear coat issue

[DDD]

Before I go any further, I wet sanded ( above the door handle) and there is still a little white texture and afraid to keep sanding as you see I already cut thru the paint So I need to repair that any thoughts? the top of the car (pic )do I sand it smooth ( without any shinny spots) all with the 1st grit and then continue on with the different grits after it's smooth or start with the 1st grit and continue on thru the grits until it's smooth? after the paint repair job of the cutting thru should I shoot another coat of clear on the whole body? then re-sand? or what? Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Snake45]

Asked and answered: 

If that wasn't good enough for you, or not what you wanted to hear, I'll shut up and MMOB now. Snake out. 

Edited July 8, 2019 by Snake45

[JollySipper]

Hey, Doug...... not sure how to help you with this paint job, but maybe I can save you some grief in the future..... I use only DupliColor primer, paint, and their Perfect-Match clear (in the small can)....... it lays so smooth that it's nearly impossible to get either runs or orange peel. This minimizes the need to sand...... I did this paint job with only DupliColor products....

and don't mind Snake, he can be a bit moody at times........

[Snake45]

18 minutes ago, JollySipper said:

and don't mind Snake, he can be a bit moody at times........

I take great offense at this. At times?  I work very hard at being moody 24/7/365. 

[DDD]

No way Snake keep the tips coming I posted this the same time I added on to the 1st post I thought that most people that reply and answer questions doesn't come back to the same post to respond to different peoples posts so I started a new one thinking I would get new lookers. I appreciate all the advice I can get, so please keep responding. Thanks also to you JollySipper for your help.Do you decant your primmer and color or just use the rattle can? I just got a new AB and really would like to become good at using it. Just need to find the right primer and paint. I'm use to a different site when you ask a question after someone else has replied to your post no one ever responds. Sorry Snake if you took offense. Thanks again.

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Doug!

Since you sanded trough the color coat, you will have to shoot some color coat again. Close pictures show rather severe orange peel on the top and on the upper edge of doors. Therefore, you may want to sand the whole car, wet, with, say, 600 grit paper. It should get rid of most peel, but don't forget to sand down your bubble "strings" along the rain gutter, or it will keep showing through any color coat you may apply later... A sanding cushion pad would help you avoid sanding streaks.

Since your blue is acrylic, a well sanded WetLook clear (lacquer) should accept it without any chemical reaction, or "wrinkling", as you might get stacking on additionnal lacquer, for example. After your new complete blue base coat is on, let it dry for a few hours, and inspect for any remnant of bubbles in problematic sections of the current paint job. If any remain, wet sand again with 600 grit, and go with a final color coat that should then flow well and bury any remnants of your current "problem". 

Then, after a couple of days of thorough drying, time for the WLClear again. Only this time, put all chances on your side, and warm a new can of WLC in very hot water for 90 secs. before shooting. The paint will flow more evenly, and get you a proper gloss WITHOUT having to put heavy coats on it. Since you are in so-Cal, and it's hot summer time, I suggest a few light mist coats, 5 or 6 minutes apart, and then a third HEAVIER final coat. 

Then, a week to gas out and cure, during which some of your gloss will seem to vanish... Typical solvent evaporation, normal process.

You may then wet sand your clear coats perfectly smooth, with a succession on 2000, 3000 (3000 3M pads are avail in auto stores). Tamya even offers finer grades of sanding medium, if you feel like it. Some electronics stores sell abrasive films, so fine you can resurface CD's or DVD's with them! Follow with polishing compound, and Meguiar's swirl remover (by hand) at the end. 

Only downside of this "re-coat" solution is you may loose some definition of caracter lines in some sections of the car: roof gutter molding, windshield moldings, etc. Foiling it later will be a litle more tricky, but as they say, countless hours of fun with styrene!!!

Good luck, and keep us posted on your operation. 

Regards, 

CT

[Snake45]

33 minutes ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Therefore, you may want to sand the whole car, wet, with, say, 600 grit paper. It should get rid of most peel, but don't forget to sand down your bubble "strings" along the rain gutter, or it will keep showing through any color coat you may apply later... After your new complete blue base coat is on, [etc etc etc]...

Only downside of this "re-coat" solution is you may loose some definition of caracter lines in some sections of the car: roof gutter molding, windshield moldings, etc. Foiling it later will be a litle more tricky, but as they say, countless hours of fun with styrene!!!

One other downside of this plan is that you will have several hours of careful and tedious work in it. Claude's plan will work just fine, but IMHO you'd be WAY ahead to just drop the thing in a tub with $1 worth of rubbing alcohol for a couple hours (maybe as much as 24, maybe much quicker than that) and strip it back to bare plastic and start over. 

And if I might offer one other piece of advice: Apparently you don't have any problems (health, environmental, moral, etc.) with using the Testor WLC lacquer (neither do I), so why mess around with that acrylic that's giving you such problems? Get a can of Model Master Nassau Blue lacquer, which is very close to the color you're using (and metallic to boot) and sprays magnificently. Lay on one or two coats of that, then two or three coats of the WLC, and I think you'll have a MUCH easier time getting a great polished out finish. 

Just sayin'....

[DDD]

Thanks Claude and Snake for your help and great advice. I don't want to sand it because this is the 2nd time stripping this model down. I'm going to soak it in 91% Isopropyl alcohol and strip it and start over!! Kinda want to stay away from rattle cans because I really want to get good at airbrushing. I might try different brand of lacquer paints or maybe enamels, not really sure yet but I'll figure something out. Like every one says you just have to find out what paints to use that works for me and practice makes perfect and I sure need a lot of practice. I really appreciate the time you guys take to help out other modelers like myself. Thanks again

[JollySipper]

11 hours ago, DDD said:

Do you decant your primmer and color or just use the rattle can?

I just spray directly from the can.... A lot of guys here may would advise that you practice airbrushing on things like interiors and engines before you dive into spraying a body.

DupliColor paints can be decanted, and there are a few threads on how to do that here.....

[DiscoRover007]

I've had the same reaction with WLC before. It has nothing to do with your acrylic base coat.  The bubbles happen when you spray too close or spray too much clear at one time. It causes it to pool and bubble up.   Just use lighter coats and you should be fine. I would recommend a switch to lacquer for the basecoat though just to have a tougher finish. Duplicolor paints have their own issues also though.

[espo]

Sometimes, not always, but sometimes it's just better to drop it in the purple pond and start over. Use the lessons learned here and start fresh on the paint.