What size pin vise bits do you use to open exhaust tips?

[Hotrod 97]

I’ve been considering getting a pin vise so I can open exhaust tips and add some more detail to certain parts. What size bit or bits would I use to do so?

[Ace-Garageguy]

This is the way I do it. There are other ways that may work just as well, but this is the best and easiest I've found so far.

1) Get a pin-vise with collets on both ends. One collet will hold the smallest bits, the other one will hold larger bits

2) Start off with a reasonably priced set of micro bits in a little steel box like this. Usually around $15.

3) I usually use something like a .015" bit to drill a pilot hole dead-center in the end of the rod I'm using for a header or exhaust tip. Dead center is important, because as you enlarge the hole with a larger bit, you don't want an off-center hole that will possibly split the side out of your exhaust tip.

4) Then I finish up with one of these double-end countersunk bits made for flush aircraft rivets, or other applications that require accurate countersunk holes. I prefer carbide if I can get it. These things are way sharper than the typical junk Chinese bits sold by the "tool" warehouses. Sharp is necessary, because it allows you to shave a very small amount out of the hole with careful hand pressure. Many other bits will tend to dig in too fast, and ruin the hole by splitting the side out. You'll be using the small point. The larger shaft makes them easy to grasp and twist with your fingers. Twist it into your pilot hole by hand, not in the pin-vise (it won't fit, anyway). Get several sizes, as they work well for making very round holes in lotsa stuff.

                                                                                                 

Twist it in until you've just got a few thousandths of wall left. Don't break out the side. Use a fine-tip black Sharpie to color inside the hole, and dress the end off lightly with 400 grit paper if necessary.

NOTE: You'll see a lot of raggedy jaggedy holes on exhausts. Master this technique and your tips will look quite real.

Edited August 31, 2019 by Ace-Garageguy

[TarheelRick]

Ace this is an excellent tutorial.  Where might one purchase the double-end countersunk bits?  One suggestion I have is for the color of the exhaust tips; black suggests the car is running a bit rich.  They should be a bit more gray.

[afx]

I like to finish the ends with a ball or tapered bit turned in my fingers or a pin vise.  Thins out the walls and gives a nice taper.

 

Edited August 31, 2019 by afx

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, afx said:

I like to finish the ends with a ball or tapered bit turned in my fingers or a pin vise.  Thins out the walls and gives a nice taper.

 

Those look really great.

1 hour ago, TarheelRick said:

 Where might one purchase the double-end countersunk bits?

Here's one source...   https://www.ebay.com/c/883214937

[Ace-Garageguy]

NOTE: The only real "trick" to doing these things is to work carefully, pay attention, and be sure you can see exactly what your tool of choice is doing (my work looks a lot better since I started using a magnifying visor).

Not a trick at all...just implemented common sense.

[Tom Geiger]

You can get this complete set of bits at Hobby Lobby.  I believe it's a bit cheaper than the price tag here, AND you can use your 40% off coupon.  This box works very well to keep the bits in order and from getting lost!

I know someone mentioned getting the pin vice with two sizes of collett for the different size bits.  If you find the smaller bits still swim in the holder, I have glued them into scale heater hose.  This works well in the larger collett.  

First thing,  start your hole by making an indent with the tip of an exacto knife. Once you have the starter indent, start with a smaller bit, then once you have the depth, use a larger bit for the final hole.  You don't have to go deep at all for the illusion of an exhaust pipe. In fact the deeper you go the more apt you are to ruin your pipe since you aren't drilling exactly straight and could pop out the side eventually.

[gman]

1 hour ago, Tom Geiger said:

You can get this complete set of bits at Hobby Lobby.  I believe it's a bit cheaper than the price tag here, AND you can use your 40% off coupon.  This box works very well to keep the bits in order and from getting lost!

I know someone mentioned getting the pin vice with two sizes of collett for the different size bits.  If you find the smaller bits still swim in the holder, I have glued them into scale heater hose.  This works well in the larger collett.  

First thing,  start your hole by making an indent with the tip of an exacto knife. Once you have the starter indent, start with a smaller bit, then once you have the depth, use a larger bit for the final hole.  You don't have to go deep at all for the illusion of an exhaust pipe. In fact the deeper you go the more apt you are to ruin your pipe since you aren't drilling exactly straight and could pop out the side eventually.

I haven't seen those at my closest Hobby Lobby (across the line in the US). If that is true, it is a great deal- I'll have to look next time.

https://www.jensentools.com/x-acto-circuit-board-micro-drill-bit-set-with-stand/p/173-423

^^ I bought a set like this many years ago at a local Canadian hobby shop, and if I remember right paid considerably more.

I have a few pin vises for different tasks, some for tiny bits that work with the smallest sizes, some with larger collets. They are usually pretty inexpensive and it doesn't hurt to have a few different ones for various tasks.

[espo]

Like so many others, I also start with a fine drill and work up to something larger. Another thought on the finished tip of the exhaust. I'll drill the hole deep enough that the tip of a #11 blade can be partially inserted in the open end. Gently turn the blade 360 degrees in the end until you have thinned the material as much as you can without going through. This should give you a very realistic looking thin exhaust tip and you also may be able to compensate for any irregularities in the shape of the hole.  

[Muncie]

7 hours ago, espo said:

Like so many others, I also start with a fine drill and work up to something larger. Another thought on the finished tip of the exhaust. I'll drill the hole deep enough that the tip of a #11 blade can be partially inserted in the open end. Gently turn the blade 360 degrees in the end until you have thinned the material as much as you can without going through. This should give you a very realistic looking thin exhaust tip and you also may be able to compensate for any irregularities in the shape of the hole.  

Yep, that's the way I drill them out.  It's difficult for me get the drill started in the center.   The point of the knife blade makes it possible to remove material closer to the edge of the hole and get it lined up for a uniform thickness.  A sharp blade works best.

[Hotrod 97]

Thank all of you very much for the information!

 

On 8/31/2019 at 12:04 PM, Tom Geiger said:

You can get this complete set of bits at Hobby Lobby.  I believe it's a bit cheaper than the price tag here, AND you can use your 40% off coupon.  This box works very well to keep the bits in order and from getting lost!

Tom, I’ll definitely look for that next time I’m at HL.

[misterNNL]

I seem to remember someone on the forums posting a really clever method for being sure you start in the center and get a nice clean result. IIRC they start by finding a small piece of metal tubing that fits snugly over the exhaust pipe being drilled. Next insert a drill bit into that tubing that fits snugly and work slowly. Personally I would test this this on some scrap pieces first.

[espo]

Another idea for your exhaust tip. Most OEM and almost all after market exhaust system will have a chrome tip if some sort. I use some aluminum tubing that just fits over the end of the exhaust. I use a miniature pipe cutter to cut the tip to length. You can easily add a flair to the end using a nail to shape the aluminum tip. A little polishing compound and it will look like a chrome tip and the thickness looks in scale.   

[Mike Chernecki]

On 8/31/2019 at 1:02 PM, gman said:

I haven't seen those at my closest Hobby Lobby (across the line in the US). If that is true, it is a great deal- I'll have to look next time.

https://www.jensentools.com/x-acto-circuit-board-micro-drill-bit-set-with-stand/p/173-423

^^ I bought a set like this many years ago at a local Canadian hobby shop, and if I remember right paid considerably more.

I have a few pin vises for different tasks, some for tiny bits that work with the smallest sizes, some with larger collets. They are usually pretty inexpensive and it doesn't hurt to have a few different ones for various tasks.

Princess Auto sells the bits Ace mentions. You can also find the drill bits at Lee Valley.

[gman]

5 hours ago, Mike Chernecki said:

Princess Auto sells the bits Ace mentions. You can also find the drill bits at Lee Valley.

I do have a pretty comprehensive set, and should I break a small bit, I have replaced them with Walther bits sold as singles or pairs sourced from a local model train shop.

I have been in to Princess Auto and Lee Valley, wouldn't have thought to look there for micro drill bits- good to know. I do appreciate a bargain, and as I get in to Hobby Lobby every 2-3 weeks, buying one as a spare with their 40% off coupon makes the price "right." 

[glue fumes]

On 9/4/2019 at 6:13 AM, misterNNL said:

I seem to remember someone on the forums posting a really clever method for being sure you start in the center and get a nice clean result. IIRC they start by finding a small piece of metal tubing that fits snugly over the exhaust pipe being drilled. Next insert a drill bit into that tubing that fits snugly and work slowly. Personally I would test this this on some scrap pieces first.

I was thinking the same thing, but the part I would add is to have another piece of tubing that fits over the bit but inside the other tube. This gives you a perfectly centered hole.

[misterNNL]

22 hours ago, glue fumes said:

I was thinking the same thing, but the part I would add is to have another piece of tubing that fits over the bit but inside the other tube. This gives you a perfectly centered hole.

Exactly correct!

[peteski]

On 9/4/2019 at 9:37 AM, espo said:

Another idea for your exhaust tip. Most OEM and almost all after market exhaust system will have a chrome tip if some sort. I use some aluminum tubing that just fits over the end of the exhaust. I use a miniature pipe cutter to cut the tip to length. You can easily add a flair to the end using a nail to shape the aluminum tip. A little polishing compound and it will look like a chrome tip and the thickness looks in scale.   

I use the same technique, but I use stainless steel hypodermic tubing.  It has very thin (scale thickness) walls, and it has a very realistic sheen.  I bought my supply of tubing long time ago from Small Parts Inc.  They got bought out and butchered by Amazon, but if you Google "hypodermic tubing" you should find some places to get it from.

[robertw]

On 9/4/2019 at 7:37 AM, espo said:

Another idea for your exhaust tip. Most OEM and almost all after market exhaust system will have a chrome tip if some sort. I use some aluminum tubing that just fits over the end of the exhaust. I use a miniature pipe cutter to cut the tip to length. You can easily add a flair to the end using a nail to shape the aluminum tip. A little polishing compound and it will look like a chrome tip and the thickness looks in scale.   

I've also been doing this for some years and it makes a much more realistic tail pipe, after all nothing can replace metal like metal. As aluminum tubing is a fairly soft  it is also easy to use a metal file to create a diagonal tip as is common on many cars. I also thin the inside  of the aluminum tube using round files or my dremel  with appropriate grinders. Since your new tip is metal it can be thinned  to a much finer edge then a plastic one can be. Unless your model is fresh off the showroom floor I'll also slip a little paint into the inside of the tube. The only difficulty I've had is creating curved ends on the tip.

[espo]

6 hours ago, robertw said:

I've also been doing this for some years and it makes a much more realistic tail pipe, after all nothing can replace metal like metal. As aluminum tubing is a fairly soft  it is also easy to use a metal file to create a diagonal tip as is common on many cars. I also thin the inside  of the aluminum tube using round files or my dremel  with appropriate grinders. Since your new tip is metal it can be thinned  to a much finer edge then a plastic one can be. Unless your model is fresh off the showroom floor I'll also slip a little paint into the inside of the tube. The only difficulty I've had is creating curved ends on the tip.

I will use a large construction type nail to give the tip a little flair, what we used to call "Bell Tips" since I think the style originated in the Bell California area in the early to mid '60's. The nail is a hard metal and you needn't worry able damaging it. Also the taper on the end of the nails point is steep enough that it will flair the tip easily. I have also used a Micro Mart miter box designed for cutting plastic and cut the end of the aluminum tubing at a 45 degree angle. The only draw back is that it's hard on the saw and it will dull the cutting edge over time.      

[Greg Myers]

A ball end pin vise Offers the user a vise that is more comfortable to use than conventional hex head vises. The rounded head fits comfortably into the palm of one's hand making it much easier to drill, ream or twist.

X-Acto used to have some like this but i couldn't find any on line.

Edited September 15, 2019 by Greg Myers

[TarheelRick]

I've had this one for many years and would not trade it for anything.  I don't remember where I got it or how much it cost, but I know it was worth every penny.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Google IMAGE-search "ball-handle pin vise". Bazillions.

[Greg Myers]

But NO X-Acto with wooden ball end

[Ace-Garageguy]

8 minutes ago, Greg Myers said:

But NO X-Acto with wooden ball end

I would wager $10 the X-Acto version was bought-in, not actually manufactured in the X-Acto factory, and I'd further wager an identical unit is still available under a different label.