Window Seals

[StevenGuthmiller]

I thought that this might be worth trying and so far it doesn't look too bad.

 

It just popped into my mind to try very thin strips of electrical tape laid along the edges of the glass to replicate window seals.

I don't know how long it will stick, but I thought it would be worth a try.

If it fails to adhere for the duration, it will be easily removed.

No harm, no foul.

 

 

Steve

 

 

[dmthamade]

Looks good!! Black decal material too, maybe? Check refs, sealing materials are inside the glass sometimes.  On most aircraft, seal is on inside, looks "off" when applied on outside.

Don

[thatz4u]

Nice idea, & cheap too, win win

[StevenGuthmiller]

[StevenGuthmiller]

11 minutes ago, dmthamade said:

Looks good!! Black decal material too, maybe? Check refs, sealing materials are inside the glass sometimes.  On most aircraft, seal is on inside, looks "off" when applied on outside.

Don

As far as I can tell, the seals were visible on the '65/'66 Plymouth.

Hard to tell in a lot of photos, but they look pretty evident on this '66.

 

 

Steve

 

[Bucky]

I'd like to see ya build one like that, Steve! It would be a departure for ya!

[dmthamade]

7 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

As far as I can tell, the seals were visible on the '65/'66 Plymouth.

Hard to tell in a lot of photos, but they look pretty evident on this '66.

 

 

Steve

 

 

Yup!! As far as I can remember, visible on outside on older vehicles. Newer stuff, sealing glue on inside, sometimes. Like I said, check refs. Been thinking about small details like this since I started car models. As In any genre of models, small details make the build. I thought of black fine point Sharpie for the seals, small things to learn...

Don

[restoman]

I used electrical tape a few times and it looked ok. I did find that, over time, the tape seemed to shrink slightly and left a bit of an adhesive edge. That was a good place for dust to stick. Now, the cars are all in their own displays, so it's a non-issue.

I liked the look of black pinstripe tape better, though...

[ewetwo]

What would happen if you put a black sharpie along the very edge. Would that radiate into the edge of the clear plastic to give the same look?

[peteski]

Electrical tape (even the more expensive 3M brand) will shrink in time and also the adhesive gets gooey and soft after few years.  At least in my experience (in its as-intended electrical application).  The tape is stretchy vinyl.  The shrinkage might be due to the fact that the tape stretched when it is being pulled from the roll. It probably takes some time for it to relax and get back to its original size.  But even then, the adhesive meltdown can be a problem when it is used on a model.

[935k3]

Try 1/64" drafting tapes. The crepe type is more flexible around bends. I used it around the BMF on the window trim on this BMW

 

Edited September 19, 2019 by 935k3

[peteski]

Drafting tape? I like that. IIRC, is paper based, and probably thinner than electrical tape.  If the adhesive is stable, it is all good.

[935k3]

adhesive is good. Google it.

[dmthamade]

Do you apply this before or after the clear coat. Just wondering if adding a sealer on top would help to stabilize and lock the tape into place. 

Don

BTW, that BMW looks great!!

Edited September 19, 2019 by dmthamade

[Tom Geiger]

 

The window gasket on Mopars of that era was rubber and the "chrome" was actually a mylar insert that was tucked into the gasket to expand it in place.  The mylar finish would flake in time and become a dull plastic.  Back when I had my '66 Valiant, I just painted it black and my entire seal was black against my silver car.  It's reproduced today.

Edited September 19, 2019 by Tom Geiger

[StevenGuthmiller]

Thanks for all of the input guys.

This was just kind of a thought that came to mind, so I thought it was worth a try.

In the future, I might just mask and paint.

As a matter of fact, I might give that a shot on this one.

 

 

Steve

[stitchdup]

Finger nail art tape comes in matt black, andf its very thin like bmf with a coating of colour. I've only managed to get the matt black in multi packs of various colours though. The packs I have are from amazon and were around 5 quid a pack

[Bucky]

Would this product work for the window seals?

[Luc Janssens]

Some of my friends use, black masking tape, cut into strips to mimic the rubber seals.

 

[Snake45]

I've seen a few guys do the black window sealing on the vent windows, and IMHO that REALLY adds a lot to a model. I've even tried it myself a time or two. Some kits are easier to do this with than others. 

[randyc]

Here's my most recent way of doing it which is completely inaccurate for real cars, but works for me.  See link.   I hold the glass in place and run black sharpie around the frame on the OUTSIDE of the glass.  A couple coats usually gets it black enough.  It turns out glossy enough to not be obviously on the outside.  It's a bit wide, but I haven't been able to get it right using my smaller sharpie.   This is just regular old marking sharpie with a reasonably good point.   Then I can go inside glass if needed and paint back a little to get complete coverage.   I just don't have the skil;s to freehand it inside the glass - always ends up shaky and/or uneven.  This gives me a consistent black line around the outer edge.

I have done this before paint and after foiling, but before gluing window in.   If you do it after foil, you can use alcohol to clean the black off the foil.  If unpainted, you can just paint over it during the paint process.   So far, I'm about 3 or 4 cars into this technique and still looking for ways to improve on it.  I just asked myself... how would SNAKE do this with a  SHARPIE????  LOL  He's my Sharpie hero.

Masking, trimming and painting usually ends up incorrect or I slip and cut into glass where it shows.   This works for my builds.  Looks okay on shelf and that black line around the windows adds more dimension to the build.

Look at photo with Chevy beside the Pontiac diecast and I think it shows the difference even a thick seal makes.   That photo is a couple replies down.  

 

Edited September 19, 2019 by randyc

[StevenGuthmiller]

Enough responses here got me worried about the long term viability of the electrical tape so I've already removed it and gone with masking and painting.

It's really not difficult to do, but it's quite hard to see.

I'm beginning to wonder if it's really even worth doing.

 

 

3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I've seen a few guys do the black window sealing on the vent windows, and IMHO that REALLY adds a lot to a model. I've even tried it myself a time or two. Some kits are easier to do this with than others. 

I'm going to try that as well.

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

[dmthamade]

Just from the examples I've seen here, I think it is worth it. It's small details that really make any build whether it be aircraft, armor, ships, figures etc etc. Like the wiper blades, should have a fine black line. PITA to do I imagine, but would add so much.

Don

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I've seen a few guys do the black window sealing on the vent windows, and IMHO that REALLY adds a lot to a model. I've even tried it myself a time or two. Some kits are easier to do this with than others. 

I do like the look of this Snake.

I just did the front edge and half of the lower edge where the rubber would be on the outside.

 

 

Steve

 

[James2]

11 hours ago, Bucky said:

Would this product work for the window seals?

This product does not work at all!