Rich Chernosky Posted December 23, 2019 Posted December 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Dann Tier said: absolutely BRILLIANT, Bud!!!!.....this build is so fun to watch!!! Ditto from me, you are doing a helluve job there.
beeRS Posted December 26, 2019 Posted December 26, 2019 Outstanding work! This is going to turn out to be something really special. Those vac-formed headlamp covers will make a world of differerce. Please keep up the amazing work. I'm learning loads.
Funkychiken Posted December 27, 2019 Posted December 27, 2019 Looking good, it'd be a shocker to get this done by year end!
89AKurt Posted January 2, 2020 Author Posted January 2, 2020 On 12/23/2019 at 10:30 AM, Rich Chernosky said: Ditto from me, you are doing a helluve job there. Appreciate that! On 12/26/2019 at 3:16 AM, beeRS said: Outstanding work! This is going to turn out to be something really special. Those vac-formed headlamp covers will make a world of differerce. Please keep up the amazing work. I'm learning loads. Thank you! Oh great, nothing like more pressure (that's a pun with vacuum), glad you are getting something out of this. On 12/27/2019 at 11:41 AM, Funkychiken said: Looking good, it'd be a shocker to get this done by year end! Thank you. I'm aiming for this month.
89AKurt Posted January 2, 2020 Author Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) Got the other headlight done. Took about an hour, amazing I ever finish a model. ? Testing with the vacuum-formed cover, not magnifying glass distortion, but wish it wasn't so bumpy. Made one door hinge. After looking at photos of the real car, saw there is no lip along the front, removed what I glued in there. Next was drilling holes for the fusee chain (100 year old pocket watch part). The door panel and jamb is a tight fit, and deep, I didn't want any binding, so thought the chain would give some slop. Open: Closed, good, it stays closed. PITA to get the chain in the holes, trick is to pull tight. Temporarily glued in with Testors, should come out, re-drill the holes. Really have to look to see they aren't realistic. I also don't care how the chain folds up when the door is closed, seems like this worked. ? Since I opened the trunk, I now *have to* make a tool kit, and manual. Will use lead-like wine bottle foil, have most of the tools from the Fujimi kit. When I make the license plate, will also print this to scale. So I'm getting done this month. ? Edited January 2, 2020 by 89AKurt
89AKurt Posted January 4, 2020 Author Posted January 4, 2020 9 hours ago, Dann Tier said: FREAKING MASTERPIECE to be sure!!!! Not yet, be patient master. Worked on two pet peeve things, molded on pedals (at least it has pedals!) and window cranks. First thing was to remove the pedals, started with the Dremel, then used some new tools that are scrapers, so glad I discovered those! Before: Sheet styrene, photo-etch Tamiya saw, steel ruler and used the caliper handle for a guide, scraped grooves. I try to take pictures of the tools used. Temporary glued in with Tacky glue, not only the pedals but the foot rest thing, like what is with that anyway? Window crank, carefully cut off, almost lost it when it practically broke off! I just sawed under the latch handle. Decided not to make a working trunk latch, used two tiny magnets. I searched for, took screenshots, and am going to print info plates, such as serial number, firing order, oil, air filter for the engine bay. Then I have to do the drivers door.
Dann Tier Posted January 4, 2020 Posted January 4, 2020 Simply BRILLIANT again, Bud!!!.....love the saw scraping technique!!, as well as how to make the door hardware look more realistic without too much work!!...i'm gonna steal that stuff!!!...lol
89AKurt Posted January 5, 2020 Author Posted January 5, 2020 10 hours ago, Dann Tier said: Simply BRILLIANT again, Bud!!!.....love the saw scraping technique!!, as well as how to make the door hardware look more realistic without too much work!!...i'm gonna steal that stuff!!!...lol Thank you, consider it a trade. ? Wanted to get some of the parts painted, been plugging away slowly, so I wouldn't get permanent fingerprints. The brake disks were painted with Alclad steel, I really like that paint. Masked with Scotch tape, then airbrushed gold, then black. I don't really believe the instructions, with "metallic black" for the valve covers, air filter, springs, and exhaust tips. I know the real car valve covers are crinkle flat black, so painted semi-gloss black, then low pressure dribble sprayed flat black, then when I did the springs with a mixture of s-g black with drops of steel did more dribble spray. Will judge later when everything is assembled. Started on painting the tools from the Fujimi Daytona kit that I did last century.
DukeE Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Looks great. That is a footrest btw. Scale trunk latch would be pita, as they were incredibly tiny to start with. Crackle cam covers correct. Unsure if flocking fine enough to put on, then semi black over that. Master cylinder booster looks perfect.
Dann Tier Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Love how its looking!!.....keep it up, Bud!!!!
89AKurt Posted January 5, 2020 Author Posted January 5, 2020 5 hours ago, DukeE said: Looks great. That is a footrest btw. Scale trunk latch would be pita, as they were incredibly tiny to start with. Crackle cam covers correct. Unsure if flocking fine enough to put on, then semi black over that. Master cylinder booster looks perfect. I think of limousines when I see that. ? Thank you. 5 hours ago, Dann Tier said: Love how its looking!!.....keep it up, Bud!!!! Appreciate it, meanwhile you have how many going at once? ? Engine is basically done. I wanted to finish something ? before diving into the other door. I'm debating about doing plug wires, the twin distributors have no plug things sticking up like your normal V8, would be easy to glue on sideways, but could end up looking goobered on. I also noticed the air cleaner covers the top valve cover completely. All the parts fit well, but no clearance between the front components. I think this project deserves the detail. I want to put in the yellow tubing, battery cables, washer bag, spec plates, heater hoses, maybe hose clamps, and steering shaft and box if I can figure that out. It's all a maybe. ?
Dann Tier Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Say what you will about Italeri, but i think their kits are FANTASTIC...more cleanup, and filling, but details are usually darn nice!!!....you have a killer engine there, Bud!!!!........by the way, to answer your question, i have 13 builds in Active mode.
DukeE Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 You can fudge the wires to the plugs with a short lead. The tube the wires are in tapers a bit towards the front. Maybe cut down strip wiring out of dead computer for brief run to lead tube? I hate wiring, so I never do it. Another minor thing, the hydraulic fluid reservoirs are semi opaque. Maybe a fluid level in them? You guys knew that I'd guess, but it always looked funny with empty fluid reservoirs. Even fresh they still have a little color. God. I'm SG. Sorry. At least it's not a post GM crpwagon. Still in awe of you guys. Quality and quantity. So much win.
VanSpence Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Fantastic detail on that engine. Looking very good. The distributors look like several of the wires go into the sides and would be pretty easy to do but you would need to make a bulge on the top for the ones on the top for it to look right. As it looks like they will be pretty easy to see, you definitely don't want them just goobered on. The wires all fit into a tube that runs along the side of the block? That is a pretty interesting way of doing it. Very clean looking.
DukeE Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 All the wires go out the side. Not that I like these motors. This pic may help, car is wrong in a few areas, your photos are correct. But you can see distributors better, and tapering plug tube that probably is imperceptible in scale, which means you'll dupe it Carb detail sorely lacking, but airbox obviates that. If need be, Norm's 250TR carbs are fairly close, but stacks won't fit with airbox. Hose clamps were usually those wonky paperclip things that failed. Original oil filters were Baldwins And because doors, here's shot of jamb on door. Dear god please don't make warning light work
Nells250 Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 One of my favorite Italeri kits! Built mine many moons ago... I think this was the kit where I learned not to add too much glue between the taillight panel and the rear quarters!! By the way, in case I have some in my files, are you still looking for any detail pics?
89AKurt Posted January 5, 2020 Author Posted January 5, 2020 7 hours ago, Dann Tier said: Say what you will about Italeri, but i think their kits are FANTASTIC...more cleanup, and filling, but details are usually darn nice!!!....you have a killer engine there, Bud!!!!........by the way, to answer your question, i have 13 builds in Active mode. Overall, this is a very nice kit, after burning the tires. ? I discovered more ejection pin marks when doing the two pipes at the front, easy enough to remove and paint. Only 13 eh? ? Thanks again for your support! 6 hours ago, DukeE said: You can fudge the wires to the plugs with a short lead. The tube the wires are in tapers a bit towards the front. Maybe cut down strip wiring out of dead computer for brief run to lead tube? I hate wiring, so I never do it. Another minor thing, the hydraulic fluid reservoirs are semi opaque. Maybe a fluid level in them? You guys knew that I'd guess, but it always looked funny with empty fluid reservoirs. Even fresh they still have a little color. God. I'm SG. Sorry. At least it's not a post GM crpwagon. Still in awe of you guys. Quality and quantity. So much win. I noticed that tube, when stretching sprue there is always a taper at each end, so that's an easy task. The brake booster part is really inaccurate, but I'm going to distract by adding other stuff. ? Dann also details the fluid, so thanks alot. ? Thank you. 6 hours ago, VanSpence said: Fantastic detail on that engine. Looking very good. The distributors look like several of the wires go into the sides and would be pretty easy to do but you would need to make a bulge on the top for the ones on the top for it to look right. As it looks like they will be pretty easy to see, you definitely don't want them just goobered on. The wires all fit into a tube that runs along the side of the block? That is a pretty interesting way of doing it. Very clean looking. Thank you too! I think after putting the wires on, judicious superglue application, a little sanding, then paint should be good enough. Wire "loom" will negate getting firing order correct, and the coolant pipe header is really a trip. Funny thing, there is no return coolant hose to the radiator. 5 hours ago, DukeE said: All the wires go out the side. Not that I like these motors. This pic may help, car is wrong in a few areas, your photos are correct. But you can see distributors better, and tapering plug tube that probably is imperceptible in scale, which means you'll dupe it Carb detail sorely lacking, but airbox obviates that. If need be, Norm's 250TR carbs are fairly close, but stacks won't fit with airbox. Hose clamps were usually those wonky paperclip things that failed. Original oil filters were Baldwins [...] And because doors, here's shot of jamb on door. Dear god please don't make warning light work Thanks for the help, have not seen these pictures, stole two. The oil filters and battery are all colors, so not going to worry about that. I'm actually glad the air filter is so huge, it does hide the simplified carbs. I have one of Norm's 250 engine kits, amazing workmanship. Good to know about hose clamps, I was going to just do chrome mylar, not the drive-me-crazy MCG photo-etch. Now I will *have to* add the door light, thanks alot. ? 24 minutes ago, Nells250 said: One of my favorite Italeri kits! Built mine many moons ago... I think this was the kit where I learned not to add too much glue between the taillight panel and the rear quarters!! By the way, in case I have some in my files, are you still looking for any detail pics? If you used Testors cement, that would be a problem. I superglued. If I see any more pictures, I might never finish. ? You happen to know where the oil spec plate goes? I'm adding some of the plates that I've seen in photos, saw it as an item to buy. I will use this for the license plate:
Nells250 Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 I did look to see what I have in my files for 275's and was surprised to see I have indeed seen a Spyder, alas a long time ago when my digital camera was lacking quality... also, the car didn't have any doors/etc open. The only other two I have seen in the flesh also didn't have anything open. So that only leaves Ye Ol' Internet, I am afraid... As for that oil plate, perhaps other cars within the 275 line could help? (like the GTS?)
DukeE Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Found it for ya The dry sump filler is knurled cap near battery. Correct battery in pic below. The top pic shows the vac booster, color is dead on. Washer bag is black, this car is a NART alloy coupe, so not series.
Nells250 Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 Couldn't find that oil plate... you'd think it would be mounted right near either the filler or filters! ButHERE'S an odd detail for you!! ? Probably too small to reproduce in 1/24... Assuming you saw this listing: https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/mc16/monaco/lots/r240-1968-ferrari-275-gts4-nart-spider-by-scaglietti/238806
Nells250 Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 YAY Duke!! Now he knows where to look! Sorta seems like a location that would cause a lot of wear from the hose... Maybe the tags got lost?
Nells250 Posted January 5, 2020 Posted January 5, 2020 YUP, now that I know where to look also, THERE IT IS:
DukeE Posted January 6, 2020 Posted January 6, 2020 LOL. That's an Automobile Club of Italy membership sticker, expires in Dec. 65, so too early for 4 cam. Fun detail though, like an AAA sticker. The carb photos are a 3 carb 2 cam, so great for a Cal or non-Comp SWB build. Sorry I'm posting this stuff so much. Just spent a lot of time with these things over the years.
89AKurt Posted January 6, 2020 Author Posted January 6, 2020 6 hours ago, Nells250 said: I did look to see what I have in my files for 275's and was surprised to see I have indeed seen a Spyder, alas a long time ago when my digital camera was lacking quality... also, the car didn't have any doors/etc open. The only other two I have seen in the flesh also didn't have anything open. So that only leaves Ye Ol' Internet, I am afraid... As for that oil plate, perhaps other cars within the 275 line could help? (like the GTS?) Thanks. If you happen to have your built kit, and it's not a pain, can you take a closeup picture of the engine bay? I want to see how cramped it is, before I commit to adding more stuff that would be impossible to fit, much less see. 6 hours ago, DukeE said: Found it for ya The dry sump filler is knurled cap near battery. Correct battery in pic below. The top pic shows the vac booster, color is dead on. Washer bag is black, this car is a NART alloy coupe, so not series. [...] Very good, thought so when I saw other pictures. So the yellow tube is fuel line, and I see a fuel pump. That top picture appears to be unrestored, the problem with perfect restorations is they change colors and finishes. Good to see the battery, now the problem is the two long caps vs. 6 round caps; I painted the caps red, which is not correct but adds eye candy. I also noticed the added shutoff switch, nice touch that is tempting to add. Great shots of the distributor caps, should have drilled before gluing on, can make the top shape and add. I'm also seeing the headers are white, or steel, or flat black. ? Now Im wondering what the cap by the battery is for, looks the same as the fuel cap. That other air filter is on a different engine, check out the valve cover. Now the question is, shall I worry about the lower radiator hose, there must be one.
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