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Posted

I am working on a project.  These marker lights came out of my parts box of parts we had when I was a kid.  One of the first models I built was a 68 or 69 Chevy pickup that was orange on the box art and had forestry service decals on it.  It had some tools and a bedcover.  This mold will make four sets.  They will be made from a clear resin and I will add some HOK gold tint to the mix.  I was informed by a Smooth-On rep that I might have a better chance of successfully casting clear if I pressurize the silicone to it's curing point.  That means it will cure in a pressure pot and that means more work  to learn a different way to hopefully get good parts made.  clear resin is a real pita.  I really dislike small parts that are cast on single sided molds or parts that are attached to a sprue.  Flash around the part should be as thin as skin.

cab lights 1.jpg

cab lights 2.jpg

Posted

If these turn out half as good as the bodies you cast, we are in for a real treat! Thanks for letting us know what you have "cooking" in that pressure pot Greg!

Posted (edited)

OK, so this seemingly simple mold has been a real PITA!!  I had left the mold under pressure over night.  When I pulled it out it was still a bit sticky so I put it in the box that I warm clay in.  When I pulled it out it had became bloated.  I poked it with my exacto knife to see if there was a air pocket, this has happened before.  It did not effect the lump so I started all over again.  Once again I pressure cast it to a successful cure.  I mixed a small amount of silicone to fill it up  thinking that it might fully de air since it was not a very thick pour.  But it failed as well.  Those dark spots are air bubbles that have formed next to the part.  This is why vacuuming or de airing the silicone is important in my book.  Under pressure these parts might form small warts on the parts and I don't want that to happen.  Now I will mix a small amount of silicone and put enough in to just coat the surface of the mold and let it mostly cure then add more to fill later

cab lights 3.jpg

cab lights 4.jpg

Edited by Greg Wann
Posted
On 10/6/2019 at 10:08 AM, redneckrigger said:

Great effort, Greg. Count me in for a few sets once you get them done!

Thanks,  I see you might have a Yamaha.  Back when I was young I had a RD350, a two stroke with a six speed gearbox.  That bike was really fast too.  I was told that bike is worth about twenty grand today.  I sold it to a ex GF for 500.00.  It was a real red beauty.  I don't miss either of them. LOL

Posted
On 10/7/2019 at 11:23 PM, Greg Wann said:

Thanks,  I see you might have a Yamaha.  Back when I was young I had a RD350, a two stroke with a six speed gearbox.  That bike was really fast too.  I was told that bike is worth about twenty grand today.  I sold it to a ex GF for 500.00.  It was a real red beauty.  I don't miss either of them. LOL

Yeah, had a 1973 RD350 for a bit.   Wish I still did! But, we still do have the 1978 XS750E I bought new in 1978.  Cool old timer for sure!

Posted (edited)

20191011_180805.jpg

 

The mold finally turned out good.  I used House Of Kolors gold pagan dye to make these marker lights.  I think the dye makes a nice amber color.

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Edited by Greg Wann
Posted

Thank you, Gary.  A little polishing and some BMF or the chrome pen and your rig will look very nice.  Not certain if there are different styles and sizes available to copy.  I could do red or other colors too.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

These look great. I would like to order several sets when you decide to offer them. I build scratch built antique travel trailers and use these as clearance lights for the front. I also need these same lights cast in clear red for the rear sections. Is that possible?Please post the availability on the forums when ready.

Edited by misterNNL
Forgotten detail.

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