White Freightliner started

[JerseeJerry55]

Hello all hope everyone’s well. Started my White Freightliner 2n1. Decided to do it as a daycab. Will most likely do it as a dual drive unit. Have the roof deflector from the parts box. Will have to scratch build the supports. A good friend has suggested using Evergreen rod #222, channel #264, and angle #294 to make the support structure. Since I have never scratch built anything I am apprehensive but will try. Looking forward to the build. 

[TECHMAN]

???

Great Start!!!!   Are you using the kit's Cummins engine, or???   

DJ

[JerseeJerry55]

9 minutes ago, TECHMAN said:

???

Great Start!!!!   Are you using the kit's Cummins engine, or???   

DJ

Thanks D.J. Just the stock NHC-250. Going to do it as a bare bones fleet unit single stack. Nothing special except for chrome wheels all around.

Edited November 16, 2019 by JerseeJerry55

[DRIPTROIT 71]

Good start! Looking forward to more! I like the idea for this project!

[leafsprings]

Nice that this kit is back. I'm working on one as well, trying to improve on the contour of the front fenders to resemble the photo on the side of the box. Planning on a fleet truck with more common steel wheels which are luckily available in the aftermarket.

Edited November 17, 2019 by leafsprings

[JerseeJerry55]

16 hours ago, leafsprings said:

Nice that this kit is back. I'm working on one as well, trying to improve on the contour of the front fenders to resemble the photo on the side of the box. Planning on a fleet truck with more common steel wheels which are luckily available in the aftermarket.

Looks looking forward to your build. I just did the stirrup steps on mine.

[Sam I Am]

Following this one also. 

[JerseeJerry55]

Can the 250 be made to replicate the NTC-290? If so what needs to be added? 

[Joe Thomas]

Since there are no locating holes for the cab trim except for the door handles, using a gel type super glue will alleviate much angst when attaching the parts, especially the mirrors.

.

[JerseeJerry55]

1 hour ago, Joe Thomas said:

Since there are no locating holes for the cab trim except for the door handles, using a gel type super glue will alleviate much angst when attaching the parts, especially the mirrors.

.

Agreed. I used a jewelry gel glue to attach the stirrup steps to the inside of the cab. Found it in the crafts section at Walmart. Works really well.

Edited November 18, 2019 by JerseeJerry55

[JerseeJerry55]

Dashboard almost finished. Just a couple of spots to do. As far as the frame goes not so sure I can use the Dual Dive frame without shortening it. If anybody has done the kit using the day cab and keeping DD frame stock I’d like to know your thoughts on how it looks. 

[OldTrucker]

The old White Freightliner I had to drive for Simplot Soilbuilders in Colorado didn't even have stirrups!! Day cab dual drive.

Had to use the hub and top of the tire when you climbed aboard!

That one was powered by a Detroit! 2100, 2100, 2100 LOL Loved the sound of the 2 stroke Detroit!

[JerseeJerry55]

Started the frame. Have primed the top and will prime the bottom tomorrow. So far so good.

[JerseeJerry55]

Will try and get some painting done on her this weekend. Saturday is supposed to be 67 degrees. I also noticed that a fuel tank is a slight bit off. Since she isn’t gonna be showroom new it may lend to the charm of her. We shall see.

[Pete68]

On 11/18/2019 at 7:41 AM, JerseeJerry55 said:

Can the 250 be made to replicate the NTC-290? If so what needs to be added? 

Need a turbo and move some filters and water lines around and oil cooler the left side of the engine basically stays the same as the 250 with the intake  I had one in my “real” Autocar it’s easy 

Edited January 8, 2020 by Pete68

[Pete68]

This Engine is identical to the one I had in my real Autocar. Not shown in this pic but my fuel filter was mounted under the pump on the left side of the engine. And you will have to move the dip stick to the right side of the engine that’s where the little red block is this one has no dip stick it’s plugged for some reason 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2020 by Pete68

[Vince66]

Cool post of a grungy Cumm-A-Part

[Bills72sj]

I am building one too. I will follow yours to get more ideas.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/147002-white-freightliner-coe-day-cab-dual-drive/

 

[Rich_S]

Nice build. Here's a photo of my Freight shaker patterned after a Corn Flakes (Consolidated Freightways) tractor I built  40+ years ago. I don't get to stop by the forum as often as I'd like to, but I'm enjoying these build threads.

[Bills72sj]

On 11/23/2019 at 6:19 AM, JerseeJerry55 said:

Dashboard almost finished. Just a couple of spots to do. As far as the frame goes not so sure I can use the Dual Dive frame without shortening it. If anybody has done the kit using the day cab and keeping DD frame stock I’d like to know your thoughts on how it looks. 

 

 

You will not need to shorten the frame. However, your will have to move the cab's rear (landing pads?) forward as well as the exhaust stacks and mounts.

[JerseeJerry55]

On 1/10/2020 at 7:57 PM, Rich_S said:

Nice build. Here's a photo of my Freight shaker patterned after a Corn Flakes (Consolidated Freightways) tractor I built  40+ years ago. I don't get to stop by the forum as often as I'd like to, but I'm enjoying these build threads.

Very, very nice job. Loved those old CF units. Especially loved the AMT SD with the Green CF unit on it. When I really got into Class 8 Trucks as a teen back in 1975 I went to a Truck Rodeo in Long Island NY near where I lived. This is the first truck I saw and really hooked me. Loved them then as I do now.

[JerseeJerry55]

11 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

You will not need to shorten the frame. However, your will have to move the cab's rear (landing pads?) forward as well as the exhaust stacks and mounts.

Thanks for the tips Bill. I believe the stack supports should fit in proper position in the forward most fuel tank strap. As far as the cab supports I believe I will have to measure using the SD I built last year.

[dad vader]

The main difference between a NA250 and NT290 (or Shiny 290)was the addition of a turbo. An engine mounted, or frame mounted fuel filter was specified by the OEM when the engine was ordered per customer request. Most OEM's used both so either configuration would be correct. Most Cummins  Big Cam dipstick options on the 855ci blocks were three different locations. 2 passenger side and 1 drivers side, and were into adapter plates mounted low on the block above the oil pan rail. The Small Cam block only offered the one location.  Every AMT kit I have ever built, even the ones that say it has a Big Cam engine, the block still represents a small cab block, because the cam followers are for a small cam.  As another small note, cause it just flashed into my head, Some of the early car haulers used flat sump cast aluminum pans, and the dipstick was mounted to them because the engine was mounted lower in the chassis so the cab could be mounted lower.  

Edited January 12, 2020 by dad vader
incorrect numbers

[JerseeJerry55]

16 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

You will not need to shorten the frame. However, your will have to move the cab's rear (landing pads?) forward as well as the exhaust stacks and mounts.

Thanks for the tips Bill. I believe the stack supports should fit in proper position in the forward most fuel tank strap. As far as the cab supports I believe I will have to measure using the SD I built last year.

[JerseeJerry55]

Just now, JerseeJerry55 said:

Thanks for the tips Bill. I believe the stack supports should fit in proper position in the forward most fuel tank strap. As far as the cab supports I believe I will have to measure using the SD I built last year.

Well sometimes the weather cooperates in Southern NJ in January. 65 degrees and 39 pct humidity. Want to desperately paint the cab but waiting on a part that prohibits my painting now. The frame painting will have to suffice for now.