applying decals

[Safire6]

I have a sheet of decals where the individual decals are not separate from each other. In other words I will have to cut the decals off the sheet separately and trim them closely to the outline of the decal. I'm used to decal sheets where the decals were all separate from each other. I hope I'm explaining this correctly.

Anyway, once I cut the individual decal and backing from the sheet and trim it closely, what tricks do you all have to slide the decal off the backing and onto the model? In this case the decal and the backing sheet will be the exact same size and shape as each other. How do I hold the backing sheet and slide the decal off? Normally I would use a tweezers to hold the backing sheet (which would be a little larger than the decal) and slide the decal off but I can't do this now because the tweezers would be grabbing the decal and the backing sheet together,  preventing it from sliding off. I think I somehow need to hold the back surface of the backing sheet with something and slide the decal off the face of the sheet as I normally would. Help!

 

 

[Miatatom]

My only suggestion would be to use a really good pair of tweezers to try and get between the decal and the backing sheet and lift it. Another method might be to soak the decal thoroughly, lay it on a piece of paper towel and use a Q-tip to test it for movement. Once it's moving, it should slide of the backing. Try either method with some extra decals. Good luck. Let us know if that works.

[Bills72sj]

Skip the tweezers on small decals. Once you see the decal let go of the paper in your water dish, stick you finger on the face and pull it out of the water. Remove the paper and "roll" the decal from your finger onto the surface. Make sure you have one drop of dish soap in your warm water dish to permit you to slide the decal of the surface. Once in place on the model, dab it with a cotton swab to wick up the water.

[Snake45]

Is this question for real? 

Hold the (wetted) decal between your thumb and forefinger, thumb on top. Hold the thing near where you want it on the model. Slide the decal off the backing sheet and onto the model with your thumb. Then place it exactly where you want it. 

I've been doing it this way since I was about seven. Maybe six. 

Good luck with your project. 

[Jim N]

Hold the decal and apply it as Snake45 suggests.  The only thing I will add is to keep two paint brushes handy that are not used to paint.  One is a brush with a lot of bristles and the second has few bristles.  Be prepared for the leading edge or corner to tuck under the decal.  If this happens, use your brush with a lot of bristles and put it in the bowl of water.  Flood the offending decal with water and use the small bristle brush to get under the decal and smooth out the folded area.  Use a paper towel to soak up the excess water when you are through.

[Safire6]

OK thanks for the suggestions everyone. Some of these decals are very small, about a 1/4" diameter, so manipulating them with my clumsy fingers will be difficult but I'll get 'er done. I'm used to using a wet cue tip to slide the decal off the backing but I'll try some small brushes also. Echoxrayniner on here made some custom decals for my 1/16 Trans Am and made some additional small ones so I have some extras in case I screw up.

[Snake45]

For very small decals, I'll "apply" them backward to the pad of my middle finger, then place them on the model. I also do model airplanes so I've gotten very good at this. 

[tbill]

I have a set of clamping tweezers, I grab a corner of the decal and soak, after a minute or two, I remove decal from water, while unclamping tweezers, I see if the decal is separating from paper, if so, I move decal enough to reclamp on the backing , then use a toothpick to set decal. I do this with my window registration and inspection decals.

 

[Safire6]

These are the center cap decals (from echoxrayniner) that I applied using everyone's suggestions. They measure .15" diameter. They are on Trans Am wheels that camaro69 modeled for me and Shapeways made. Soon they'll be on the 1/16 AMT kit that echoxrayniner made additional decals for. I'm happy with the way the wheels and decals turned out.

[peteski]

I print decals using my Alps printer on solid clear-film decal paper. For large complex shape decals I first take a hobby knife (or a scalpel) with fresh #11 blade, then using that blade I gently score the clear film around and close to the decal image.  Decal film ls extremely thin, so it takes very little pressure to score it (without going too deep into the backing paper).  Then I cut the scored image roughly out of the decal sheet (so there is extra area around the decal). Next, I place it in water until the adhesive softens up.

I then pick it out of water by grabbing the paper with tweezers near some unneeded edge. Then I place it down on some surface and using tweezers pick off the unwanted clear film. This process leaves the trimmed decal image on the backing paper and leaves areas of the backing paper free of clear film, so you can then easily grab the piece with tweezers, place it on the model and slide the trimmed image onto the model (just like standard decals).

[Tom Geiger]

I was thinking about this thread as a used decals to personalize some Christmas ornaments for my wife!

First, the situation you described is typical for any self printed decals. And, when using kit decals that have that larger mask under them, I'll often trim them to size so the clear around the edges isn't visible on my finished model.  

I generally will soak the decal in warm water and position it still on paper right near where I want to apply it.  I will hold it there and coax the decal to move to the right with a toothpick.  Once I get the edge started and the decal is where I want it. I will hold the decal in place with the toothpick and pull the paper away to the left with either my fingers or tweezers.  I hope you can picture that.

 

[Dave Van]

I have been making decals since I hand painted my own on paper tape as a kid.

My way...not the only way...

Start with a clean and glossy surface. Use whatever method you like to get there. I like a clear spray like Testors gloss coat or Tamiya.

 

Regardless of decal type here is how I apply decals.

 

I cut the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible. I have a small pair of scissors that are sharp and easy to cut around small images.

 

Using tweezers I dip the decal in warm water for about 10 seconds.

 

I place decal on a damp paper towel and allow the decal to ‘cook’ as its called. This can vary by decal paper maker. It can be anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. When decal moves easily on paper backing it is ready to apply.

 

On surface of model put two or three drops of water. With tweezers place decal on model body where you want to apply. With your finger move the decal image off the paper just enough to use your tweezers to pull the decal paper from under the decal image. This will keep as much air out from under the decal.

 

Position the decal image in the exact spot you want it. With the slightly damp paper towel blot the water from the decal.

 

Making sure the decal is positioned in the correct spot, make a squeegee from the damp paper towel and from the center of the decal out to the edge squeegee out all the water and some of the glue. This will keep the decal from turning yellow as it ages.

 

IF needed I will use Walthers Solvaset decal solution. Go light as it is a strong solvent but works

Well for me.

 

After the decals dry for a day or two I apply a coat of Future Floor Shine with a 1 in wide soft sable brush that is only used for Future. Allow to dry overnight and all should be good!!!