Tamiya Primers, Liquid vs Aerosol

[NOBLNG]

Are these two the same stuff?  ie: If the liquid primer is properly thinned and sprayed with an airbrush, do they both adhere equally and accept paint equally? The bottle says to thin with lacquer thinner if needed. Has anyone had a problem with the liquid primer?

Thanks, Greg.

Edited February 11, 2020 by NOBLNG
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[El Roberto]

Don't use the liquid surface primer for spraying. It's more like a liquid filler for sanding marks, etc.  The aerosol can primer is great, very fine spray , dries smooth, and doesn't cover up the details on the model. 

[espo]

2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Are these two the same stuff?  ie: If the liquid primer is properly thinned and sprayed with an airbrush, do they both adhere equally and accept paint equally? The bottle says to thin with lacquer thinner if needed. Has anyone had a problem with the liquid primer?

Thanks, Greg.

El Roberto is correct about the in the bottle primer. It works great for what it's designed to do. The cap has a brush attached for application use. Mine didn't last long before it just fell apart. I used a paint brush to do applications after that. My suggestion is to not use a brush you care about since it will be gumnd up after one use. The good news is has saved many of my boo boos.   

[peteski]

This is the first time I have seen Tamiya primer in a bottle.  From what you guys are saying, that stuff is similar to Gunze (Creos) Mr. SURFACER (1000, 1500), right? Sort of thin liquid putty which can be used to fill small imperfections.

[NOBLNG]

It is a very thick liquid. I have a bottle of it in white also, and the solids will settle out of the solvent after sitting. Neither of mine came with a brush on the lid. I think I will stick with the aerosol stuff! I have brushed Tamiya lacquer over top of the grey stuff and it ate into the primer. Maybe it wasn't dry enough.

[peteski]

Thick? That does sound like Mr. SURFACER stuff.

[89AKurt]

I just started using this, but the grey version in the bottle, with lacquer thinner.  Hobby Lobby does not have the white.  I'm posting this disaster to show how brake fluid does not exactly have as much effect as other paints.  I was very impressed how it stuck to the body.  So far, so good!

[NOBLNG]

7 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I just started using this, but the grey version in the bottle, with lacquer thinner.  Hobby Lobby does not have the white.  I'm posting this disaster to show how brake fluid does not exactly have as much effect as other paints.  I was very impressed how it stuck to the body.  So far, so good!

So the bottled primer performed well, and had nothing to do with the reason for stripping the paint?

Thanks.

[89AKurt]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

So the bottled primer performed well, and had nothing to do with the reason for stripping the paint?

Thanks.

Correct.  I screwed up with the color layer.  I was a bit concerned when airbrushing, appeared lumpy orange peel, but when it cured, leveled out.  I have a little project to brush paint this primer, so will give a report if you want.

BTW: the old Jeep in your icon picture, story?

Edited February 12, 2020 by 89AKurt

[Mark]

Each works great for their intended purpose.  I use the bottled primer a lot, as I apply it only in areas where bodywork has been done.  I use cheap throwaway brushes and wipe them clean with a rag immediately after use, that way I get several uses out of them.  Brush marks won't matter if they occur as you're sanding most of the primer away anyway.  Using the bottled primer means you're not blasting spray primer onto areas where you don't need it yet, leaving you to apply it only after the entire piece is ready for primer and finish paint.

[El Roberto]

16 hours ago, peteski said:

This is the first time I have seen Tamiya primer in a bottle.  From what you guys are saying, that stuff is similar to Gunze (Creos) Mr. SURFACER (1000, 1500), right? Sort of thin liquid putty which can be used to fill small imperfections.

Yep, very similar.  Works great for minor imperfections. Just paint it on, let it dry and sand. 

[Exotics_Builder]

1 hour ago, Mark said:

Each works great for their intended purpose.  I use the bottled primer a lot, as I apply it only in areas where bodywork has been done.  I use cheap throwaway brushes and wipe them clean with a rag immediately after use, that way I get several uses out of them.  Brush marks won't matter if they occur as you're sanding most of the primer away anyway.  Using the bottled primer means you're not blasting spray primer onto areas where you don't need it yet, leaving you to apply it only after the entire piece is ready for primer and finish paint.

Pretty much what I also do.  I use the spray can for regular coverage.  And m actually thinking of decanting that to get more controlled coverage, even though I'm quite satisfied with the results out of the can.

[bluenote]

I use the bottle primer all the time through my airbrush (thinned with Tamiya lacquer) and to me, it's exactly the same as the rattle can.  According to Tamiya's website, out of the bottle and unthinned, it's meant to be brushed on.  But, they also say you can thin and airbrush it.  

My experience is that as long as it's thinned properly, it performs exactly the same as the rattle can version

[STYRENE-SURFER]

4 hours ago, bluenote said:

I use the bottle primer all the time through my airbrush (thinned with Tamiya lacquer) and to me, it's exactly the same as the rattle can.  According to Tamiya's website, out of the bottle and unthinned, it's meant to be brushed on.  But, they also say you can thin and airbrush it.  

My experience is that as long as it's thinned properly, it performs exactly the same as the rattle can version

Ive had the same results as bluenote. Also with Mr. Surfacer 1000, both thinned with Mr. color Lacquer thinner. About 2 to 1.

I don't particularly care for the thickness of the bottled Tamiya surface primer so use it thinned 1 to 1, and then only on VERY small imperfections.

The fact that it is a Lacquer based product and shrinks a lot and can be negatively effected by top coats has left me looking for alternatives.

 

[Bainford]

Mr Surfacer (and I imagine the Tamiya bottle primer too) is great for repairing panel scriber slips. I also apply a layer over any body work done with other fillers as it feathers out so well. 

[1972coronet]

After many years of me seeing Tamiya Liquid Primer and wondering, What the heck is that stuff?,  I finally bought a bottle of it. Naturally, I couldn't read the directions on the label until I got home and installed me Dollar Store '+1.75' reading glasses. 

First thing I'd noticed was that there's no brush attached to the inside of the lid. Oh, well... I just grabbed one of the countless "stop sticks" (one of those green plastic things from Starbucks), mixed the contents, and used the aforementioned stick to smooth a thin layer of the liquid primer over the puttied-over (Tamiya White Putty) sink marque on the trans oil pan of the TH-400 on the 396 in the AMT '68 El Camino. 

I'm yet to be dissatisfied with any Tamiya product -- I hope that this stuff delivers the goods.

 

[Mark]

It's an oversimplification, but when it comes to lacquer based products, one-part spot putty, brush-on primer, and spray primer are all basically the same stuff...only different consistencies.  I wouldn't tell anyone to thin out spot putty to make primer, or let primer thicken to make putty.  It's just easier to use each product for its intended purpose.

[bill-e-boy]

The Tamiya bottled primer is my go to primer. Just make sure it is well stirred before use - I use a Trumpeter battery powered stirrer

Tamiya bottle primer is great as spot putty and sands well and does not fall apart when sanded. It looks to have a fine particle structure

Tamiya bottle primer is also great as a primer when thinned and applied with an airbrush. I thin about 1 part primer and 2 parts lacquer thinners - general stuff like 3M thinners. I am to tight to pay mega bucks for a thimble full of Tamiya thinners. The airbrush primers sands well prior to top coating.

The air brushed primer works with Tamiya bottle acrylics also thinned with lacquer thinners.  It is perfect under their lacquer series of paints too. I have also used it under Testors enamels but ensure it has had a few days to gas out beforehand though.

300B below was painted with white primer and mica red all from bottles. Also clear coated with Tamiya lacquer clear and polished out

Doesn't look too shiny in pix but it is 

 

 

[wrenchr]

Both primers have their intended and separate purposes. I keep both on hand. The bottle primer I stock up on cheap paint brushes from wally world and just toss them as I use them.