Decanting spray paint

[fordf-100]

What’s the best, safest and easiest way to decant spray cans? These are older paint cans and are not spraying. Any help would be appreciated! 

Thanks !

[GeeBee]

I've been doing it this way for years without any problems, pop a small pinhole just below the top of the aerosol can, let the propellant to escape, then cut the top off, the paint will still have gas in it, just agitate it until it's all escaped out of the paint, then pour the contents into a glass bottle or jar.

[peteski]

Doing a simple search (even using the forum's crappy search engine) shows that this subject has been discussed to death.  Here is the search I used:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/search/?q=decanting&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=8

 

 

[64Comet404]

I use a 1/4" saddle valve (used for hooking up automatic ice makers to home water pipes), and a couple of hose clamps. I depressurize the cans, then open them with a juice can opener.

[fordf-100]

Thanks guys, appreciate the tips!

[64Comet404]

Since I was doing some cleaning, I took a few pictures of my decanting rig.

These pieces, plus a screwdriver and juice can opener, are my main tools.

The rig, all ready to depressurize the can.

I depressurized all these Tamiya cans in less than 25 minutes. The can at the top of the picture was a can of Testor’s Black Vinyl Top paint, which came out thick and under a lot of pressure. At least I tried...

[fordf-100]

That’s a neat idea, looks like it’s a easy safe way! Thanks!

[Pete J.]

Same idea as ken but I made this a long time ago.  I like it because I can punch a hole close to the top and bottom seam.  I use the top one to let the gas out.  I generally let it sit overnight so most of the gas in the paint can come out of solution.  Then I close the needle and shake the can up to get all the paint mixed.  Once it is mixed I push the needle in as far as I can to enlarge the hole as large as possible.   I then punch a hole in the bottom and use that hole to pour the paint out.  When all the paint is out, I use a plastic pipette to put a lacquer thinner in the can and shake it around to get the last of the paint out.  After I have done that, cut the can open to remove the glass beads in side the can.  I throw those into the jar I am saving the paint in the aid in mixing it if it has to sit a while. 

[Deuces ll]

Once you get in the swing of popping the cans open, you could start a collection of marbles in a Mason jar..... ????

[BubbaBrown]

I use a small drill bit at the top of the can and try not to move the can, you will not get paint that way. The gas blowing out  they say is propane so be sure to vent to outside. When it dies down I use bigger drill bits till all vented then cut the top off and pour contents into glass jars.

 

[Pete J.]

23 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Same idea as ken but I made this a long time ago.  I like it because I can punch a hole close to the top and bottom seam.  I use the top one to let the gas out.  I generally let it sit overnight so most of the gas in the paint can come out of solution.  Then I close the needle and shake the can up to get all the paint mixed.  Once it is mixed I push the needle in as far as I can to enlarge the hole as large as possible.   I then punch a hole in the bottom and use that hole to pour the paint out.  When all the paint is out, I use a plastic pipette to put a lacquer thinner in the can and shake it around to get the last of the paint out.  After I have done that, cut the can open to remove the glass beads in side the can.  I throw those into the jar I am saving the paint in the aid in mixing it if it has to sit a while. 

What I use to do before I came up with this was use and ice pick.  Being long and slender I could easily control the about of pressure coming out.  Downside is I had to stand there and hold the ice pick and can until the pressure dropped to near zero. 

[fordf-100]

Thanks guys, great tips and pictures!

[Ace-Garageguy]

On 4/28/2020 at 12:42 AM, Pete J. said:

Same idea as ken but I made this a long time ago... 

That, sir, is pretty slick.

I have some parts to mill over the next few days. Guess I'll add one of these to the job list.

Thanks.  

 

[Rodent]

4 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

That, sir, is pretty slick.

I have some parts to mill over the next few days. Guess I'll add one of these to the job list.

Thanks.  

 

You know that if you do that, they are going to introduce a different diameter spray can......

[Pete J.]

1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

That, sir, is pretty slick.

I have some parts to mill over the next few days. Guess I'll add one of these to the job list.

Thanks.  

 

The one subtitle thing is flat part under the screw.  That needs to be there for gases to escape you so you can see how deep the point is going. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

7 hours ago, Pete J. said:

The one subtitle thing is flat part under the screw.  That needs to be there for gases to escape you so you can see how deep the point is going. 

Did you cut the slot with a broach? Other ways to do it, of course, but that's what I would assume.

[Pete J.]

14 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Did you cut the slot with a broach? Other ways to do it, of course, but that's what I would assume.

No, just an endmill.  Here was my process.

  First I cut the hole on the mill with a rotary table and small mill end.  Then I drilled the holes in the sides with the correct drill for the tap I was going to use to hold the two sides together.    Then I used a slitting saw to cut the two parts in half.  I tapped the bottom half and used a ream to make to top hole large enough to accommodate the screw without engaging the treads. You don't need a ream.  A larger drill bit would do the same thing, I just happened to have a new set of reams. 

  Then I drilled and tapped the hole for the puncture screw.  Last I used a 1/4"  mill end to cut the slot. (Since the jig is now in two halfs, you have access to the under side.)  There is no reason that the groove needs to be flat.  You could just releve it by cutting a semicircle with an mill end.  I used a stainless steel screw that I pointed on the mill for the puncture screw.  I found the sharper the angle but easier to control. 

Good luck and I can't wait to see your take on this project. 

Pete

Edited May 1, 2020 by Pete J.

[Deuces ll]

Looks like something I could make at work.... Thanks!... ??

[Ace-Garageguy]

5 hours ago, Pete J. said:

No, just an endmill...

Thanks. I had a 'duh' moment earlier, not thinking through you could mill the square hole by simply changing the orientation of the top half of the thing on the mill table.

Some days my brain just doesn't fire on all eight...

[Pete J.]

1 minute ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Thanks. I had a 'duh' moment earlier, not thinking through you could mill the square hole by simply changing the orientation of the top half of the thing on the mill table.

Some days my brain just doesn't fire on all eight...

Eight?? Most days I'm lucky to get four going at the same time.  But sometimes I can get the turbo to kick in!?