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1972 Darrell Waltrip Mercury


gks1964

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This is going to be my next project as the '69 Charger500 winds down. Any help that can be given would be of great help! I have The MPC Mercury Cyclone body to use and Yesterday's decal sheets on the way. This will be the car he ran at Talladega. I need help with chassis type and any other pix or knowledge you may have. Thanks to everyone!!

waltrip 72 tall.jpg

Edited by gks1964
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According to a book I have called the "NASCAR Family Album" the car was known as a a Holman & Moody "house car".It was run by quite a few drivers.  Bobby Allison drove it to his first super speedway win at North Carolina Speedway in 1967. It was originally a Ford Fairlane before eventually being converted to a 1971 Mercury. Mario also drove it to victory at Daytona in 1967 when it was a Ford. 

Edited by Vietnam Vet67
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20 hours ago, yellowsportwagon said:

What Len said. Shorten the frame horns about 1/8 inch. Same with the engine hoop. Cut the hump off the rear firewall and it drops right into the Mercury body.

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When you say the frame horns, is this the foreword most area of the frame rail?

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34 minutes ago, gks1964 said:

When you say the frame horns, is this the foreword most area of the frame rail?

Yep! I cut about 1/8 inch off of them. Cut the shock tower loops off the engine hoop. They need to be modified anyway. Shorten the engine hoop 1/8 inch too. This will move the radiator closer too the fan but it still fits. I did my chassis like most Holman Moody chassis. Black underside and engine compartment. Gray spatter paint on interior floor rear firewall with black dash and cage. My biggest suggestions with these chassis are to remove the two stupid big lugs the steering gear is supposed to sit on. Allows more header room. Glue steering stuff directly to the control arms. The shock towers need to be modified to fit the boss engine. I cut them off each side. Then I slice most of the material away where they mounted to the hoop. So the material is only about 1/64 inch thick. Then glue them into the frame and back to the engine hoop. If this makes sense. 

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All these guys nailed it, the Polar Lights chassis. It does require a little work, it needs to be shortened in the front to clear the Merc bumper, the dash will need work to clear the windshield and the rear end may need some movement to line up with the wheelwells.  Whenever I make a PL Talladega or Merc SpoilerII I cut out off the curved down bars next to the engine and move them outward a little to provide clearance for the Boss 429. Someone else may have a better idea, that's what I found to work for me.

I paint my chassis gray and give it a speckled finish to replicate the Zolatone paint commonly used back in that time period. I paint the roll cage semi gloss black and the underside of the chassis is also semi gloss black. That was the way Holman-Moody painted them when constructed. I glue uo my cage without gluing to the chassis so I can paint it separately. Then glue it when everything is painted.

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The way I do the splatter paint is I paint my chassis top with Testor's Model Master gloss gull gray. Once it dries I spray Testor's Acrylic white from my airbrush, at a distance and without thinning the paint. I then do the same with Testor's acrylic black. Because the paint wasn't thinned, it spits and gets a nice almost to scale result. I am sure someone else has other ways of doing this. Not hard, just a few steps. The hard part is cleaning the airbrush, the acrylics tend to foul the tip and it can be tough to get it cleaned out. 

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