Monty Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Some of you really nail the hard lines on your builds, especially the line from the fuel pump to the carb. I've tried using a small paper clip because the diameter seems close, but I haven't been able to get the great bends you'd see on a 1:1 engine. I've also thought about small-gauge beading wire, but don't know if it would hold its shape like a real hard line. Any suggestions and pics would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 I use assorted diameters of guitar string for all hard lines. I bend them with various pliers, often holding a pair of pliers in each hand to handle the wire during bending. Some craft pliers, available at places like Michaels, are perfect for this type of work, and are quite inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Comet404 Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 I use various sizes of brass wire to form my hard lines. I have an old roll of brass beading wire, but it is so thick (.018”), that I tend to use it more for hanging parts for painting. If you can find brass beading wire in the .005-.010” range, it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnU Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 This tag wire works perfectly for brake lines, fuel lines and what have you! They’re galvanized 26 gage steel soft enough to bend without much fight compared to guitar strings and it will hold a tight radius for sharp right angles. This wire is meant for attaching tags like a twist tie. Now that I think about it, you could probably strip twist ties and use the wire virtually for free from a bread bag!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) Solder is perfect for this application. It is available in several diameters, and it is easily shaped. It also looks like galvanized steel. Not the stuff plumbers use (too thick) Electronic solder. I have some as fine as 0.015". Copper wire is also good. Look for tinned version (so it has a silver finish). Then there are all sorts of craft wires available in the bead section of arts/crafts stores. Edited May 26, 2020 by peteski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 17 hours ago, peteski said: Solder is perfect for this application. It is available in several diameters, and it is easily shaped. It also looks like galvanized steel. Not the stuff plumbers use (too thick) Electronic solder. I have some as fine as 0.015". Copper wire is also good. Look for tinned version (so it has a silver finish). Then there are all sorts of craft wires available in the bead section of arts/crafts stores. Here is another source for out of the box thinking. This is lead wire used for tying fishing lures. I bought this assortment some time ago and it is a lifetime supply in a wide variety of sizes. https://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Lead-Wire-Assortment/744541.uts?slotId=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 17 hours ago, peteski said: It also looks like galvanized steel. This is the biggest problem IMHO. Most random wire/rod people use tends to be too reflective or shiny, which, unless the fuel line is polished stainless steel or aluminum tubing, looks off for a stock type application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 It is not that shiny. Solder is rather dull looking. On the other hand, silver plated copper wire has a very bright coloring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 29 minutes ago, peteski said: It is not that shiny. Solder is rather dull looking. On the other hand, silver plated copper wire has a very bright coloring. Peter, The closest I have found to bright lines and much easier to straighten and bend is silver solder. It is used by jeweler and nut cases like me for soldering photo etched part. Although it is true silver bearing, it doesn't seem to tarnish. It also comes in a wide variety of diameters, some very small. Worth a look. https://www.amazon.com/No-Clean-Silver-Solder-SAC305-031-Inch/dp/B00WDEDFJY/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/142-8830657-9846356?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WDEDFJY&pd_rd_r=a81b6c52-8193-4300-ab37-d7e839a36126&pd_rd_w=qEewz&pd_rd_wg=QMdWQ&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=QV9PZKEA3ST5T9GJF720&psc=1&refRID=QV9PZKEA3ST5T9GJF720 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Many very good suggestions. Another idea would be to check the Resin/After Market Parts section on the Forum. Many good suppliers can be found there. The model I'm working on now I'm using materials from Mad Modeling (www. madmodeling.com) . They offer 3ft. of Fuel Line in Aluminum, Red, Blue, or Purple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 I’m still working off a pack of Radio Shack diodes I bought around 1990 as fuel filters and lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 I usually just use the leftover scraps from the pre-wired distributors from M.A.D. that I use. I just strip the jacket and use the inner wire. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike999 Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) re solder: if you ever see a pack of this stuff on eBay or at a swap meet, grab it! Hudson & Allen #9612 Detailing Solder. Because it was sold for modelers, not electronics technicians, it comes in the small sizes 0.010, 0.020 and 0.030. That little pack has 30 feet of solder, 10 feet for each size. So it will last a long time. Hudson & Allen is still in business, mostly making 1/35 scale diorama items. But they seem to have discontinued the Detailing Solder. I bought some years ago and still use it. Edited May 28, 2020 by Mike999 goof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Beading pins from a local craft store. About 2.5 inches which is long enough to get from a fuel pump to a carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 On 5/28/2020 at 4:28 PM, Mike999 said: re solder: if you ever see a pack of this stuff on eBay or at a swap meet, grab it! Hudson & Allen #9612 Detailing Solder. Because it was sold for modelers, not electronics technicians, it comes in the small sizes 0.010, 0.020 and 0.030. That little pack has 30 feet of solder, 10 feet for each size. So it will last a long time. Hudson & Allen is still in business, mostly making 1/35 scale diorama items. But they seem to have discontinued the Detailing Solder. I bought some years ago and still use it. There are several Ebay stores that sell it with or without lead for use as weight, in tying flies. It comes in diameters from .010"-.035". I have been collecting every kind of wire I find, for decades--all kinds of other stuff, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chariots of Fire Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 I use craft wire and bead wire all the time. Some is mylar coated and looks great for winch cable. The brass and copper wire are good as well as the solder wire. All are soft and bend easily but once bent hold their shape. Paper clip wire is too heavy and not easy to bend as has been suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.