The Treatment

[RichCostello]

I have some of The Treatment model buffing cream, and model wax that I want to try on my 69 Chevelle, and was wondering if it's better to buff/wax before or after applying the decals?

[espo]

I would suggest applying the decals before the clear coat. Many have different opinions on this but this is mine. I have only used "The  Treatment" model wax once and while it will give you a shine in my experience it turned out to be a little more aggressive than what I needed at the time and went thru the color coat in my case. My thought is that if you used this product after the decals are applied it may damage the decals. Will be interesting to see what others suggest. 

[RichCostello]

The body has already been clear coated, and I don't want the stripes to be cleared. On the 1:1 car, the stripes were actually decals, so they would not look right(to me). The directions on the wax says to be careful around decals, so I guess that it's OK to wax after decals are applied. I'm mainly concerned as to how well the decals will stick to a waxed body if I were to do the wax first.

[TarheelRick]

Not sure, but I think decals would have a difficult time sticking to a waxed body.

[Snake45]

3 hours ago, RichCostello said:

I have some of The Treatment model buffing cream, and model wax that I want to try on my 69 Chevelle, and was wondering if it's better to buff/wax before or after applying the decals?

Neither. Or, if you prefer, Never. 

[RichCostello]

1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

Neither. Or, if you prefer, Never. 

Why is that?

[Snake45]

IMHO, it causes more problems than it solves. And a really good finish doesn't need it to start with. 

[Rob Hall]

Interesting...I remember a 1:1 car wax/polish called The Treatment...my Dad and Mom used it on their cars in the 80s.  Orange bottle.

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Not sure, but I think decals would have a difficult time sticking to a waxed body.

 

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Neither. Or, if you prefer, Never. 

I think I agree.

The "Treatment" is carnauba wax which is silicone based.

You will likely have issues with the decals sticking if you apply them after, and problems rubbing them off if applied before.

You would have been better off clear coating over the decals if possible as David suggested and then you could have used whatever you desired to polish it.

Being as that is now a moot point, I would polish with a non-silicone polish and then apply the decals.

You can get every bit as good of a finish without wax as you would with it.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[jamesG]

I would agree with snake. The decals used on 1:1 cars are different than model decals different thickness, adhesive, and more than likely different material. Also, in most if not all cases stripes were an option so the cars were painted a solid color a d if the customer wanted stripes decals where quick a d eazy to add after the car was washed to remove any contaminants including wax.

Decals would likely have a hard time adhering to a waxed body if at all and and polishing would at least scratch them if not outright remove them. Remember polish is a fine liquid abrasive. 

I would suggest that you not use either unless your paint appears to really need it (personal preference) and then I would do it before attaching the body and wash it with soap and water to remove residue and a light buff with a very soft cloth only then assemble and apply decals.

My personal preference would be to eliminate the decals altogether and paint the strips on. 

[Snake45]

34 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You can get every bit as good of a finish without wax as you would with it.

Steve

PREACH IT, Brother Steven! Can I get a AY-men from the choir? 

[RichCostello]

23 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

I think I agree.

The "Treatment" is carnauba wax which is silicone based.

You will likely have issues with the decals sticking if you apply them after, and problems rubbing them off if applied before.

You would have been better off clear coating over the decals if possible as David suggested and then you could have used whatever you desired to polish it.

Being as that is now a moot point, I would polish with a non-silicone polish and then apply the decals.

You can get every bit as good of a finish without wax as you would with it.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Thanks Steve, The paint already looks as good as any factory paint job from 1969, so I think I'll just leave it as is. It's not that often that I get a nice, smooth paint job on the first shot, so I don't want to press my luck. 

By the way, if anyone is trying to find a good color for the 69 Chevelle, you should consider Model Master Bright Aqua Pearl. It's a beautiful color, and looks perfect on this car! It's very close to a turquoise color that Chevy did that year.

[RichCostello]

14 minutes ago, jamesG said:

I would agree with snake. The decals used on 1:1 cars are different than model decals different thickness, adhesive, and more than likely different material. Also, in most if not all cases stripes were an option so the cars were painted a solid color a d if the customer wanted stripes decals where quick a d eazy to add after the car was washed to remove any contaminants including wax.

Decals would likely have a hard time adhering to a waxed body if at all and and polishing would at least scratch them if not outright remove them. Remember polish is a fine liquid abrasive. 

I would suggest that you not use either unless your paint appears to really need it (personal preference) and then I would do it before attaching the body and wash it with soap and water to remove residue and a light buff with a very soft cloth only then assemble and apply decals.

My personal preference would be to eliminate the decals altogether and paint the strips on. 

I'm not totally sold on the stripes yet, but I think the white stripes would look good with the color. Guess I'll decide when it's up on all fours.

I do know that I won't be painting the stripes on!

[Deuces ll]

The Treatment car wax dates back to the '70s..... I don't know if it's the same stuff used for model cars though...

??

Edited August 19, 2020 by Deuces ll

[randyc]

Use the wax AFTER the decals.   I liked the Treatment wax - is it still available?

[RichCostello]

4 hours ago, randyc said:

Use the wax AFTER the decals.   I liked the Treatment wax - is it still available?

I don't know, I got it as a free sample with something I ordered online a long time ago. I don't remember who it was that sent it(buffing cream-model wax-model mist wipes&display case cleaner).

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, randyc said:

I liked the Treatment wax - is it still available?

It is, but most of what I'm finding is this dopey "pouch" set.

 

 

 

I did however, find jars of the old "Final Detail" stuff on ebay.

2 jars for $25.00 if you're interested.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[RichCostello]

5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

It is, but most of what I'm finding is this dopey "pouch" set.

 

 

 

I did however, find jars of the old "Final Detail" stuff on ebay.

2 jars for $25.00 if you're interested.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

That's exactly what I have, the dopey "pouch" set. It was a freebie.

[Oldcarfan27]

Not sure if this is the same, but it looks like it's available. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Treatment-YELLOW-CARNAUBA-CREAM-WAX-Car-Waxing-954ml-Professional-Series-/362556415134

[espo]

I noticed this question is still running. This morning I found the jar of "The Treatment"  wax/polish that I based my comment on. The jar is just under 2" high and an one and a half inches in diameter with a yellow label. The jar is old enough that there is no web site address on it. On the label it states: Removes fine scratches, and I think this is where I ran into my problems because it was pretty aggressive in this area. The label also mentions removing smears and fingerprints, deepens color and protects clear plastic from fogging. As many others have mentioned the Carnauba Wax would make decal applications risky at best. 

[randyc]

10 minutes ago, espo said:

I noticed this question is still running. This morning I found the jar of "The Treatment"  wax/polish that I based my comment on. The jar is just under 2" high and an one and a half inches in diameter with a yellow label. The jar is old enough that there is no web site address on it. On the label it states: Removes fine scratches, and I think this is where I ran into my problems because it was pretty aggressive in this area. The label also mentions removing smears and fingerprints, deepens color and protects clear plastic from fogging. As many others have mentioned the Carnauba Wax would make decal applications risky at best. 

THat's what I used to use.  And it will eat enamel off, especially red testors.  

[espo]

28 minutes ago, randyc said:

THat's what I used to use.  And it will eat enamel off, especially red testors.  

I learned the hard way many years ago building the then new '66 Ford Fairlane 390 GT. I did my best Highland Green paint job and just an ever so slight Orange Peal finish. I quickly had the edges of the fenders and any other raised body edge turning to white plastic. I have been using Tamiya polishing products pretty much ever since with no problems.  I'm kind of the "If it's not broken don't try and fix it" type ever since. 

[randyc]

I ran out and it's not available anymore like it was.   No LHS.   So I have been using hte remainder of a headlight polishing kit's polish.   Seems pretty tame.   And works.   I usually use whatever I have on hand.  And pay the price sometimes.  

[Muncie]

As I remember it, the original Treatment product  in the late 1970's was sold to do-it yourselfers to restore auto finishes.  It was a wax that had a bit of polish in it. The polish was not as aggressive as the abrasives in most of the auto parts store polishes.  You could get a really good shine with it.  It's kind of both - somewhere in-between a wax and a polish. The  polishing rag would come up with the paint color.  The Treatment was a really big thing  in the market for a while but it went away quickly.

At this point, I agree that it will probably cause more problems than it will solve - especially with the decals.

A general rule - polish for shine, wax for protection. No wax on model cars.

 

[SfanGoch]

1 hour ago, randyc said:

I ran out and it's not available anymore like it was.   No LHS.   So I have been using hte remainder of a headlight polishing kit's polish.   Seems pretty tame.   And works.   I usually use whatever I have on hand.  And pay the price sometimes.  

Get an 8 oz. can from the Treatment Products, LTD.