Has Anyone Tried this New Vacu-Forming Machine?

[Curt]

I don't use styrene.  Clear PET (the stuff they form soda bottles from) is much better.  

[Bucky]

1 hour ago, Curt said:

I don't use styrene.  Clear PET (the stuff they form soda bottles from) is much better.  

Where can someone get that item?

[peteski]

10 hours ago, Curt said:

I don't use styrene.  Clear PET (the stuff they form soda bottles from) is much better.  

Correct, not for windshields.  But polystyrene can definitely be used for vacu-forming.  All the vacum-fromed kits that use white polystyrene plastic for their parts.

[MrObsessive]

VERY interesting machine! I'm a bit partial to the one I got from MicroMark however as it has its own self contained vacuum unit. Unfortunately, I just checked their site and it looks like they no longer sell that one. They have a MUCH more expensive one though for $700.00!

Also, I'd like to be able to see just when the plastic is starting to droop. Too long a wait time will leave little tiny "bubbles" in spots on your windshield for example and not look right.

As far as PETG, here is a seller on the 'Bay who I've gotten my sheets from at a reasonable price. The auction listed is for 12"x12" sheets, but I have gotten them smaller from him to suit my machine which is 5"x5".

[MrObsessive]

12 hours ago, Bucky said:

Where can someone get that item?

You can try here Keith.

[ChrisBcritter]

On 10/8/2020 at 9:26 PM, CabDriver said:

https://www.michaels.com/coupons

Hmm. 

Quote

EXCLUSIONS: Great Buy items; clearance; doorbusters; MichaelsPro Packs; custom framing; beverages & candy; books & magazines; gift cards; LEGO; sewing machines; craft technology & accessories; Cricut, Silhouette; Christmas trees. Exclusions subject to change. See Team Member for details.

??

Still something I could use; several of my projects would be getting new windshields.

[Bugatti Fan]

Using styrene for vac forming is nothing new. The model aircraft fraternity have been building vac formed kits for years! Only more recently though the trend is going more towards resin  kits for low volume subjects.

As for raw materials, look out commercial plastics suppliers to industry. It may be much cheaper to buy a few large sheets and cut them down to a useable size either for the vac form machine or just general use.

[ChrisBcritter]

Again, hmm. This video - the first of three - was one of the recommendations that came up after the one SfanGoch posted. There may be a learning curve here, but Molly definitely had some problems with it to the point she gave up. Any suggestions for avoiding the "veins"?

 

[Mark]

If you are willing to spend $80 on this unit, not sure if it has enough muscle for the stuff we are trying to do, may as well throw another $20 or $30 on the pile and get one of the "dental tray" machines which definitely has enough grunt to get the job done.  The one I have takes 5" x 5" sheets with no perforations or other fancy details on the edges, making it easy to cut material from larger sheets that are easy to get.  The pre-cut material for this unit will probably be way overpriced, and if Michael's decides to stop carrying them then you are down to cutting your own sheets anyway.

[Curt]

8 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

You can try here Keith.

Exactly where I get mine.  I also picked up a cheap vacformer on eBay that I use with a small shopvac and a tabletop electric grill.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-x-6-Vacuum-Forming-Former-Thermoform-Plastic-Forming-Box-Machine-Table/164357917346?hash=item26447ecaa2:g:-qwAAOSwBLlU4~X1

[MrObsessive]

The one I have I see listed on the 'Bay here. This is the one I got from Micro-Mark that they don't sell any longer.

[SSNJim]

So, I picked one of these up Tuesday afternoon. Two hours later, I had a rear window for my 60 Falcon coupe. Handy, and easy to use.

I had earlier shaped a new rear window for the Falcon out of a scrap block of pine since I would imagine they're rare as falcon's teeth. I used that as the test for the Mold Press machine (henceforth known as the machine).

I took the machine out of the box and set it up in accordance with the instructions (you do know what those are, right?). The support legs are marked with measurements so you can measure the droop of the plastic sheet or height of the item being molded.

I set my rear window buck in the center of the bottom piece, loaded up a sheet of plastic (they have protective sheets on both sides - dont forget to take them off because they're not mentioned anywhere), and started the process, again IAW the instructions. The first time, it took well over ten minutes to warm the plastic sheet. I turned on the vacuum cleaner, pushed the carrier down, and voila, a nice copy of the rear window. There were some veins around the base, but I didn't care because I only needed the top. There's some discussion in the manual about removing veins and improving the mold, but, again, I didn't care at this point. Maybe later. So, I made another copy. I had left the heater on, so I put a new sheet in and started the heating process. It took less than five minutes to get to temperature. A quick repeat of the vacu-sucking process, and there was another copy.

The second copy I attacked with a couple of pairs of scissors, and ended up with a nice, clean rear window for the Falcon. There is too much of a curve to the window, but that is due to the buck. It's a very nice copy. Depending how I feel about it, I may make another copy or two and modify the buck to have less of a curve.

The plastic sheets are PETG. I did pick up an additional pack of 40 (with 10 free sheets) plastic sheets. The machine only comes with 4. You can complain about the price, but after the 20% discount, the sheets are about the price of a kit and weigh almost twice as much. I may pick up another package so I'll have 100. That should last a while. I used Testor's Model Master glue to attach two pieces together, and then added a piece of Evergreen plastic. As soon as I find that test piece, I'll let you know how it went.

In short, I'm happy with it so far. My Falcon has been staring at me anxiously awaiting completion due to a rear window. Now we can move on. Nothing amazing, just an 80's type street machine, but the early Falcons were a big part of my childhood.

Further testing, and pictures, in the near future.

[Fat Brian]

1 hour ago, SSNJim said:

So, I picked one of these up Tuesday afternoon. Two hours later, I had a rear window for my 60 Falcon coupe. Handy, and easy to use.

I had earlier shaped a new rear window for the Falcon out of a scrap block of pine since I would imagine they're rare as falcon's teeth. I used that as the test for the Mold Press machine (henceforth known as the machine).

I took the machine out of the box and set it up in accordance with the instructions (you do know what those are, right?). The support legs are marked with measurements so you can measure the droop of the plastic sheet or height of the item being molded.

I set my rear window buck in the center of the bottom piece, loaded up a sheet of plastic (they have protective sheets on both sides - dont forget to take them off because they're not mentioned anywhere), and started the process, again IAW the instructions. The first time, it took well over ten minutes to warm the plastic sheet. I turned on the vacuum cleaner, pushed the carrier down, and voila, a nice copy of the rear window. There were some veins around the base, but I didn't care because I only needed the top. There's some discussion in the manual about removing veins and improving the mold, but, again, I didn't care at this point. Maybe later. So, I made another copy. I had left the heater on, so I put a new sheet in and started the heating process. It took less than five minutes to get to temperature. A quick repeat of the vacu-sucking process, and there was another copy.

The second copy I attacked with a couple of pairs of scissors, and ended up with a nice, clean rear window for the Falcon. There is too much of a curve to the window, but that is due to the buck. It's a very nice copy. Depending how I feel about it, I may make another copy or two and modify the buck to have less of a curve.

The plastic sheets are PETG. I did pick up an additional pack of 40 (with 10 free sheets) plastic sheets. The machine only comes with 4. You can complain about the price, but after the 20% discount, the sheets are about the price of a kit and weigh almost twice as much. I may pick up another package so I'll have 100. That should last a while. I used Testor's Model Master glue to attach two pieces together, and then added a piece of Evergreen plastic. As soon as I find that test piece, I'll let you know how it went.

In short, I'm happy with it so far. My Falcon has been staring at me anxiously awaiting completion due to a rear window. Now we can move on. Nothing amazing, just an 80's type street machine, but the early Falcons were a big part of my childhood.

Further testing, and pictures, in the near future.

Jim, what would it take to get one of those Falcon rear windows? I'm in need of one as well.

[misterNNL]

I was about to pull the trigger and buy one of these untill I watched this video and witnessed the huge failure to produce a nice clean part. Thanks for posting that.

[Tom Geiger]

Thanks for the report Jim!

My results were about the same with an original Mattel Vac-u-form unit.  I found that it took me a few tries to get an acceptable clear glass part. With expensive sheets!

Aside from an occasional clear window, I think the era of making parts in a heat forming machine has passed. Parts like hoods and convertible boots are too thin and have very soft edges.  Today we are more likely to go resin cast, and soon enough it will all be 3D printing.