Toning down kit chrome - I remember an article ?

[Goodwrench3]

Hi all:

I remember reading an article in Scale Auto a while back -- maybe a year or two ?

It was about toning down the kit chrome wheels -- adding depth and making them look less "toy like".  I don't mean spraying them with dull cote.   They still appear as chrome, but not the "toy chrome".

Does anyone remember that or what the technique was   ?

Thanks !

 

[RichCostello]

I remember one that talked about using Tamiya Smoke(TS-71) spray paint. It is kind of a black tinted clear coat that tones down the bright kit chrome, and still leaves it shiney. It works great, and is also a great for tinting windows.

[OldNYJim]

I don’t recall the article - but even a simple black wash works WONDERS on making kit chrome look better 

[935k3]

Use a semigloss clear instead of a flat clear. Tamiya's TS-79 is a good choice. Testors was good too but you will not be able to get it anymore.

[Toner283]

Another vote for Tamiya smoke. You can add coats until it looks right depending on whether you're looking for show chrome or older patina'd Chrome.

[espo]

I have used both Tamiya X-19 Smoke and Their Panel Line Accent if you're trying to accent the parting line between say the bumper and a bumper guard. I'm sure there are others but these have worked well for me anyway. 

[Goodwrench3]

19 hours ago, espo said:

I have used both Tamiya X-19 Smoke and Their Panel Line Accent if you're trying to accent the parting line between say the bumper and a bumper guard. I'm sure there are others but these have worked well for me anyway. 

Really I'm just trying to tone down the chrome wheels -- I still want the "shine" -- just not the toy appearance.  I remember in the article they looked like the treatment added warmth or depth.  I do remember now that Tamiya Smoke was one thing they used -- there was another in the article and they showed the comparison.  I'll have to try to find it in my "stacks".

 

[espo]

3 minutes ago, Goodwrench3 said:

Really I'm just trying to tone down the chrome wheels -- I still want the "shine" -- just not the toy appearance.  I remember in the article they looked like the treatment added warmth or depth.  I do remember now that Tamiya Smoke was one thing they used -- there was another in the article and they showed the comparison.  I'll have to try to find it in my "stacks".

 

The Smoke paint is very thin, but you could always thin it some more. Try an old piece of chrome spruce to practice on, especially if you have a section that has some part numbers on it. This will give you an idea of how it will react in the nukes and cranes where the paint will tend to build up. You want a small part of that to happen since it will give you a sense of depth or even shadows that you would find on a 1:1 bumper. I try to apply a very light thin coat of the Smoke with a fat brush and let it run off to the edges.  I'm sure you have some old chrome spruce around and develop a technique that you're comfortable with before you do your model.  

[Goodwrench3]

3 minutes ago, espo said:

The Smoke paint is very thin, but you could always thin it some more. Try an old piece of chrome spruce to practice on, especially if you have a section that has some part numbers on it. This will give you an idea of how it will react in the nukes and cranes where the paint will tend to build up. You want a small part of that to happen since it will give you a sense of depth or even shadows that you would find on a 1:1 bumper. I try to apply a very light thin coat of the Smoke with a fat brush and let it run off to the edges.  I'm sure you have some old chrome spruce around and develop a technique that you're comfortable with before you do your model.  

I had planned on misting the wheels with the Tamiya rattle spray can of "smoke" rather than brushing it on the wheels   ?

 

[espo]

18 minutes ago, Goodwrench3 said:

I had planned on misting the wheels with the Tamiya rattle spray can of "smoke" rather than brushing it on the wheels   ?

 

My only concern would be maybe getting to much paint with a spray can. But then again the old spruce test may prove to be the beat way to see without damaging the wheels. I don't really know the difference between the Smoke and there Panel Line Accent product, but the accent paint would work best when you're detailing any hub cap parting lines or lug nut details. This paint has a very nice fine brush attached to the cap. This helps to pin point areas that you want done. I use it on many other parts of a build and especially the engine details. I had a much the same problem with a '48 Aerosedan I just did. The chrome or polished valve cover and side cover as well as the carbs. The shinny finish was toned down and the raised fins on the parts were more visible. The carbs. did get a coupe of passes until they looked realistic to me.  

[stitchdup]

I use the tamiya smoke but brushed on. It probably works best on bumpers and grilles though as the excess pools in the gaps and looks very effective on the grilles. I've also heard of tinting future or whatever it called now then using it as a dip instead of brushing it on. I haven't tried the future method myself so maybe someone that has could chine in with their experiences. This bumper and grille were done with brushed on tamiya

Edited October 11, 2020 by stitchdup

[espo]

29 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

I use the tamiya smoke but brushed on. It probably works best on bumpers and grilles though as the excess pools in the gaps and looks very effective on the grilles. I've also heard of tinting future or whatever it called now then using it as a dip instead of brushing it on. I haven't tried the future method myself so maybe someone that has could chine in with their experiences. This bumper and grille were done with brushed on tamiya

You mention using Future. Something I try to do on every build is to dip the "Glass" and the Chrome Trim in Future first thing when I start a build. This usually protects the glass from getting scratched along with keeping it in the plastic that is usually is in the box. I also take that and the decals and put them in the bottom of the boxes of the model. The kit chrome can also get scratched or rubbed enough to make the chrome thin and maybe even have to spray them with chrome paint to bring back the finish. The black washes for the bumpers I will do before dipping usually. 

[JohnU]

Another vote for Tamiya smoke. I use the bottle stuff and brush it on. Used it on the rims (not original to the kit) of this Revell Black Widow. You can see the difference to the bumper where I didn’t use it.

[espo]

16 hours ago, JohnU said:

Another vote for Tamiya smoke. I use the bottle stuff and brush it on. Used it on the rims (not original to the kit) of this Revell Black Widow. You can see the difference to the bumper where I didn’t use it.

Great looking '57. Your picture really shows what I was trying to explain. You don't really see the smoke so much as it accents the chrome and the different parts of the bumper and grill assembly.  

[Goodwrench3]

Thanks all !

I tried Tamiya "smoke" brushed on these kit wheels (straight from the bottle).   I think the effect is pretty good.  At least I tried something new.

 

[Dave G.]

19 minutes ago, Goodwrench3 said:

Thanks all !

I tried Tamiya "smoke" brushed on these kit wheels (straight from the bottle).   I think the effect is pretty good.  At least I tried something new.

 

Good job, I like the whole model !

[Steve H]

I’m way late here but another vote for Tamiya smoke. I spray it in light mist coats. 
 

2 light coats...

these wheels have about 6 coats...

Cheers, Steve

[Goodwrench3]

Thanks for posting that !

There was some concern that spraying it might end up putting too much on, so it was recommended to brush it.

Did you spray from a rattle can  ?

 

[Steve H]

On 3/25/2021 at 7:16 AM, Goodwrench3 said:

Thanks for posting that !

There was some concern that spraying it might end up putting too much on, so it was recommended to brush it.

Did you spray from a rattle can  ?

 

Hi Jeff, yes that was straight from the rattle can. I did a test spray on some spruce first. The darker smoke on the Gremlin wheels turned out pretty cool. I will definitely use this technique again.

Cheers, Steve

[John1955]

Frankly, I don't understand the "toy effect" comment at all. On my 1:1 vehicles, the chrome wheels have the same bright shine as the chrome does in plastic model kits. I make sure they do by waxing them a lot. I do agree about not using Dullcote unless the kit is of a more modern vehicle, then Dullcote is the way to go. You might want to try Glosscote over the chrome though. 

[peteski]

17 hours ago, John1955 said:

Frankly, I don't understand the "toy effect" comment at all. On my 1:1 vehicles, the chrome wheels have the same bright shine as the chrome does in plastic model kits. I make sure they do by waxing them a lot. I do agree about not using Dullcote unless the kit is of a more modern vehicle, then Dullcote is the way to go. You might want to try Glosscote over the chrome though. 

I'm with you John.  To me model chrome should be as bright and shiny as on the 1:1 vehicles.  Sure, if someone is  modeling old, dirty/weathered vehicle, the chrome parts will not be as shiny as on a new car, but even on those weathered vehicles, chrome usually seems to stand out and shine.

This dulling-down of chrome sort of reminds me (in an opposite way) of what military aircraft models often do - they grossly exaggerate the panel lines all over the aircraft. They make them dark and deep. The panel lines on 1:1 aircraft are barely visible. They don't look like black 1/4" gaps between panels.