Sam I Am Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 I need to add a couple thin styrene strips to the edges of a hood to widen it. Because of it being such a fragile glue point, and that it will have to be worked on for shaping, I was wondering what glue would be the strongest for this application. Liquid, super, epoxy ? Any input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 If both the hood and strip are styrene then any liquid cement should do the trick. Those cements actually dissolve the plastic's surfaces and "weld" the parts together. The basically become a single piece. That should result in the strongest possible joint. I like the Tamiya extra thin cement, and I would also wait couple of days before shaping or sanding the glued pieces (to allow for all the solvent to evaporate). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 (edited) I would also use Tamiya extra thin. Rather than trying to glue two thin edges together, I lengthened this hood by glueing a wider strip flat to the back edge, forming a “T”. Once it was thoroughly dry, I filed and sanded the inside and outside down to the same thickness as the hood. Edited October 14, 2020 by NOBLNG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 That's two for liquid. Not sure which brand I have, it might just be an old bottle of testors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Testors is just some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in a small bottle. MEK evaporates fairly slowly. While that is desired in some instances I think here I would use a faster evaporating liquid cement. That is the cement both of us recommended. That cement evaporates much faster than MEK alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 I never liked the testors stuff because of the real slow cure time. Good to know about the Tamiya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 If you want faster evaporating, use methylene chloride, aka Weld-On 3 or Weld-On 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plowboy Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 I do a lot of splicing and adding styrene to edges for better fit. I always use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. You can't beat it IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 They make a quick setting version that is my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Yes, a methylene chloride cement would be best IMHO. Instead of cutting strips, glue your hood edge-on to a flat sheet of styrene and then carve it down to shape later. I'm planning to do exactly this to widen the hood of the AMT '55 Bel Air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Thanks everyone for the input. I will order some new Tamiya liquid glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Another vote for liquid. Also, I have found with using liquid glue due to the melt/weld of it, more often than not after proper sanding, no filler is needed..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 9 hours ago, tbill said: Another vote for liquid. Also, I have found with using liquid glue due to the melt/weld of it, more often than not after proper sanding, no filler is needed..... True, but I also experienced shrinkage (slight sink line) at the joint (I assume due to the solvent evaporating from the plastic joint). That is why I recommend gluing the parts together, then waiting (few days) for all the solvent to evaporate, and only then sanding and finishing the part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 14 hours ago, NOBLNG said: They make a quick setting version that is my favorite. The quick setting is the best glue I have ever used, love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. It really worked well, and with no filling needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Kind of off topic here but instead of a new thread, need suggestions for a safe glue applicator that just dispences a tiny amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 hours ago, TransAmMike said: Kind of off topic here but instead of a new thread, need suggestions for a safe glue applicator that just dispences a tiny amount. The brush in Tamiya's glue is very small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, 935k3 said: The brush in Tamiya's glue is very small. Yes, if you get a big drop on the end of it, just touch it to the inside of the bottle neck to drain off the excess. It works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 6 hours ago, TransAmMike said: Kind of off topic here but instead of a new thread, need suggestions for a safe glue applicator that just dispences a tiny amount. For which specific glue? There are dozen different adhesives out there, requiring different types of dispensers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Peter I thought that I should mention what glue. I like to use the Super Glue brand sold at the Dollar Store. Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, TransAmMike said: Peter I thought that I should mention what glue. I like to use the Super Glue brand sold at the Dollar Store. Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast?? I have the same problem with super thin CA glue. There is NO WAY I can apply it from the bottle. First the nozzle is usually plugged and I have to open it with a pin. Then it will dispense way too much. I usually put a couple of drops in a bottle cap and use an applicator made from a thin piece of wire. I also made an applicator for the kicker from a large sewing needle that I ground the tip off of to make a tiny fork. It would likely work better than the wire for the glue also.? You can most likely buy special applicators at a hobby shop? The Tamiya extra thin quick set will get your parts stuck together quite fast, but takes a fair while to completely evaporate and gain full strength. The medium or extra thick CA glues are easier to manage but also dry slow unless an accelerator is used. What type of joints are you needing it to dry quickly for? Things like door handles, mirrors and wipers, or....? Edited December 7, 2020 by NOBLNG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Greg I use a pointed toothpick the way you use the needle and as you said, the darn nozzle on the glue bottle stops up so yeah, gotta poke it with a needle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) 9 hours ago, TransAmMike said: Peter I thought that I should mention what glue. I like to use the Super Glue brand sold at the Dollar Store. Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast?? OK, Here is how I apply CA and accelerator in small amounts and in very controlled way. Click on the arrow in the upper rigth to go right to my post (not to the start of the thread). And it is "sewing", not"sawing" needles - silly typo! Edited December 8, 2020 by peteski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Great info guys! I was just wondering about this very topic. I have to install drip rails on my 66 Malibu build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 On 10/14/2020 at 7:11 AM, NOBLNG said: They make a quick setting version that is my favorite. Are these a strong glue? How fast do they dry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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