'32 Chopped Sedan Street Rod

[SpeedShift]

Dealing with painting now. Anyone out there use the Don Yost technique....Testors enamel thinned with lacquer thinner ?

I have a paasche double action airbrush with an AS186 compressor with pressure regulator...set at 32 psi.

Testors black gloss enamel in the classic little bottle, cut with Jasco Green Lacquer thinner from Lowes for good smooth flow.

First try was less than expected...after many light mist coats - building up to get the final gloss coat... the orange peel was to say the least, disappointing.

After curing three days....knocked most of it down with the LMG kit...4000 thru 12000, but the paint came off the high points on the body shell, and the high gloss is gone,

Respraying another coat .......not sure if the orange peel can be avoided.

I actually have the paint thinned 50 / 50 vs the recommended 2 part paint  to 1 part thinner to try and keep it fluid and level out.

 

 

Edited January 22, 2021 by SpeedShift

[slusher]

I really like your interior. Love the steering wheel...

[SpeedShift]

Thanks Carl....that is a PE item from Detail Master no. DM-3126 Spyder Steering Wheel.

Was sitting in the parts stash waiting for the right project. 

Edited January 22, 2021 by SpeedShift

[Draggon]

A thought on the paint. I've been airbrushing the "Yost" way since before Yost. After the final color coat I'd make sure the finish is smooth and even "polish" it with Soft Scrub or Comet. Then I thin the paint way down, at least 40/60 or more, and literally blow the paint on at about 35psi. That gives me a great gloss, fast drying time, and a pretty hard surface. 

Edited January 24, 2021 by Draggon

[SpeedShift]

My first attempt  at painting ended up with orange peel.

Had to set it aside, let it cure and knock down the OP with the LMG KIT.

Second attempt had less orange peel but still not acceptable. I'll  have to wait for it to cure and have a second go at it.

In the meantime I mocked up some grill sell artwork, in keeping with the Black widow/ coffin theme.

If I like it,  I'll probably do it on thin brass sheet.

 

 

 

 

[SpeedShift]

10 minutes ago, Draggon said:

A thought on the paint. I've been airbrushing the "Yost" way since before Yost. After the final color coat I'd make sure the finish is smooth and even "polish" it with Soft Scrub or Comet. Then I thin the paint way down, at least 40/60 or more, and literally blow the paint on at about 35psi. That gives me a great gloss, fast drying time, and a pretty hard surface. 

Wow...that's interesting.   So it seems some degree of leveling the surface/orange peel is necessary with the color coat, and you regain the gloss with a fluid 40/60 after some aggressive polishing out?

Edited January 24, 2021 by SpeedShift

[Draggon]

26 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

Wow...that's interesting.   So it seems some degree of leveling the surface/orange peel is necessary with the color coat, and you regain the gloss with a fluid 40/60 after some aggressive polishing out?

Yes, but I should add that I wasn't getting much orange peel the Yost way. Using Soft Scrub often resulted in a smooth semi-gloss finish and wasn't aggressive. Thinning the paint so much was, as you said, only to get the gloss back. I can't remember how I figured this out. Over the years I've wondered if the airbrush (Binks Wren) or the older paint formulations with more pigment could have been the reason for the success of this method. 

Looking at the pics of your paintjob, I'm wondering why there is all that orange peel. It actually looks to me like the paint was too thick. Maybe it's the thinner or the air temp. 

By the way, I love your work on this so far! 

Edited January 24, 2021 by Draggon

[SpeedShift]

3 hours ago, Draggon said:

Yes, but I should add that I wasn't getting much orange peel the Yost way. Using Soft Scrub often resulted in a smooth semi-gloss finish and wasn't aggressive. Thinning the paint so much was, as you said, only to get the gloss back. I can't remember how I figured this out. Over the years I've wondered if the airbrush (Binks Wren) or the older paint formulations with more pigment could have been the reason for the success of this method. 

Looking at the pics of your paintjob, I'm wondering why there is all that orange peel. It actually looks to me like the paint was too thick. Maybe it's the thinner or the air temp. 

By the way, I love your work on this so far! 

That has me perplexed....the orange peel was actually worse than this picture,  on the previous try, and I cut the paint/thinner 50/50.....Yost recommends a 2 to 1paint/thinner...go figure.

It was a sunny day, air temp in the 50's.....not sure what the humidity was but it wasn't raining or high.

 

[Draggon]

5 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

That has me perplexed....the orange peel was actually worse than this picture,  on the previous try, and I cut the paint/thinner 50/50.....Yost recommends a 2 to 1paint/thinner...go figure.

It was a sunny day, air temp in the 50's.....not sure what the humidity was but it wasn't raining or high.

 

The air temp is the problem. I should have asked that right off. If you google you'll find results that say it's OK to spray as low as 50 degrees, but your results prove that wrong. Somewhere around 70 degrees or more would be ideal. I've airbrushed when it's over 90 and dang does the paint flow well!

[alan barton]

I would have to agree about the temperature!  I love it when we have a summer day around 100 degrees - the paint just flows beautifully.  My favourite is Testors Classic Black straight from the can - comes out like a mirror!  I try to do bodywork in winter so that I have things ready to paint in summer, or looking at it the other way, I try to paint in summer so I have plenty to assemble in winter!

Love the angled chop by the way - this is going to be mean!

Cheers

Alan

Edited January 26, 2021 by alan barton

[SpeedShift]

Once again......thanks much you guys.

Looks like I'll be using elbow grease and sanding pads on this one.

 

[SpeedShift]

Downtime on the other projects, so I grabbed the LMG kit and started working on all the orange peel on the paint job.

Here's is the status as of today.

Got my aftermarket parts delivery, so now to think about the top end of the flathead.....

[SpeedShift]

While waiting to resolve the paint issue on the body shell, I returned to the engine question.

I went over my recent flathead parts stash and new arrivals, and looked over my resource file for interesting flathead engines.

I think I found an interesting picture in Dain Gingerelli's "Ford Hot Rods" that will match my Replicas and Miniatures resin flathead engine block and trans, dual carb intake and vintage resin bell air cleaners, along with the detailed resin Stromberg 97s from Model Car Garage.

I tack glued it all together to see if it will tuck under the hood...looks like it will fit.

The second flathead picture is from Dain Gingerellis "Idea Book :  Hot Rods, Roadsters, Coupes and Customs" which is an excellent collection of hundreds of color photos of everything from engines chasis tailights and interiors.  
I'll use resin Offy flathead valve covers from Model Car Garage, unless I dig up some Navarros.

Edited February 20, 2021 by SpeedShift

[bill-e-boy]

With Testors paints I have always thinned it 1x paint 1 1/2 thinners - Testors thinners or laquer thinners - Airbrush is Badger 250 running at 22-25 pound

I have a hot box where the paint and model sit before, during and after paint - just a big 2ft square box with a 40W lamp - and dimmed for a couple of days to post cure

Generally orange peel is light and easily rubbed out with polishing kit

One other trick is application - a couple of light coats, a couple of wet coats and progressively add thinner with a couple more wet coats - watch out with metallics as you can get tiger stripping when using over thin paint

My method FWIW

[Bullybeef]

15 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

While waiting to resolve the paint issue on the body shell, I returned to the engine question.

I went over my recent flathead parts stash and new arrivals, and looked over my resource file for interesting flathead engines.

I think I found an interesting picture in Dain Gingerelli's "Ford Hot Rods" that will match my Replicas and Miniatures resin flathead engine block and trans, dual carb intake and vintage resin bell air cleaners, along with the detailed resin Stromberg 97s from Model Car Garage.

I tack glued it all together to see if it will tuck under the hood...looks like it will fit.

The second flathead picture is from Dain Gingerellis "Idea Book :  Hot Rods, Roadsters, Coupes and Customs" which is an excellent collection of hundreds of color photos of everything from engines chasis tailights and interiors.  
I'll use resin Offy flathead valve covers from Model Car Garage, unless I dig up some Navarros.

That’s looking pretty awesome at this point, are you going to do the engine in Ford green or hot rod red? 

[SpeedShift]

Good question...not sure yet.

The overall scheme  so far is basic black with grey interior.....with Alclad chrome parts...wasn't sure if I should deviate from that.

 

What say you all?

[Bullybeef]

Not sure if this helps, but with a bit of patience and these three testors paints I was able to get a fairly good Ford green. 

[SpeedShift]

Darn, and I was just at Hobby Town.

Their Testors Model Masters rack is near empty and the Model Master line is discontinued.

First bottle hard to read...looks like Flat Hunter Green ?

Looks nice.

[Bullybeef]

2 hours ago, SpeedShift said:

Darn, and I was just at Hobby Town.

Their Testors Model Masters rack is near empty and the Model Master line is discontinued.

First bottle hard to read...looks like Flat Hunter Green ?

Looks nice.

Yes flat hunter green

[SpeedShift]

I think Revel 48 Ford coupe has Navarro flathead valve covers.

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 2021 by SpeedShift

[Bullybeef]

3 minutes ago, SpeedShift said:

I think Revel 48 Ford coupe has Navarro flathead valve covers.

 

 

 

Yep it does, sadly the greased lightning convertible, nor the police car 2 in 1didnt get any of the good optional parts.

[SpeedShift]

Now that I have an engine block to work with I made a driveshaft , and can get some other suspension chassis work done. 

Exhaust headers and mufflers are in black base coat for ALCLAD.

 

[styromaniac]

Looked for that Revell 48 Custom Coupe kit with the Navarro heads and manifold parts on the online bidding site...its commanding some pretty righteous bucks for a relatively recent release. Then again everything seems to be going up price wise these days.

[Mr. Metallic]

1 hour ago, styromaniac said:

Looked for that Revell 48 Custom Coupe kit with the Navarro heads and manifold parts on the online bidding site...its commanding some pretty righteous bucks for a relatively recent release. Then again everything seems to be going up price wise these days.

It didn't seem like it was around for very long, so maybe it was a true "special edition" like the box says. Come to think of it, most of the "special edition" kits that I can recall really weren't in the catalog very long. 37 Ford pickup with the pseudo-38 parts, the 32 sedan. Can't think of any others right now

Anyway, I know that doesn't help you find a set. Maybe post a wanted request here and ask if someone would part with just the heads?

[larman]

1 hour ago, styromaniac said:

Looked for that Revell 48 Custom Coupe kit with the Navarro heads and manifold parts on the online bidding site...its commanding some pretty righteous bucks for a relatively recent release. Then again everything seems to be going up price wise these days.

It was weird because they showed up at Ollies for, I think around $7.50, not too long after they came out and then they disappeared. Usually, a model that winds up at Ollies means it was an overstock, or it didn't sell that well. Now when they show up on Ebay, they are selling north of $30 plus shipping. The convertible and stock coupe are not hard to find at all, and are significantly cheaper, but also don't have all the super nice custom and flathead parts.