Window trim?

[KWT]

Wondering if you guys could tell me what you use to replicate these things?

I've used Sharpies, but it doesn't really look the part. Maybe I'm not doing it right?

[Bainford]

I mask and paint after the final polishing. I use BMF as the masking medium. Tamiya semi gloss black acrylic sprayed lightly usually looks pretty good. 

Edited January 7, 2021 by Bainford

[NOBLNG]

Tamiya makes an XF-85 rubber black paint.

[Venom]

51 minutes ago, Bainford said:

I mask and paint after the final polishing. I use BMF as the masking medium. Tamiya semi gloss black acrylic sprayed lightly usually looks pretty good. 

X2... I use different paint though and I brush it on instead of spraying. The results are great if your masking job is clean and well adhered.

[1972coronet]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

Tamiya makes an XF-85 rubber black paint.

Bingo ! And , that stuff does , indeed , look like black rubber when it dries !

[SCRWDRVR]

I use this

[Erik Smith]

Mask and paint for the cleanest look. Tamiya makes a magical tape for curves. Or you can use BMF and reverse the normal procedure - apply as normal but peal away BMF on the trim portion, then paint.

[GeeBee]

With any window surround that needs to be black i use Tamiya rubber black TS-82 decanted and applied with the airbrush, mask the parts with regular Tamiya masking tape, apply the rubber black in light coats.

 

[stitchdup]

I just use duplicolour flat black, but once its dry i rub my fingers through my hair then use the natural skin oils to give it the sheen of rubber. I do the same to bring up floor detail n chassis

[KWT]

Thank for the info guys. Much appreciated.

[Brutalform]

As another option, you can use Vallejo paint. Just carefully mask, and brush it on. The brush strokes level nicely, unlike the Tamiya acrylics, and if you make a mistake, it will wipe off with water before it dries. If you have a steady hand, you might be able to skip the masking. 
Just use the “air” version, so thinning with water isn’t necessary. 

Edited January 23, 2021 by Brutalform

[KWT]

Thanks.. another avenue to look at is always appreciated.

[Venom]

On 1/6/2021 at 9:25 PM, Erik Smith said:

Mask and paint for the cleanest look. Tamiya makes a magical tape for curves. Or you can use BMF and reverse the normal procedure - apply as normal but peal away BMF on the trim portion, then paint.

Hey Erik, could you please tell me what that Tamiya tape is called or post a pic of it please? Thanks?

[peteski]

Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves.  It is some sort of a plastic (vinyl?)  tape.

 

[Erik Smith]

4 hours ago, Venom said:

Hey Erik, could you please tell me what that Tamiya tape is called or post a pic of it please? Thanks?

Yup, the stuff Peter posted right above. 

[Venom]

6 hours ago, peteski said:

Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves.  It is some sort of a plastic (vinyl?)  tape.

 

2 hours ago, Erik Smith said:

Yup, the stuff Peter posted right above. 

Cool, thanks guys. Just ordered myself some.?

[Zippi]

Nice options to think about.  

[PatW]

I also add my thanks on this subject. The times I've painted the window surround first not realising that the windows are fitted from the outside! Then trying to use a sharpie that's far too wide and getting all over the aperture/door/roof!  Masking though again has been a nightmare but I must persevere! Panel lines and using wash is another to mug up on!  

[Odeman]

I shake too much to mask and cut out the window lines. I run off the lines and cut the paint. I also have trashed some paint jobs because of the masking tape residue left on the paint. I see that I should clear coat and polish prior to masking??? Thanks folks for any advise.

[JollySipper]

5 hours ago, Odeman said:

I shake too much to mask and cut out the window lines.

What you might could try is to get a sheet of foil and mask with it.... What I generally do is cut the foil while it's still on the sheet with a straight edge and a fresh blade. When you lift the foil off of the sheet, you'll have a perfectly straight piece..... Then just place the foil along the window trim. You can get SOME bend with a strip of foil. The thinner the strip, the more you can curve it...... Then just paint your trim, and remove the foil!

oh, welcome to the forum!

[Odeman]

Thanks...I do appreciate this.

[Odeman]

I remasked the window trim and painted. The damn tape again left a residue and I used all Tamiya tape. I clear coated the car and let it sit for two days but still got tape residue that would only come off by sanding with 2000 grit paper. I tried goo gone, WD-40 and the residue would not come off... The sanding worked and putting on another coat of clear rendered a great result. Tape residue!!! any remedies or methods anyone can suggest? Appreciate it.

[BDSchindler]

I found that Sharpie permanent markers give you a "purple tint" that is not believable.  There was a post here on MCM regarding this very same topic...someone suggested "Sharpie Industrial" fine point permanent markers.  These are different that normal Sharpie Permanent markers.  The Industrial ones are more of a true black as opposed to dark purple.

So I took a trip to Office Depot and bought a 3-pack.  I chiseled one down to a fine wedge shape and used one to do the window trim of the Bronco below.  It was with one coat initially...let it fully dry overnight and hit it a second time.  No streaks, covered like paint.

[bbowser]

Tape residue sticks best to itself.  Try using another piece to go over it a few times to pull it off your paint.  I've used this method a few times with success.

[peteski]

21 hours ago, Odeman said:

I remasked the window trim and painted. The damn tape again left a residue and I used all Tamiya tape. I clear coated the car and let it sit for two days but still got tape residue that would only come off by sanding with 2000 grit paper. I tried goo gone, WD-40 and the residue would not come off... The sanding worked and putting on another coat of clear rendered a great result. Tape residue!!! any remedies or methods anyone can suggest? Appreciate it.

If none of those liquids removed tape residue, and only sanding took care of the problem, that to me indicates that it is  not adhesive residue but the solvent in the paint you used permeated the tape and actually softened the plastic, so the tape's adhesive imprinted into the plastic. Either change the type of paint used, spray lighter layers, and remove the tape as soon as the paint flashes over.