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Posted

I'm sure this has been asked before but I have looked through pages of search engine results without success.  I'm working on an AMT; a bunch of parts are chrome that should be painted.  I'm a returning modeler after an absence of more years I want to admit to.  Will chrome plastic accept paint with a good bond & good results , or should it be stripped first?  And if it should be stripped, what works well to do that? 

Posted

I prefer to remove plating from parts that I want to paint.  Those parts have at least the equivalent of a heavy coat of paint on them, in the form of the lacquer undercoat that helps the plating (vacuum metalizing) adhere to the plastic.  I use the "purple" cleaner (used to be called Castrol Super Clean, then called Super Clean, the one I have now is Purple Power) as it takes off the lacquer undercoat as well as the plating.  If you strip a part molded in white and then plated, if you get everything then the part should be plain white when it is stripped.  If it has yellowish areas on it, then some of the undercoat is still on it.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Mark said:

I prefer to remove plating from parts that I want to paint.  Those parts have at least the equivalent of a heavy coat of paint on them, in the form of the lacquer undercoat that helps the plating (vacuum metalizing) adhere to the plastic.  I use the "purple" cleaner (used to be called Castrol Super Clean, then called Super Clean, the one I have now is Purple Power) as it takes off the lacquer undercoat as well as the plating.  If you strip a part molded in white and then plated, if you get everything then the part should be plain white when it is stripped.  If it has yellowish areas on it, then some of the undercoat is still on it.

Thanks Mark.  If I might ask: what is "Purple Power", & where can I find it? Do you just soak the parts & walk away until the chrome & lacquer are gone?

Posted
3 hours ago, Kevinch said:

Thanks Mark.  If I might ask: what is "Purple Power", & where can I find it? Do you just soak the parts & walk away until the chrome & lacquer are gone?

Mark - never mind.  I found it & how to use it.  I'll blame age & a long, long day.....?

Posted

If the Purple Power is strong (hasn't been through a lot of uses, and hasn't got water or condensation in it) fifteen minutes to half an hour should do the job.  Make sure all of the lacquer is off (thick areas or runs may require some assistance), clean the parts well, then treat them like unplated parrs (which they now are).

Posted

Deuces, where did you find that stuff?  Can I get it at Maynards?

I thought that morphed into the purple power stuff several years ago.  The names changed but the product didn't..

Did Castrol sell it off - only to change to blue and use the same old name?

Posted

I haven't needed to buy the stuff lately, but I don't recall seeing the Castrol branded product last time I was shopping for it.  The Purple Power works fine for me, and I won't need more any time soon because I use something else to get paint off of plastic parts.  

Posted

Super Clean was sold off by Castrol several years ago. Purple Power is a Walmart weaker version. I am in Canada and most stores only carry Super Clean. Fill a plastic container with Super Clean, then drop the chrome parts in the Super Clean and walk away. If your container has a top, put it on, prevents splashing, spilling, cats drinking it. Also, make sure you wear gloves to protect your skin as it may cause burns or other problems, especially if you have a cut. I have used Super Clean to remove chrome and paint and found that after about 30 cars, it gets weak :) 

Posted

Easy off oven cleaner works well for chrome removal, I use the stuff with the yellow cap. Some chrome is plated better than others depending on the kit. You will need a container with a lid when using this.

Posted
15 hours ago, Mark said:

I haven't needed to buy the stuff lately, but I don't recall seeing the Castrol branded product last time I was shopping for it.  The Purple Power works fine for me, and I won't need more any time soon because I use something else to get paint off of plastic parts.  

Are you willing to share with us your new plastic-compatible paint remover?

Posted

Check some of your local auto parts stores. That's where I have to get mine now if you want full strength. 

Posted
16 hours ago, peteski said:

Are you willing to share with us your new plastic-compatible paint remover?

Nothing special, others here used it before I tried it...LA's Totally Awesome cleaner.  I read about it here, saw it at a Family Dollar store ($3 for two quarts), and tried it.  I have since bought a gallon at Ollie's for five bucks (actually less as I had a coupon).

Posted
14 minutes ago, Mark said:

Nothing special, others here used it before I tried it...LA's Totally Awesome cleaner.  I read about it here, saw it at a Family Dollar store ($3 for two quarts), and tried it.  I have since bought a gallon at Ollie's for five bucks (actually less as I had a coupon).

Ah, thanks!  I bought couple of bottles, but didn't have a chance to try it yet.  I'm glad to know it works for you.

Posted

Oven Cleaner will also remove chrome, in about 10 mins, maybe 15 for the stubborn areas. put your parts on a glass surface, or in the sink, shake the can spray it on the parts, then wash it off, you might need a tooth brush to delicately clean the parts, I'd wear gloves & do it in a ventilated area...

 

Posted

Just to add some info to this thread, if only sections of the "chromed" part need to be repainted, like chrome wheels that have black centers or segments, then there is  no need to partially strip the metallic coating. The paint will stick to it well enough.

Posted

I wouldn't attempt to remove only part of the plating on a part...I'd be concerned about the removal medium still "working" after paint is applied in the desired areas.  For mag wheel spokes and such, I paint over the chrome, leaving things like lug nuts and center caps plated.  If the plating on the wheel is overly thick, I'll set it aside and look for a set with good plating.

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