Testers glue

[Rodent]

3 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

When I was ten I lived in Jersey City for that year. An old man on our street would send me to the store daily for two packs of Chesterfields.. I don’t remember the numbers but there was a few cents left for me to buy candy.

Fool! Why weren't you saving it for model kits?

[Rodent]

3 hours ago, SSNJim said:

I like the orange tubes for long joins like airplane fuselages and ship hulls, where it can take a few minutes to get everything aligned and clamped. 

I have issues with the various liquid glues on two piece engine/transmission halves. If I use CA, I wind up with an engine glued to my finger. If I use Tamiya or the other brush-on glues, it dries before I have the entire surface covered. I like the thicker solvent glues for those applications because it helps with hiding the seam.

[peteski]

25 minutes ago, Rodent said:

If I use CA, I wind up with an engine glued to my finger.

Then you're not doing  it right.   
MY preferred glue for models (of all types) is CA (and accelerator).

[NOBLNG]

55 minutes ago, Rodent said:

I have issues with the various liquid glues on two piece engine/transmission halves. If I use CA, I wind up with an engine glued to my finger. If I use Tamiya or the other brush-on glues, it dries before I have the entire surface covered. I like the thicker solvent glues for those applications because it helps with hiding the seam.

For the Tamiya extra thin cement, you’re supposed to put the parts together...then apply the cement. It will wick itself into the seams.

[Rodent]

54 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

For the Tamiya extra thin cement, you’re supposed to put the parts together...then apply the cement. It will wick itself into the seams.

That makes more sense for a ship hull where you can do it from the inside (to me anyway). I haven't had great luck with engine/transmission halves. If I can somewhat get them stuck together, I can go back over the outside seams and that usually works OK.

[Richard Bartrop]

44 minutes ago, Rodent said:

That makes more sense for a ship hull where you can do it from the inside (to me anyway). I haven't had great luck with engine/transmission halves. If I can somewhat get them stuck together, I can go back over the outside seams and that usually works OK.

I usually touch the brush some place that's going to be covered by another part, or some spot that isn't going to show on the finished model.  It also helps not to overload the brush, and to keep you fingers off the seam while you're applying glue.  In any case, the seam is probably going to have to be sanded anyhow.

[peteski]

When gluing halves of (unpainted) objects that have rough surface (like a transmission casting), and using a pointy brush to flow thin liquid cement into the joint, even if some cement gets outside of the joint, it will evaporate quickly, not really affecting the surface finish.  When the joint is then smoothed and painted there will not be any visible scars from where the glue got outside the joint.

If you paint the parts before gluing, then you;re on your own (and you will have a visible  seam, regardless  whether any glue got outside the joint or not).

[slusher]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

When gluing halves of (unpainted) objects that have rough surface (like a transmission casting), and using a pointy brush to flow thin liquid cement into the joint, even if some cement gets outside of the joint, it will evaporate quickly, not really affecting the surface finish.  When the joint is then smoothed and painted there will not be any visible scars from where the glue got outside the joint.

If you paint the parts before gluing, then you;re on your own (and you will have a visible  seam, regardless  whether any glue got outside the joint or not).

I agree, I build my engines 70% complete before paint..

[NOBLNG]

8 hours ago, peteski said:

If you paint the parts before gluing, then you;re on your own (and you will have a visible  seam, regardless  whether any glue got outside the joint or not).

And any glue will make a mess at that point, especially the old tube glue.?

[Kromolly]

On 2/24/2021 at 6:57 PM, peteski said:

Then you're not doing  it right.   
MY preferred glue for models (of all types) is CA (and accelerator).

I would love to hear what the "right" way is because I have the same problem mostly with the thin 1-3 second CA glue, which I love as long as the part doesn't become another appendage. Hard to see, hard to control, and before I know it I'm reaching for the finger nail polish remover to free myself.

[Bills72sj]

1 hour ago, Kromolly said:

I would love to hear what the "right" way is because I have the same problem mostly with the thin 1-3 second CA glue, which I love as long as the part doesn't become another appendage. Hard to see, hard to control, and before I know it I'm reaching for the finger nail polish remover to free myself.

I use a number of adhesives but I kind of prefer red tube Testors. The bond is strong and not brittle like CA. My method is to put a piece of 2" wide masking tape on the desk to my right (as though it would be used for mixing 2 part epoxy). I put 1/4 to 5/16 dollop of Testors on it. I use a round wooden toothpick to dip in it and apply to one half of the parts to be joined. You will have much better control of the application over squeezing it from the tube to the part(s). Press the pieces together and align them perfectly. I may then clamp them if needed. Let cure for 24 hours. 5-15 second CA gel works as well but can unbond with enough leverage on long parts. It also like to fog chrome, clear and glossy parts. Plastruct liquid works well for large surfaces with tight gaps. However the solvent is potent enough to mess up smooth surfaces if it exits the joint or is applied too heavily. I have left a few fingerprints in some parts due to that.

[charlie8575]

I keep a tube of Testors around for certain applications, like big seams or parts that require fiddling with while assembling, so it certainly has its uses.

I usually use Model Master with the metal tip. However, as the price of that has gone into orbit, I tried the octagonal bottle Tamiya, and might pour a little of that in a syringe bottle for places where the brush isn't a useful. It seems to be a good substitute for the Model Master. I'm curious to try Revell's Contacta.

Charlie Larkin

[peteski]

2 hours ago, Kromolly said:

I would love to hear what the "right" way is because I have the same problem mostly with the thin 1-3 second CA glue, which I love as long as the part doesn't become another appendage. Hard to see, hard to control, and before I know it I'm reaching for the finger nail polish remover to free myself.

I think you combined the statements I made in separate posts.  I didn't say that CA glue was the "right" way.  I use multiple adhesives when I build models,, and even mutliple viscosity of CA glue. The "right" statement was specifically about gluing prepainted parts.

I agree that the extra thin CA is very runny, but it has its applications.  If for what you're using it, it makes a mess, use a thicker viscosity CA, and set it quickly after you align the parts, with a dab of BSI brand accelerator applied on a Micro-brush.

I don't want to hijack this thread to discuss CA glue, but if you want, check out the following thread and my replies there, showing what CA glue and glue applicators II use.

 

Edited February 26, 2021 by peteski

[Zippi]

Guys....I'm building my first model since 40+ years ago.  Yeah, it's been a min.  I'm headed to the hobby shop later today to look for the AMT 1950 Chevy truck since I can't find a 49.  I have the full size 1949 Chevy 5 window pickup and want to build the model.  I've been into RC planes for the past 40+ years and use CA glues for balsa/Bass wood.  My question is, back in the day I used Testers.  What CA glue or other would be capatable for these models?  I have these two on hand.  They do not say on the back what material they are ok for.  

Edited February 26, 2021 by Zippi
New image

[Kromolly]

11 hours ago, peteski said:

I think you combined the statements I made in separate posts.  I didn't say that CA glue was the "right" way.  I use multiple adhesives when I build models,, and even mutliple viscosity of CA glue. The "right" statement was specifically about gluing prepainted parts.

I agree that the extra thin CA is very runny, but it has its applications.  If for what you're using it, it makes a mess, use a thicker viscosity CA, and set it quickly after you align the parts, with a dab of BSI brand accelerator applied on a Micro-brush.

I don't want to hijack this thread to discuss CA glue, but if you want, check out the following thread and my replies there, showing what CA glue and glue applicators II use.

 

No, I didn't combine your posts.  I was quoting your reply to Rodent who said he ends up with the engine glued to his fingers, which is exactly the problem I have had with the thin CA glue.  Your reply was "Then you're not doing it right."  I was wondering what "right" is.  Thank you for the link, there is a lot of good information in there.  My wife is a dental assistant and instantly recognized the Dappen glasses.  That looks like a good tool to have in the arsenal, along with some modified needles and such as applicators.  That was helpful, thank you.

[Tom Geiger]

I agree that thin CA is like water with a mind of its own!

I use mostly the BSI thick CA in the Hobby Lobby branded bottle

[peteski]

36 minutes ago, Kromolly said:

No, I didn't combine your posts.  I was quoting your reply to Rodent who said he ends up with the engine glued to his fingers, which is exactly the problem I have had with the thin CA glue.  Your reply was "Then you're not doing it right."  I was wondering what "right" is.  Thank you for the link, there is a lot of good information in there.  My wife is a dental assistant and instantly recognized the Dappen glasses.  That looks like a good tool to have in the arsenal, along with some modified needles and such as applicators.  That was helpful, thank you.

You're welcome. Looks like it was me who wasn't paying attention.  I use CA all the time and I don't recall the last time I glued my fingers to anything.  And when I did, it was likely not while using the glue on a model, but accidentally spilling it.  But (as I showed in the other thread) I rarely apply it to the glue joint directly from the applicator on the bottle. And if I do, it is never the thin CA, but usually medium or thick viscosity.

Thanks for providing the name of those little dental cups.  I had no ideal they were called Dappen glasses. They are very handy for modeling tasks.  They are heavy, and stable on the bench, and perfect as vessels for holding small amounts of paint or glue.

As I mentioned, I also find the AC accelerator to be indispensable for my modeling.  And after trying several brands, I find that the BSI brand is by far the best.  Funny company name, (Bob Smith industries), but excellent products.  Bob Smith sounds like a generic name someone would give when checking into a hotel.

[Rick L]

On 2/24/2021 at 9:31 PM, Rodent said:

I have issues with the various liquid glues on two piece engine/transmission halves. If I use CA, I wind up with an engine glued to my finger. If I use Tamiya or the other brush-on glues, it dries before I have the entire surface covered. I like the thicker solvent glues for those applications because it helps with hiding the seam.

The best way in my humble opinion is to pour some Tamiya extra thin cement into a precision needle-tip squeeze  bottle. These bottles use stainless steel luer lock needles that control the flow of the solvent without getting it all over the place. I prefer the oval shape bottle so it won’t roll off the workbench and a .007 I’d. Aperture. The bottle can be purchased through McMaster Carr for $5.00. and needles can be purchased for $4.00.

 

[NOBLNG]

33 minutes ago, Rick L said:

The best way in my humble opinion is to pour some Tamiya extra thin cement into a precision needle-tip squeeze  bottle. These bottles use stainless steel luer lock needles that control the flow of the solvent without getting it all over the place. I prefer the oval shape bottle so it won’t roll off the workbench and a .007 I’d. Aperture. The bottle can be purchased through McMaster Carr for $5.00. and needles can be purchased for $4.00.

 

Too bad that wouldn’t work for the thin CA. ?

[Rick L]

2 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Too bad that wouldn’t work for the thin CA. ?

 That would be a problem LOL, but being able to control the flow of glue would eliminate the need for CA in many aspects.

[peteski]

2 hours ago, Rick L said:

 That would be a problem LOL, but being able to control the flow of glue would eliminate the need for CA in many aspects.

Eliminate the need for CA?  How? Not sure if I follow.  What if I'm gluing resin or metal parts?

For thin CA I very successfully use the "fork type" applicators made from a sewing needles (more info is in the thread I liked to earlier). While solvent cement is useful for certain without CA glue (all viscosity) modeling wouldn't be fun at all.  Some modelers, who still like to apply thin CA out of the bottle, use very small nylon tubing inserted into the tip of CA glue bottle cap.  It is almost as thin as a hypo needle.  But I still prefer better control of the method I use.

 

As for that bottle with hypo-needle applicator, it is a hit or miss proposition.  I use Methylene Chloride as plastic cement., and the heat from my hand holding the bottle evaporates the liquid inside the bottle creating pressure in the bottle, making the liquid come out of the needle on its own, without even squeezing the bottle.  In order for this not to happen I have to first hold the bottle right side up and squeeze out some air. Then while holding it squeezed, I turned upside down and, with my fingers I have to control the pressure inside so that I have better control of the liquid coming out.  Not very convenient or precise.

There is a liquid cement applicator which is just an open ended glass tube with a hypo needle application n one end.  You fill that tube with liquid cement and since the other end is open, there is no pressure buildup.  The liquid stays in the applicator until the needle is touched to some surface.

Edited February 27, 2021 by peteski

[89AKurt]

On 2/26/2021 at 9:34 AM, Zippi said:

Guys....I'm building my first model since 40+ years ago.  Yeah, it's been a min.  I'm headed to the hobby shop later today to look for the AMT 1950 Chevy truck since I can't find a 49.  I have the full size 1949 Chevy 5 window pickup and want to build the model.  I've been into RC planes for the past 40+ years and use CA glues for balsa/Bass wood.  My question is, back in the day I used Testers.  What CA glue or other would be capatable for these models?  I have these two on hand.  They do not say on the back what material they are ok for.  

I'm sort of familiar with ZAP, use it instead of Testors.
BTW:  be sure to switch the driveshaft around, the instructions are incorrect.

I'm thinking of throwing my Testors into a fire and see what happens. ?

[Zippi]

16 minutes ago, 89AKurt said:

I'm sort of familiar with ZAP, use it instead of Testors.
BTW:  be sure to switch the driveshaft around, the instructions are incorrect.

I'm thinking of throwing my Testors into a fire and see what happens. ?

I took a trip to the local hobby shop and picked this clue up.

[Rick L]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

Eliminate the need for CA?  How? Not sure if I follow.  What if I'm gluing resin or metal parts?

For thin CA I very successfully use the "fork type" applicators made from a sewing needles (more info is in the thread I liked to earlier). While solvent cement is useful for certain without CA glue (all viscosity) modeling wouldn't be fun at all.  Some modelers, who still like to apply thin CA out of the bottle, use very small nylon tubing inserted into the tip of CA glue bottle cap.  It is almost as thin as a hypo needle.  But I still prefer better control of the method I use.

 

As for that bottle with hypo-needle applicator, it is a hit or miss proposition.  I use Methylene Chloride as plastic cement., and the heat from my hand holding the bottle evaporates the liquid inside the bottle creating pressure in the bottle, making the liquid come out of the needle on its own, without even squeezing the bottle.  In order for this not to happen I have to first hold the bottle right side up and squeeze out some air. Then while holding it squeezed, I turned upside down and, with my fingers I have to control the pressure inside so that I have better control of the liquid coming out.  Not very convenient or precise.

There is a liquid cement applicator which is just an open ended glass tube with a hypo needle application n one end.  You fill that tube with liquid cement and since the other end is open, there is no pressure buildup.  The liquid stays in the applicator until the needle is touched to some surface.

I didn’t say it would eliminate the use of CA, I said it would eliminate it’s use for many aspects. I was answering Rodents dilemma of using CA. I use Tamiya solvent or MEK and can position my part and run a bead of it without making a mess or glue my fingers together. I’ve had your problem with larger needles. If you use a smaller aperture needle (.007), you can squeeze the bottle slightly, turn it upside down and the suction of the tube will retain the liquid. This Very controllable.

[89AKurt]

12 hours ago, Zippi said:

I took a trip to the local hobby shop and picked this clue up.

[...]

That's one version I don't have.   Built the Texaco edition and two others (I should take a better picture of it).  Look forward to your project!  BTW: Welcome to the forum. ?