1930 Ford Model A Pickup

[Mike F.]

Hi everyone,

My next project is going to be this 1930 Model A pickup, which I intend to modify into a "Hotrod".

As it comes with no engine, I plan to try and stuff a 1/25 scale engine made from extra parts, into the 1/32 frame. Should be a neat trick, but I think it will fit.

 

I'll have a bit of mock detail to surgically remove first.

 

[thomascoffey1959@gmail.com]

   Yup ,this auto be good.  Stuff an out of scale engine in it , shoe some 1/20 scale wheels n tires under it, and call it a promod.  Kind of like those Zingers from back in the day.   cool concept. You have my attention, I'll be watching.

[Mike F.]

Looks like it may work, with some TLC.

 

[Mike F.]

So, have not had much time of late, but was able to do a bit of work on the engine.

Also, I had to extend the frame a bit. Equivalent to about 10 inches in the 1:1 world.

Now for a bit of bondo work....

[Mike F.]

So I did some Tamia putty work, which I used for the first time. Seems to have shrunk a little. 

What is best to do, apply more putty now, or sand first and then apply more?

Would appreciate some advice.

[alan barton]

Hi Michael, Tamiya putty is not bad for shrinkage but as with most evaporating type fillers, the more you apply the more it shrinks, and sometimes it can come pack to haunt you. I would sand , then fill, and it might take quite a few coats to build t up.

To save you grief in the future i would recommend trying to fill gaps like this a bit more completely with styrene before filling the remaining gaps with some automotive body filler.  I save the Tamiya putty for small imperfections in the automotive filler surface, rather than using it as a large scale filler.

good luck with your project.  I have a sizable collection of 1/32 scale rods including this Model A from Pyro. If I could make another suggestion, the 340 Mopar in the 41 Plymouth kit and the Dodge Red Ram hemi in the "new" AMT Ala Kart are closer to 1/32nd scale than 1/25th.  I am going to use them both in future 1/32nd scale projects.

Cheers

Alan

[Mike F.]

1 hour ago, alan barton said:

Hi Michael, Tamiya putty is not bad for shrinkage but as with most evaporating type fillers, the more you apply the more it shrinks, and sometimes it can come pack to haunt you. I would sand , then fill, and it might take quite a few coats to build t up.

To save you grief in the future i would recommend trying to fill gaps like this a bit more completely with styrene before filling the remaining gaps with some automotive body filler.  I save the Tamiya putty for small imperfections in the automotive filler surface, rather than using it as a large scale filler.

good luck with your project.  I have a sizable collection of 1/32 scale rods including this Model A from Pyro. If I could make another suggestion, the 340 Mopar in the 41 Plymouth kit and the Dodge Red Ram hemi in the "new" AMT Ala Kart are closer to 1/32nd scale than 1/25th.  I am going to use them both in future 1/32nd scale projects.

Cheers

Alan

Thanks for the tips Alan. 

I will take your advice and sand before next putty application. If I can't get it right, I may hide imperfections with some faux wood running boards.

I'm pretty far along with the current hodgepodge engine, so I'll stick with it.

I would love to see a pic of your '30 Model A.

Thanks

Mike

[Chariots of Fire]

I agree with what Alan said about filling gaps first.  I use CA a lot and when the gaps are small I just sand them and let the CA capture the sanding dust.  It is a good filler.  Then I can use the Tamiya putty sparingly.  It does tend to shrink and it takes a bit of patience to work with it.  Let it harden really well and then sand the extra putty away.  If you still have gaps try filling them at that point with glue and/or styrene and then reputty.

[Kromolly]

1 hour ago, Chariots of Fire said:

I agree with what Alan said about filling gaps first.  I use CA a lot and when the gaps are small I just sand them and let the CA capture the sanding dust.  It is a good filler.  Then I can use the Tamiya putty sparingly.  It does tend to shrink and it takes a bit of patience to work with it.  Let it harden really well and then sand the extra putty away.  If you still have gaps try filling them at that point with glue and/or styrene and then reputty.

Not to hijack this thread, but thanks for the information on CA glue and sanding dust.  I've been saving dust for this purpose and am going to try this.  Does the CA & dust mixture sand OK?

[Kromolly]

This is a cool project.  I'm looking forward to seeing that large engine crammed in the Model A.  Neat concept.

[Chariots of Fire]

NO need to save the dust, Roy.  Just wipe away most of the CA leaving the rest in the void.  Let the sanding stick or file make the residue and in doing so it will fill and harden the void.  The mixture sands away fine and it does not shrink.

[Tom Geiger]

Per Alan’s comments... when I have a gap or void, I will whittle down some scrap plastic to fill the gap and douse it good with thick (gap filling) CA.  Once dry, sand that down and it’s all plastic. At that point if you need some finishing, that’s when you employ the putty.

I like Bondo one part glazing putty. A tube at Walmart is less than $5.

[Mike F.]

More good tips. Thanks guys.

A little progress on the engine. Had to eject the starter, but I'll try to wedge it in from below when ready to mount the engine permanently.

Still need to figure some mounting points and some sort of support channel beneath.

[Mike F.]

Some more progress on the engine. Good for now, until time for setting into chassis frame.

Its a chevy pretending to be a mopar waiting to be installed in a Ford.

 

also, I have to acknowledge my pit crew?

[Mike F.]

I decided to remove the spare tire well and fill it in. A bit of putty work to follow.

I removed the hood and panels from the body front and added a firewall from an extra one that I cut down. More putty work to come.

[Mike F.]

A bit of an update for anyone who's interested.

So, I got the wheels and tires selected and together. I went with some 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass rims I had left over because I thought they would look good. I had some Cragar SS rims, but decided against. Still need to raise the rear a bit, but looks like it is coming together.

 

I modified the rear suspension to be a leaf spring design and used a modified rear end / axle. - still a little work to do here though.

 

I kept the front suspension. Front tires are not as wide as the rear, so fit under the fenders with some clearance. Not sure about the turning radius though.

I also did a bit of upholstery work. The interior color will be black. That's it for now.

 

[Mike F.]

So, after much patching, sanding & priming, followed by more patching, sanding and priming, I think I have the body where I want it.

I'm fairly happy with how the fender and running boards turned out, so moving on to getting the engine and drivetrain synced up.

Firewall turned out well.

All primed up and ready for color.

going to go with metallic green for the upper body and pickup bed, then gold for the fenders and frame.

[FLHCAHZ]

Lookin good.  Nice fab work!

[Mike F.]

13 minutes ago, FLHCAHZ said:

Lookin good.  Nice fab work!

Thank you sir!

[Mike F.]

Got a little more progress.

Lick of paint on the frame and fenders.

Installed the engine, drive train, suspension and wheels.

Headers are a bit off kilter, but too late now. Was thinking I should have shortened them too and try to run side pipes, but I'm getting lazy. 

Also, added a custom shifter.

[Mike F.]

A bit more progress.

I've gotten the body painted and a few details done. Just need to do some detail on the bed and some paint touch-up.

[Mattilacken]

Looks cool ?

[Mike F.]

Thanks Matt!

Unrealistic for sure, but having fun building it.

6 hours ago, Mattilacken said:

Looks cool ?

??

[Mike F.]

Front end is done. Next up is the pickup bed.

[Mike F.]

Pickup bed is complete and In place.

Just a few more details and I'll call this one done.