4WD driveshaft

[NOBLNG]

This is how I built a two piece telescopic driveshaft. It will articulate in one direction to allow for the transmission and differential being at different elevations. The main tube is 0.156” aluminum which scales out to  3.9” in 1/25th, or 3.75” in 1/24th. I plugged the main tube ends with 1/8” styrene and CA to approximately 1/4” deep. Then I made a slot about 1/8” deep and .090” wide. I have a small file that is that thickness, so that is what I used for a gauge.

The “ears” now get filed to just under .090” wide so they will fit between the other ears. The tips of the ears can now be rounded off. The front and rear yokes get the ears drilled for a .032” brass pin. Two of the yokes can now be cut from the tube and a pin added that will slide into the transfer case and differential. I used a1/16” pin and drilled the T/C and diff to accept it.

 

 

A piece of 1/16” aluminum rod is added to the third yoke to simulate a splined shaft. The ears on this yoke and the main shaft get a piece of .080” styrene rod glued between the ears and it gets cross drilled to accept the brass pin. The main driveshaft tube is cut to length and shimmed down with 1/8” and 3/32”aluminum  tube and CA.

 

Once the CA is dry, the “splined” yoke will telescope into the main shaft. The front and rear yokes can be connected with a brass pin. Once installed the pins can be trimmed and glued in place.

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by NOBLNG

[89AKurt]

There have been times I wanted to try this.  Good tutorial, thanks for posting.

[NOBLNG]

Thanks. This is my second time building a driveshaft. I built a double cardan style on my Jeepster that turned out fairly well...for a first try. Thanks to Dennis E. for clueing me in to the telescoping tubing sizes.? I am going to try this method again for the front shaft using the next size down for the main tube. We’ll see how it goes.

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by NOBLNG

[NOBLNG]

I managed to make a front shaft using 1/8” diameter for the main tube. This time I used a small file (.075”sq.) to slot the end of the tubes. I didn’t bother to plug the tubes with styrene this time as I don’t really think it is necessary.

I used .023” welding wire for cross pins and I tried to use 1/16” aluminum rod for the u-joint, but I just couldn’t drill a hole through it. I wound up using 1/16” square styrene instead...much easier to drill a tiny centred hole in than round.

The rest of the procedure is the same as the rear, just a little harder to hang onto.?

Sometimes I think I do my best work between 9 and 10.?

I think next time, instead of drilling dimples in the un-pinned ears, I will drill a shallow hole and insert dummy pins. It would add to the realism and it might look nicer polished than painted.?

 

Edited June 4, 2022 by NOBLNG

[bisc63]

Very nice, and the perfect partner to your transfer case tutorial. Thanks for sharing!

[MeatMan]

Awesome stuff!

[Deuces ll]

Yep! Awesome....??

[AmericanMuscleFan]

This is the kind of thing I love the most when an enthusiast tries to improve a part of the kit to make it more realistic!  And what a difference...!  Well done Greg, this is high caliber work! ?