Lamborghini Miura

[Zippi]

Pretty kewl looking car.  That green looks really good.  The detail work and all the mods are coming along nicely. 

[70 Sting]

14 hours ago, alan barton said:

Don't be scared of using the spray cans though, they lay down nice and  smooth and if you keep checking your surface after each coat, I think you will minimise a lot of the graininess.

Hey Alan, I used a Tamiya rattle can on my previous model and was quite happy with the results - way better than the hardware store offerings I had used prior. Of course part of that was me not really knowing what I was doing (much like now).

I know there is a 'general' rule about the order in which the 3 main types of paint can be applied, however that's not likely the case in mine or your situation. I'm fairly certain it has to do with distance and the amount of paint applied.

I realize there is quite a learning curve when it comes to airbrushing, but it's kinda fun and I'm finding myself looking for things to paint with it. :^)

[Venom]

On 8/10/2021 at 12:29 AM, alan barton said:

I definitely would NOT start sanding that candy finish.  It probably wouldn't remove much texture and it would be guaranteed to introduce patchiness.  As you are already using Tamiya paints, I would put three or four coats of Tamiya clear on it and then wetsand and polish the clear.

Great choice of colour by the way, on one of my childhood favourites!

Cheers

Alan

AGREED....

16 hours ago, 70 Sting said:

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I guess I'll be learning another new skill - airbrushing clear. Will it hide the slight texture in the paint?

I have Tamiya X-22 on hand and after reading various methods of application, I gather the consensus is to thin it with Lacquer thinner, preferably the retarder type, 50/50 or 40/60 (paint to thinner) and sprayed between 15 to 20 psi.

There's quite a discrepancy on how it's actually applied. Some suggest multiple light layers until desired thickness or gloss is achieved, other say fewer, heavier applications. Not much mention of drying time between coats.

Guess I have some experimenting to do.

The texture in the paint probably won’t be hidden completely in certain spots, meaning when you look closely you might see some slight texture variation under the clear, but it’ll look better and the surface will be super smooth if you sand and polish right, and since the only other good option would be to strip all the paint back off and try again, it’s questionable whether it would be worth it. That’s your choice.

However you lay down the clear don’t expect to achieve a nice glossy finish and don’t freak out if it comes out dull or even slightly rough, because you are going to wet-sand and polish the heck out of this thing anyway. Do avoid spraying too heavy or too wet, however, because you don’t want runs or sags since they are harder to fix. Just focus on one nice, thin coat at a time. Stack another coat on another coat allowing some dry time in between. Take your time. ....Love that green!?

Edited August 11, 2021 by Venom

[Venom]

Here’s why you don’t freak out.... When I clearcoated this it basically turned out like sand paper on the hood. Careful and tedious sanding and polishing made it beautiful.

[Can-Con]

16 hours ago, 70 Sting said:

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I guess I'll be learning another new skill - airbrushing clear. Will it hide the slight texture in the paint?

I have Tamiya X-22 on hand and after reading various methods of application, I gather the consensus is to thin it with Lacquer thinner, preferably the retarder type, 50/50 or 40/60 (paint to thinner) and sprayed between 15 to 20 psi.

There's quite a discrepancy on how it's actually applied. Some suggest multiple light layers until desired thickness or gloss is achieved, other say fewer, heavier applications. Not much mention of drying time between coats.

Guess I have some experimenting to do.

NO . . . no lacquer thinner. It may eat into the previous layers of paint and wrinkle it. Some swear by it but I wouldn't chance it unless I had to.

I use regular rubbing alcohol with Tamiya acrylics, have for over 30 years now.  Almost every one of my cars and pickups has the windows tinted with Tamiya acrylics although they mostly don't show well in pics.

I'd just shoot 2 good coats of clear, waiting a day between coats. Wet sand it with 6000 or 8000 paper to get rid of most of the orange peal and shoot two more coats. Wait another day or two and wet sand and polish that out. 

It looks like you have a great looking candy coat on there, it'd be a shame to ruin it.

[70 Sting]

1 hour ago, Venom said:

However you lay down the clear don’t expect to achieve a nice glossy finish and don’t freak out if it comes out dull or even slightly rough, because you are going to wet-sand and polish the heck out of this thing anyway. Do avoid spraying too heavy or too wet, however, because you don’t want runs or sags since they are harder to fix. Just focus on one nice, thin coat at a time. Stack another coat on another coat allowing some dry time in between. Take your time.

Thanks for the heads up, @Venom. No doubt I would have been freaking out. It's very difficult for a newbie to sort through and determine the best way to proceed - 'build in layers', 'spray it on heavy or you won't get a glossy finish' < I'm sure both methods worked for those who used them. 

Judging by the excellent results in your before and after photos, I have a little more confidence going forward. It makes sense that the glossy finish comes from proper sanding and polishing.

@Can-Con Are you saying that the lacquer thinner used to thin the clear could ruin the acrylic paint underneath? I'm using all Tamiya products. I would say 75% of the information/posts I could find used Mr. Color Lacquer Thinner or Tamiya brand with the remainder being mostly Tamiya X-20A. I recall someone saying that IPA dried too quickly... wait, now that I think about it, Tamiya has a paint retarder that slows down the drying time and I believe that's what he used with IPA. There was no real mention of what type of paint they were applying the clear on top of.

Hmm, more stuff for me to think about ?

[Can-Con]

5 hours ago, 70 Sting said:

 

@Can-Con Are you saying that the lacquer thinner used to thin the clear could ruin the acrylic paint underneath? I'm using all Tamiya products. I would say 75% of the information/posts I could find used Mr. Color Lacquer Thinner or Tamiya brand with the remainder being mostly Tamiya X-20A. I recall someone saying that IPA dried too quickly... wait, now that I think about it, Tamiya has a paint retarder that slows down the drying time and I believe that's what he used with IPA. There was no real mention of what type of paint they were applying the clear on top of.

Hmm, more stuff for me to think about ?

Hobby thinners should be fine.  When you said "lacquer thinner" I was thinking of the cans of the stuff I get at Canadian Tire. But,, even then, I haven't had any problems using it with auto lacquers over acrylics but I wouldn't recommend it to other people. 

Actually, I would have stripped that "before" pic Venom showed and started again. Something definitely went wrong when he sprayed that. Paint should never turn out that grainy.

 

[70 Sting]

This past weekend I rolled the dice and sprayed Tamiya X-22 thinned 1:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner Retarder type. I applied 3 lighter coats and 2 wet coats with about 10 minutes dry time in between. It went on better than I expected and hid the grainy texture in the candy coats.

However, not sure I want to continue using X-22 as it takes forever to dry - even after 2 days and at least 12 hours in a dehydrator (ask me how I know, as they say).

Been hearing some good things about Future floor polish or perhaps I'll try Tamiya LP-9 or decanted TS-13. Any thoughts on these?

Thanks!

[JollySipper]

That looks so good, I don't think I would do any sanding on that clear.... I use something called Formula One 'Scratch Out'. It has a very mild abrasive texture to it, and would shine that up really nice! Usually you can find it in an auto parts store.......

Again, that looks Really good......

[Bainford]

Man, I'm really digging that colour.

[70 Sting]

23 hours ago, JollySipper said:

That looks so good, I don't think I would do any sanding on that clear.... I use something called Formula One 'Scratch Out'. It has a very mild abrasive texture to it, and would shine that up really nice! Usually you can find it in an auto parts store.......

Again, that looks Really good......

Sounds like it’s similar to Meguires Scratch X.

I had to remove a couple blemishes in the clear that happened from transporting the model - a blue shop towel had stuck to it - even after 24 hours including 12 in a dehydrator. I used some wet sandpaper and Tamiya Finish compound but it didn’t seem to work as well as Novus #1. Yet more lessons learned. Beginning to wonder if a problem-free model is even possible. ?

Edited August 18, 2021 by 70 Sting

[Modlbldr]

Man! That looks amazing! Your work on this has turned out beautifully. Love the color on it. It looks very similar to my Nova I did. I used a layer of Tamiya Gun metal, then a layer of green and then the clear green.

Keep up the good work. I like how your interior turned out too.

Later-

[David G.]

Wow! ? 

Beautiful finish on the paint, congrats!

David G.

[70 Sting]

@Modlbldr Great minds think alike ?. Interesting that you sprayed green on top of the silver before applying the candy green. Was that to reduce the number of candy coats required?  How did you dull the chrome? Panel liner, dullcote, clear smoke?

@David G. I think I got lucky with the clear coat - thanks to tips from forum members.

Edited August 18, 2021 by 70 Sting

[Modlbldr]

1 hour ago, 70 Sting said:

@Modlbldr Great minds think alike ?. Interesting that you sprayed green on top of the silver before applying the candy green. Was that to reduce the number of candy coats required?  How did you dull the chrome? Panel liner, dullcote, clear smoke?

@David G. 

I was just playing with different things , like you said, had wanted to not have to spray so many clear green coats.

The chrome is sprayed with a couple of light coats of Tamiya Smoke.

Later-

[Can-Con]

That turned out beautifully Harry. 

[Venom]

Harry, the clear tuned out good...and that green is excellent! ...Big fan of green!

[slusher]

On 8/16/2021 at 8:48 PM, 70 Sting said:

This past weekend I rolled the dice and sprayed Tamiya X-22 thinned 1:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner Retarder type. I applied 3 lighter coats and 2 wet coats with about 10 minutes dry time in between. It went on better than I expected and hid the grainy texture in the candy coats.

However, not sure I want to continue using X-22 as it takes forever to dry - even after 2 days and at least 12 hours in a dehydrator (ask me how I know, as they say).

Been hearing some good things about Future floor polish or perhaps I'll try Tamiya LP-9 or decanted TS-13. Any thoughts on these?

Thanks!

Fantastic shine and color!

[70 Sting]

Engine and chassis are complete. Tried my hand at adding some wiring - turned out ok, I guess. It's not to spec but rather what I thought looked interesting. On a side note, what a difference a quality pin vise and drill bits make - no more skipping across the surface like the cheapie, generic set I bought off Amazon.

Thanks for looking.

[slusher]

Very nice clean work..

[70 Sting]

Thanks @slusher

[Belairconvertable]

Looks great!

[70 Sting]

I want to send a huge thank you to @Dann Tier for generously sending me a replacement set of louvers for the Miura. 

 

 

[70 Sting]

All done!  Took some photos this afternoon. Many thanks to all those who gave me good advice along the way.

Cheers! ?

[David G.]

Paint and detailing look great!

Could easily be mistaken for a 1:1.

David G.