Venom Posted August 12, 2021 Posted August 12, 2021 Hi everyone. Ive been experimenting with cheap scrap clear plastic lately for making windows and using C/A glue. I’m getting some mild fogging on the “glass” around the immediate area of the glue spot. I want to know if there are any after the fact treatments that can be applied to make the fogging become transparent.
Venom Posted August 12, 2021 Author Posted August 12, 2021 Awesome... thanks! Couldn’t have imagined it being any easier than that?
Jack L Posted August 12, 2021 Posted August 12, 2021 I use Bob Smith Inds. glues and insta-set accelerator no problem on glass or paints. Been using it for years
peteski Posted August 12, 2021 Posted August 12, 2021 Yeah, what Jack said. For the extra cautious (Bob Smith Ind.) also sells Odorless CA (Gold) which does not cause fogging. Yes, it is more expensive but it is a cheap insurance against fogging. And as Jack said, if you use some sort of accelerator (I also used the BSI brand), which instantly cures CA, there will be no fogging. Coating the "glass' with Future (or whatever the current name is) also prevents fogging. Coatign the "glass" with Future after it fogged up will also make the fogging disappear. CA fogging is caused by the uncured (liquid) CA evaporating. The vapors get deposited on surfaces causing the fog. As I understand this property is desired by the police - they use the CA fogging property to lift fingerprints.
Venom Posted August 13, 2021 Author Posted August 13, 2021 20 hours ago, Jack L said: I use Bob Smith Inds. glues and insta-set accelerator no problem on glass or paints. Been using it for years 19 hours ago, peteski said: Yeah, what Jack said. For the extra cautious (Bob Smith Ind.) also sells Odorless CA (Gold) which does not cause fogging. Yes, it is more expensive but it is a cheap insurance against fogging. And as Jack said, if you use some sort of accelerator (I also used the BSI brand), which instantly cures CA, there will be no fogging. Coating the "glass' with Future (or whatever the current name is) also prevents fogging. Coatign the "glass" with Future after it fogged up will also make the fogging disappear. CA fogging is caused by the uncured (liquid) CA evaporating. The vapors get deposited on surfaces causing the fog. As I understand this property is desired by the police - they use the CA fogging property to lift fingerprints. Thanks guys?
vintagerpm Posted August 13, 2021 Posted August 13, 2021 (edited) Bob Smith Super-Gold+ CA or Gator's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue Edited August 13, 2021 by vintagerpm
Force Posted August 14, 2021 Posted August 14, 2021 My solution is to not use super glue on windows or anywhere else where fogging can occur because it's the fumes from the CA glue that causes the fogging.
Tom Geiger Posted August 14, 2021 Posted August 14, 2021 I use canopy cement. There are several brands. Or archive quality double sided clear scrapbook tape for installing glass
Oldcarfan27 Posted August 14, 2021 Posted August 14, 2021 I also heard that prepping the clear parts with "The Treatment wax" (or probably other car polishes) will prevent the glue from fogging. I also read that it's caused by moisture or humidity in the air, so try super gluing clear parts on dry days.
JohnU Posted August 15, 2021 Posted August 15, 2021 Or just don’t use it. Canopy glue, PA glue, clear epoxy is better. I got away from the super glues all together for most, and I mean most everything that’s final assembly. Still use for mock ups. Never on clear parts. Done with that!
Venom Posted August 16, 2021 Author Posted August 16, 2021 On 8/14/2021 at 6:30 PM, JohnU said: Or just don’t use it. Canopy glue, PA glue, clear epoxy is better. I got away from the super glues all together for most, and I mean most everything that’s final assembly. Still use for mock ups. Never on clear parts. Done with that! Yes I, I agree that canopy glue seems to be the ticket here with finicky window assembly. It’s what I ended up using (was the first time I’ve ever used it), and wondered why I waited so long to try it. It is a tad more difficult to apply in tiny amounts such as on the end of a toothpick because of its thickness, but it adheres great and can be easily wiped off if you blunder or need to start over. I will still use C/A on most things however.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now