Duplicolor 1k clear

[Hondamatic]

Anyone use this stuff before? I did this ranchero and the coke cooler but after 24 hour dry time I put some molotow on the cooler lid and it lifted the paint. Maybe I should wait longer? Looks amazing though 

 

Edited August 18, 2021 by Hondamatic

[Fat Brian]

6 minutes ago, Hondamatic said:

Anyone use this stuff before? I did this ranchero and the coke cooler but after 24 hour dry time I put some molotow on the cooler lid and it lifted the paint. Maybe I should wait longer? Looks amazing though 

It's probably the alcohol in the Molotow causing the paint to soften.

[cobraman]

Been using that for about a month or so. I love it but it does seem to stay soft for awhile.

[Hondamatic]

21 minutes ago, cobraman said:

Been using that for about a month or so. I love it but it does seem to stay soft for awhile.

Thanks for the reply, I saw the can say 48 hours but was wondering if I should go even longer 

[Rodent]

That's an interesting "Coke Bottle" green on the Ranchero. What is it?

[Hondamatic]

15 minutes ago, Rodent said:

That's an interesting "Coke Bottle" green on the Ranchero. What is it?

Tamiya TS-60 pearl Green 

[cobraman]

I posted the problem I had in WIP I did for my 1/18 Willys gasser. I let it dry for more than 48 hours. I had to turn it upside down to work a couple of chassis bits. I set it on a new micro fiber towel. Had it that way for about 15 min. When I turned it over I saw that the towel had imprinted into the clear. Had to sand the roof and repaint and clear.

[Hondamatic]

29 minutes ago, cobraman said:

I posted the problem I had in WIP I did for my 1/18 Willys gasser. I let it dry for more than 48 hours. I had to turn it upside down to work a couple of chassis bits. I set it on a new micro fiber towel. Had it that way for about 15 min. When I turned it over I saw that the towel had imprinted into the clear. Had to sand the roof and repaint and clear.

Car looks good man, I'm really worried about the recoating window, in case I'd have to recoat or repair like you did. Last year I got back into the hobby after a 13 year break and I've been using Mr hobby UV clear and have been really happy with it but wanted to try this stuff. At least I ruined a coke cooler lid instead of a whole body 

[Rodent]

1 hour ago, Hondamatic said:

Tamiya TS-60 pearl Green 

Thank you, I like it.

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Hien!

Sorry for your paint problem.  I've worked extensively with Molotow's chrome lately, and here's what I know. 

First, it is described as an INK, which may surprise us, but I take them at their word. Second, I apply a lot of Molotow's chrome with a brush (!), saturating or flooding the part, but without EVER second strokes until it is fully dried. Spectacular results for me. But working with brushes required cleaning said brushes afterward... So, third: the only cleaning fluid that works fast and clean for me is Tamya's lacquer thinner. Therefore, even if it is technically ink, it seems to have some kinship with lacquer. 

As you may know, you must never put lacquer on top of urethane, even more so if it is "fresh". Even after many years of drying, shooting lacquer on a urethane finish will often craze it. Laws of chemistery, somehow. 

The very nature of your clear is what allows it to flow so smoothly, but also what would make it boil under Molotow. 

Just my two cents, FWIW...

CT 

[peteski]

Claude, what exactly do you think ink is?  There are plenty of permanent (waterproof) inks out there which require organic solvents (like lacquer) to remove them.  As I understand Tru-Color paint is also an ink. Sharpie markers use permanent ink too. Those are just few examples.

Some interesting info is presented in https://printplanet.com/threads/difference-between-ink-and-paint.18367/

[Claude Thibodeau]

3 minutes ago, peteski said:

Claude, what exactly do you think ink is?  There are plenty of permanent (waterproof) inks out there which require organic solvents (like lacquer) to remove them.  As I understand Tru-Color paint is also an ink. Sharpie markers use permanent ink too. Those are just few examples.

Some interesting info is presented in https://printplanet.com/threads/difference-between-ink-and-paint.18367/

Hi Peter!

Having worked a few years in a print shop, I'm reasonnably aware of ink composition, and I've experienced different "recipies" that required varied "hotness" in the cleaning solvents depending on type of ink. I can't pretend to master the composition of Molotow's chrome, I'm just relaying what worked at my end. Voilà!

Regards,

CT

[OldNYJim]

Has anyone tried this stuff over acrylics?  I’m curious as to how hot it is - that finish looks GREAT!

Looks like it self levels really nicely!  Anyone had any issues with it crazing styrene or anything like that?

[Hondamatic]

4 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Has anyone tried this stuff over acrylics?  I’m curious as to how hot it is - that finish looks GREAT!

Looks like it self levels really nicely!  Anyone had any issues with it crazing styrene or anything like that?

It doesn't craze styrene.. well, I shot it over a bare / poorly prepped revell body and it looked pretty good

[Hondamatic]

So this body was drying for about 4 days, half the time in a dehydrator. I ran some molotow on the inside of the body and it was good, so I painted on the trim and this happened. This 1k stuff is pretty good paint, its just that I can't wait 2 weeks or however long it'll take to do my trim work 

[Mark]

At this point, I'd give up on using Molotow on trim like that.  I've only seen two Molotow-on-all-exterior-trim jobs in person.  One guy in the local IPMS chapter masked off an entire car body and airbrushed all of the trim with it.  It looked great, but to my knowledge he hasn't done it again.  The other was on an unpainted but polished promo body molded in color.

Why not BMF the Ranchero?  Even if the foil job comes out only half as nice as the paint, it'll still look great...

[Hondamatic]

58 minutes ago, Mark said:

At this point, I'd give up on using Molotow on trim like that.  I've only seen two Molotow-on-all-exterior-trim jobs in person.  One guy in the local IPMS chapter masked off an entire car body and airbrushed all of the trim with it.  It looked great, but to my knowledge he hasn't done it again.  The other was on an unpainted but polished promo body molded in color.

Why not BMF the Ranchero?  Even if the foil job comes out only half as nice as the paint, it'll still look great...

I'm afraid of BMF. Ive been using molotow for a while now,, but normally over mr hobby or testors lacquer clear. Maybe one day I'll get fed up and try. Just got back into the hobby last year and been trying to learn and do new things 

Edited August 20, 2021 by Hondamatic

[Foghorn Leghorn]

I'm intrigued by that clear coat.

I wanna try some, spray a few coats, then wet-sand with some really fine paper to smooth it out. Then blow on one last coat or two. If it behaves like lacquer, it can be fine-sanded & compounded.

[Hondamatic]

35 minutes ago, Foghorn Leghorn said:

I'm intrigued by that clear coat.

I wanna try some, spray a few coats, then wet-sand with some really fine paper to smooth it out. Then blow on one last coat or two. If it behaves like lacquer, it can be fine-sanded & compounded.

This is one of those clears that you gotta do everything within 2 hours or wait "48" although I think it has to be more

I do your method with Mr hobby UV clear, however 

[peteski]

9 hours ago, Hondamatic said:

So this body was drying for about 4 days, half the time in a dehydrator. I ran some molotow on the inside of the body and it was good, so I painted on the trim and this happened. This 1k stuff is pretty good paint, its just that I can't wait 2 weeks or however long it'll take to do my trim work

I suspect that regardless how long you waited for the clear to "dry", the same problem will occur. It looks like incompatibility of the Molotow solvent and the clear.