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Posted

What I normally do for coilover shocks is paint the whole unit semi gloss black and then come back with a silver Sharpe and highlight the springs.  It doesn't come out the greatest sometimes so I'm looking for idea's on how you guys get the job done.    

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Posted

I couldn't have seen the shock well enough without the use of my headset magnifying glass.  This headset get used a lot and was well worth the money.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Since those are plated you could brush paint it flat black and then use a Q tip to wipe the paint off the spring. For ones that aren't plated I paint them black then dry brush the spring whatever color I want it and paint the attachment points silver.

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

Since those are plated you could brush paint it flat black and then use a Q tip to wipe the paint off the spring. For ones that aren't plated I paint them black then dry brush the spring whatever color I want it and paint the attachment points silver.

Thank's for the info Brian.  I used a fine tip Sharpe and it came out pretty good.

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Edited by Zippi
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Zippi said:

I came up with a solution that looks ok.  

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Here's what I would do. Just simply black wash in between the spring. . Looks good 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Ctmodeler said:

Here's what I would do. Just simply black wash in between the spring. . Looks good 

Thanks for your input.

Posted
1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I have also used real springs.

This, but more specifically, use a metal wire to make your own springs instead of trying to source a matching pair from something existing. Use the correct gauge metal wire in a softer, more malleable material than steel, then wrap the wire around a machine bolt of the correct thread pitch and diameter. This also eliminates the need to sand the mold seam off of every coil spring loop on the kit part, which most people don't do, and which also sticks out like a sore thumb after you paint the recess black.

Yes, you'll nee to make your own shock body and perches to fit inside the coil spring.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Casey said:

This, but more specifically, use a metal wire to make your own springs instead of trying to source a matching pair from something existing. Use the correct gauge metal wire in a softer, more malleable material than steel, then wrap the wire around a machine bolt of the correct thread pitch and diameter. This also eliminates the need to sand the mold seam off of every coil spring loop on the kit part, which most people don't do, and which also sticks out like a sore thumb after you paint the recess black.

Yes, you'll nee to make your own shock body and perches to fit inside the coil spring.

Thanks for the info on making coilovers.  Ill keep that in mind about the solder.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Casey said:

This, but more specifically, use a metal wire to make your own springs instead of trying to source a matching pair from something existing. Use the correct gauge metal wire in a softer, more malleable material than steel, then wrap the wire around a machine bolt of the correct thread pitch and diameter. This also eliminates the need to sand the mold seam off of every coil spring loop on the kit part, which most people don't do, and which also sticks out like a sore thumb after you paint the recess black.

Yes, you'll nee to make your own shock body and perches to fit inside the coil spring.

Yes. I don’t know why I posted that pic. I did make my own for the TJeepster from soft aluminum wire. Copper or aluminum would work nice and still hold it’s shape. I wrap thin wire around styrene rod to make shock boots also.

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Edited by NOBLNG
Posted

Thanks fellows.  Back on track of painting coilovers, if I would have black wash them, would lacquer thinner on a Q-tip have taken the paint off the springs after the paint had dried or do you need to get after it pretty quick?

Posted
8 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Thanks fellows.  Back on track of painting coilovers, if I would have black wash them, would lacquer thinner on a Q-tip have taken the paint off the springs after the paint had dried or do you need to get after it pretty quick?

You shouldn't have to resort to a strong solvent like lacquer thinner.  Depending on what you used for the wash, you can probably use Windex (ammonia), 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, or Naphtha.  None of these should attack the "chrome". Of course you have to do this not too long after the paint dried (but is still fresh).

Posted
Just now, peteski said:

You shouldn't have to resort to a strong solvent like lacquer thinner.  Depending on what you used for the wash, you can probably use Windex (ammonia), 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, or Naphtha.  None of these should attack the "chrome". Of course you have to do this not too long after the paint dried (but is still fresh).

Good info.....thanks Peter.

Posted

I would not use Sharpie pen.  At least in AZ, the sun's UV rays fade it out quick, like a couple of years.  I'm no pro on painting them, so will lurk and learn.

Posted
4 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I would not use Sharpie pen.  At least in AZ, the sun's UV rays fade it out quick, like a couple of years.  I'm no pro on painting them, so will lurk and learn.

Thanks Kurt.  It will more than likely never see the light of day so I think I'm good to go there.  

  • Haha 1

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