gauge punches

[Paul Payne]

I have printed out several gauges of various diameters on bond paper. Even careful cutting with a razor blade isn't really satisfactory. Can anyone recommend a way to make round punches in various diameters?

[Old Nasty]

Micro Mark offers a nice punch set that works for me.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've found this design to be very helpful for a wide variety of modeling tasks...

[TarheelRick]

I've found this punch set to come in quite handy https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html  I have used it to punch styrene headlight covers for stockcars and gauges from cut and paste images on plain print paper.

Edited October 30, 2021 by TarheelRick

[Paul Payne]

Guys, thanks for the advice and info- I'll check my local hardware store and on line.

[NOBLNG]

I bought these two sets at Michaels.

 

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by NOBLNG

[Rick L]

Also look up leather punches.

 

[peteski]

To have a wide variety of sizes (for things like gauges) I make my own punches by sharpening the ends of K&S Metals telescoping brass tubing  I chuck a piece (that has a square-cut end) in a Dremel (or larger drill for larger diameter tubing) and using a file, file an edge while the tubing is spinning. I sometimes follow up with fine grit sandpaper to make the edge sharper.

I then us them by hand on thin material like paper.  I just place the tubing over the item I want to cut, then spin it with my fingers while also putting downward pressure on it.  That results in clean cuts.

Edited October 31, 2021 by peteski

[Bainford]

Like Pete, I make punches from K&S brass tube. Some are fashioned so they cut on the ID and others on the OD. Which is used depends on whether you want the hole or the disc. It also increases the number of hole sizes you can punch. I use a small hobby hammer on them, punching into the end grain of a piece of hardwood. A block of lead works good for this purpose too. The cutting ends hold up better than expected. I cut plastic sheet up to .010”, decals, different tapes, sand paper, and even thin aluminum. Occasionally the end will need to be dressed. 
 

I also have a couple made from hypodermic tube, one as small as .010”, for the holes in the leather strap holding the bonnet of a Jag XK120. I’ll replace some of the brass punches with hypo tube as I get more sizes. They will last longer than the brass, but are more difficult to form the cutting end. 

[NOBLNG]

2 hours ago, Rick L said:

Also look up leather punches.

 

Thats what the ones from Michaels are. They are weird sizes, likely meant to match eyelet or rivet sizes? If I can’t find one close enough, then it’s tweezers and scissors time for me.?

[Rodent]

I have the Harbor Freight ones that Rick J. has.

[eastown]

Micro Mark.    More money but , you get what you pay for.

[Beans]

On 10/30/2021 at 4:58 PM, NOBLNG said:

I bought these two sets at Michaels.

 

 

X2.  leather punches work great.  Just be sure to have something underneath so you don't damage the end all to heck.  A small leather cutting board or stamping board works well.

[slusher]

On 10/30/2021 at 2:13 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

I've found this design to be very helpful for a wide variety of modeling tasks...

Where did you buy that bill?

[Ace-Garageguy]

20 hours ago, slusher said:

Where did you buy that bill?

Ace hardware.

[Straightliner59]

I have several sets of punches (Harbor Freight,  Micro Mark, Tandy), and a few loose ones, and some I made from tubing. I don't think you can ever have too many tools.