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Posted

Looking pretty sharp so far.  I'm no where near ready to try something like this yet.  These old kits are a little pricey and I'm affraid I'd screw something up.  I'll be watching this one.  

Posted (edited)
On 12/25/2021 at 11:03 PM, Bullybeef said:

That’s cleaning up pretty nice Greg

Thanks Bil. Now I have to figure out how to re-mount the dash in the exact proper spot.?

14 hours ago, customline said:

Greg, your work, in my humble opinion, is meticulous and well thought out. It's going great. This is where the fun is ?  You are a styrene junkie!

Thanks Jim. Not sure about the well thought out part? More like a bunch of after-thoughts.? I should start another project or two, to preserve my sanity and keep me from obsessing about this one.

1 hour ago, Zippi said:

Looking pretty sharp so far.  I'm no where near ready to try something like this yet.  These old kits are a little pricey and I'm affraid I'd screw something up.  I'll be watching this one.  

Thanks Bob. I already have a stock ‘36 on the shelf, and I got this one cheap at a flea market…so if I mess it up, no biggie...its only plastic!?

Edited by NOBLNG
Posted

Philosophically speaking, Greg and Bob, once you've left the instructions behind you have total freedom. 

You can't screw it up!   You just turn it into a Rat Rod! ?IMG_2102.jpg.a53e06f00036b256b8fef8e9d5c61cf0.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 12/27/2021 at 7:54 AM, NOBLNG said:

Thanks Bob. I already have a stock ‘36 on the shelf, and I got this one cheap at a flea market…so if I mess it up, no biggie...its only plastic!?

Great way to look at it. 

Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, Marten said:

May I ask how you cut off the top so nice? Lines are sharp as a needle

I’m just that good….like a surgeon!?? No, really that is how the kit comes. There is also a convertible top in the kit, although  there is no mention of it in the instructions, nor any windshield frame??

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Edited by NOBLNG
Posted

Nice work so far Greg, I found out the hard way on my 36 build that the hood sides are a tad thick at the cowl, I had to rework them significantly to get them to sit flat. I was working with a pile of rebuilders so that may have been a factor. But I suggest a lot of mock up before committing to final paint and assembly.

Posted
15 hours ago, scalepeter said:

looking good.   Nice work going on here.   Nothing like cutting them up and putting them back together.   

Thanks Peter. I do enjoy the slicing and dicing more than a straight OOB.

14 hours ago, customline said:

.....like a surgeon ?

Or maybe Dr, Frankenstein.?

13 hours ago, Bullybeef said:

Nice work so far Greg, I found out the hard way on my 36 build that the hood sides are a tad thick at the cowl, I had to rework them significantly to get them to sit flat. I was working with a pile of rebuilders so that may have been a factor. But I suggest a lot of mock up before committing to final paint and assembly.

Thanks Bil. I have built a stocker and didn’t have issues with the hood. This one is not from the same mold however, since there is quite a difference in the length of the rear window between the two. Maybe just the top section?

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  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 12/28/2021 at 3:07 PM, NOBLNG said:

There is also a convertible top in the kit, although  there is no mention of it in the instructions, nor any windshield frame??

 

Just a quick history on this kit, it started in the early 60's with the choice of making a roadster or chopped 3 window coupe. Then in the 70's the tooling was changed to make the 3 window roof stock height. Then in the late 80's they took the tooling and turned it into a 5 window. That's why there is a convertible top floating around with no windshield (the cowl is missing as well). Not sure why they left the convertible top in the 5 window kit, but who knows.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

This ones got pushed off the bench due to fluctuating interests…but it’s back now.😎 I got the roof attached and blended in, and a rough start on the interior.

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I had removed all the X-members from the frame so had to make new ones. They have a curve to them so I temporarily glued oversized strips in place, then coated the original frame with a sharpie and filed the X-members down until the sharpie disappeared. Then I drilled holes for .040” styrene pins so I could relocate everything back where it was, disassembled it, drilled all my holes for exhaust and lightening. Reassembled and glued all the joints.

I still have to figure out a suspension after I find some suitable wheels and tires. Thanks for lookin. All comments welcome.

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Edited by NOBLNG
  • Like 5
Posted (edited)

I have a few of these gluebombed kits so I started a more radical chop/stretch just for the heck of it. Not sure if I’ll pursue it to the end?😬 Thoughts?

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Edited by NOBLNG
  • Like 2
Posted

This looks much better than the previous pictures, I missed the reshaping of the B pillars but was pleased to see the new version. Well done.

  • Like 1
Posted

Greg, you KNOW I love this kind of project and I love the way you do it so methodically!

Also love all the pictures with explanations, so cool!

  • Like 1
Posted

Since you are asking, my gut on the slanted B-pillar says nah but it's still a bit rough and maybe it will improve as you work it more. The other one is A-1

  • Like 1
Posted

Personally, I prefer straight B-pillars and leaning the A and C pillars in on '30s cars. But it is your build and you can do it as like it. That is the beauty of building model cars.  

On your original post, unless I missed it you could have lengthened the doors and door windows. you said your engine choice meant surgery to the interior to allow foot room, so the doors would need to be longer for access anyway.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I’ve got a 9” rear that I cast glued in place with a couple of shallow air bags, and I got a start on a four link setup.

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I decided I better get the front suspension set too before finalizing the rear. I don’t like the original metal axle setup and wanted to lower it a bit anyways. So I found a dropped axle in the parts box and cut the spring off the kit piece. I had to narrow the spring a bit the mate up with the axle.

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I previously made these radius rods for my ‘31 Sedan that I didn’t use, so I figured I’d put them to use here.IMG_6693.thumb.jpeg.e28b22087bb44c00927d304a52c7ade9.jpeg

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So the stance is now set!

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  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

Finished off the links for the rear. They are 1/16” brass tube and .032” rod. The jam nuts are .060” Plastruct hex rod and the rod ends are punched from .040” sheet.

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Edited by NOBLNG
  • Like 6

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