New to airbrushing - question on Createx opaque colors

[bh1701]

I am just starting to work with my Paasche dual-action airbrush and decided to try painting a chassis, the engine and some other engine compartment items using Createx Opaque Black. The paint looked like it went on well, but after a few days it still has a tacky (or rubbery) feel to it. As I was attaching parts to the engine block, I noticed that the paint was rubbing off the sharp edges and raised areas (like the bolt heads on the transmission).

Any ideas on what I have done wrong, or does it just take a long time for the Createx paint to fully dry before you can start to handle it? Do you need to apply any sort of clear coat to the paint?

Some info on my process:

• Thinned using Createx 4011 Thinner at about 10% ratio.
• Sprayed at around 30 psi
• Paint was applied directly to plastic parts. 
• I did not use any primer (I usually don't prime anything except the body when I use spray cans and have never had any issues)
• Did not wash parts in dish soap and water (I usually do this for bodies, but not other parts - have not had any issues doing it this way)
• Sprayed in garage. Outside temp was in the 70's-80's. with less than 10% humidity.

Any ideas or suggestions will be appreciated!

Thanks,

Bart

[stitchdup]

you need to key the body so the paint has something to stick to. The way you've described theres nothing to hold it on. primer would help also as the craft paints wont stick very well to bare plastic. you might get away with using fine skotchbrite pads to key the plastic but primer thats keyed will work much better

[OldNYJim]

Createx black needs some heat for it to set properly - just a few minutes with a hairdrier, or in a dehydrator.

It's some peculiarity with that Createx color in particular - none of the other colors NEED heat to set correctly, but the black stays rubbery, like you say, without being force-dried.

I like to prime all my stuff too, but that's not causing the problem in this case...

 

[bh1701]

Just now, CabDriver said:

Createx black needs some heat for it to set properly - just a few minutes with a hairdrier, or in a dehydrator.

It's some peculiarity with that Createx color in particular - none of the other colors NEED heat to set correctly, but the black stays rubbery, like you say, without being force-dried.

I like to prime all my stuff too, but that's not causing the problem in this case...

 

Thanks - I'll hit the chassis and other parts with a hair dryer.

If I wanted to use a primer under acrylic paints, what primers would you recommend? Airbrushed or sprayed from aerosol can? Would one of the Tamiya Fine Surface aerosol primers work under acrylic paint?

Thanks,

Bart

[OldNYJim]

Either works fine, in my experience - I've used airbrushable primers, Tamiya primers...my current favorite is the $1-a-can stuff that you can pick up in Meijer (if you have one of those nearby) or Walmart....works just fine!

[Matt Bacon]

I like the Tamiya Fine Surface primer from a can, but it is expensive -- but if you want to never have to polish a clear coat, it's the best starting point. For simplicity of clean up (water), and quality of finish, especially under acrylics, for airbrushing I'd recommend the Stynlyrez primers, which come in silver, grey, black and pink that I know of -- there may be more. Grey is neutral, silver makes the colours pop (and helps stop bleed-through from the base plastic), and pink is ideal for reds and yellows... Ferraris, basically.

best,

M.

Edited December 27, 2021 by Matt Bacon

[OldNYJim]

I never managed to get those Stynlyrez primers primers to stick properly, even with textbook-perfect surface preparation.  They're fine if you aren't doing any subsequent masking, but they peel off super easy if you have to mask anything over top.

Your mileage may vary, of course...

 

[DPNM]

I'm not a water based sprayer for models so I can't help you there.

One thing I do do, especially with smaller parts, is use Comet to give the paint a tooth to cling to. It will get into most of the nooks and crannies. I use either a tooth brush or a small scrub brush depending on the size piece.

You do have to make sure that you remove all the Comet before you spray. Once I use the Comet I usually rinse the part, then rinse and scrub the part using the now clean tooth brush. You may want to do it a couple times.

[Dave G.]

All I use is Stynylrez anymore, switched to it 3-4 years ago and it's never peeled on me. I use low tack tape or de-tacked tape but I've run test shots with blue painters tape and with regular masking tape and it's not peeled. Not arguing just one of those with another view and experience with the stuff.

Many people/modelers have commented on Createx and tackiness. It's rubbery, made to be flexible because it was originally designed for the Tshirt and fabrics industry. Most modelers do clear coat it, just to answer that question.