My very best for you Jaguar Warrior

[LT3]

See new introduce myself for details mentioned here in:

I have medical issues that could challenge your patients and only source of income is once per month.  I'm 81 years old now and completed my college in 2009.  When in collage the teacher asked class what were their hobby interest, and when I mentioned my hobby was model car building saw a few classmates snicker and laugh to themselves and friends. 

 Looks, age and even shacking hands don't mean my hobby will be shacky or have weak construction, and what I do sometimes takes time to develop the right approach to get the proper look I want. I have build this car several times each kits were purchased or my junk yard then had plenty.  But these days that junk yard is gone as are many things used to pursue this hobby, but that is another story.  

You will see how to construct this lift angled top (two kits required), channel the body on the frame, build those door hinges found on the door type using sheet metal and piano wire, drop the front end lower than the kit that already had a 4inch dropped axel design, Not sure if steering will be included perhaps an option, the Engine with tires and wheels are from Revell 41 Willys Street Rod and several home made parts including injector hat.  You will be shown to use the Exacto knife back edge methods.  All this is fundamental these days but not meaning to bore you it will be shown in steps of application.

  Now the real reason to brinolg it here to this forum: We make cars in miniature and some of you are a marvel at what you do. But painting these cars has for me always been the challenge how to get it where I can see it in my minds eye.  I can create what I see in my mind otherwise it becomes a challenge. Hence I created a theme for the build and from this theme create the paint technique and method of application.  

  The theme is Meso American Culture of Mexico empires ruled by Aztec and Mayan cultures.  Each shared cultural behavior of Fierce Warriors, that developed into ranking and standing within their cultures. The Jaguar Warrior (was not the highest rank) but the artistic images easily come to mind, especially if you like Green as a foundation color (green either Toxic, Emerald, or candy apple types) as that fits jungle.

  Add to that a culture that built from the jungle an empire of architectural structures and artistic expression among the most famous in the entire world. So Images of symbolic designs are found or created again with ease. Not liking to hold the human sacrifices made by both of these cultures, but can reflect with skulls or other designs we use in painting methods. 

  All in all what it comes down too...the artistic expression  must become the entire car construction as one big graphic design...not a single color, not a few images but an expression in color (candy apple red, toxic green, pearl whites, along with common colors used within the cultures themselves...a special blue for human sacrifices, Gold and Silver for the reasons other came for there precious valuable, It is possible to build many stories on this background, but I must create as I go what this will look like.  You see the copy right laws are very serious and easy to violate unless you can document... it was not copied, instead hand crafted for little to noting at all.  This method is both good and bad...if you like and follow crats (see a list of sources for research I will provide later) and can create forms in Bondo for real hard and sandable forms to texture paste commonly used in crafts, but "Don't touch it later as I won't harden solid to the touch" Then their is stencil use...Please look at this my home page used in school my major was Art and Photography...along with other studies of interest: Many of these images are created from stencil works I use in art. 

    By the way I don't as a rule build this coupe with moveable steering because the axels have failed my earlier attempts so buying 

 

 

 

When the art is one big graphic, there is no expected image as it becomes surreal or Abstract...but keep it in symmetry (what you do to one fender or side, do to the other) by design then the color can be abstract Imagine being able to paint each side or parts of a car body with colors that may not be perfect, yet by design it fits????  Sounds screwy, but must see to believe..

   I won't go to extremes to show this, but here is an idea to let you see it in your minds eye.  A Jaguar embossed (raised image) on forward edge of a fender as a pair of eyes little color contrast like from the bushes where you expect to find this animal...trailing that image is  embossed body marks the drift back over the fender growing small and less raised till it is flat on the body and ghost painting. Symbolic of he can move so fast as to leave his spots behind...very expressive of 32 coupe setup in an A altered, and certainly fitting the Jaguar Warrior of that period, whose speed and power where his expressed virtues and belief he had in his use of that deity.   If such car would have existed then...but that was pre Columbian (before Spaniards found the Aztecs). 

There is my theme, concept, and reason to use the idea.   Larry

 

 

[NOBLNG]

Welcome to the forums Larry. Looking forward to seeing your work. I am no lawyer, but I don’t think you need to worry about any copyright laws. Especially if you are not profiting from your work or causing someone to lose profit. JMO.?

[LT3]

Part of my degree in photography was copy right laws in depth and yes I do copy images to study construction methods especially crafting.  It is true it's not for profit and providing it as information or education, but if for any reason that became a real work of art and dare to believe famous that is when copy right laws come from the shadows to bite you in the face. And no I'm no attorney but one never knows how art subjects can go...I when in college was awarded a paid semester because the art methods won awards...In photography I won a lifetime code from Helicon Focus because I shared a technique that proved valuable in the development of that software use and application. None of these things did I do for profit, yet they became profitable much to my surprise.  Larry 

[LT3]

Updating: now have all model kits required to create this build for you. However much remains for me to obtain before I can provide the work.  It would be fair to estimate a delay around 2 months minimum before I can present any works (images).
I have no camera, only a cell phone, and do have Photoshop CS4 to help out.  My only printer is Laser and no pictures work well on that printer (text works but pictures don't).
My primary PC motherboard failed and is being RMA back so working from my old PC with little storage and not all my software support till my other pc is up and running.
I want to use the lag time to cover items yet to build, and that to help you stay in touch and not just wave good bye before I can present this construction.
That said here is my topic for now, and some of this is new even for me...I have paint concepts never attempted by me, but I have enough skills to bring them forward and it is the painting that is going to make or break this entire theme construction.
So lets talk about how this model is going to be painted and what paints and techniques are going to be applied. 
 For those of you in the know of painting and skill sets here is the foundation from which I will work: 
My paints are going to be Kandy, and mostly pearls.  White pearls will have and use a white base.  I will test to see if mirrored or chrome will enhance irrodecents of pearls but otherwise the idea will be strait color primers not mirrored or chromed. Exception's:  where shading edges are applied using other colors I may metallic with chromed or mirrored edges. Where panels are used and a black gloss and or matted down black is base coat metallic edge shading may be used (chromed edges then painted a color over chrome to enhance matallic effect)
Most of the body paint will be applied as panels and each may have some graphic images incorporated into the scheme. 
Here is why and what I know of my paint skills or limitations (know myself is key to a good paint job)
 True Candy (Kandy) paint job is even tone across the entire body, no blotches or streaking, and no imperfections of any kind permitted...orange peel, etc.)  Put another way if your an expert with your equipment and mixing techniques you can do this...Otherwise (since I'm not those things) l must improvise.  Here is how I plan to do that: Panel, shading, graphic images, and embossing (raised surface).   Why you ask. That is what breaks up even tones, adds eye candy, tells stories and otherwise delights the viewer to the point he or she, will not notice, or even care if this job is perfect to a true Kandy.  If you like it I have completed what my objective is.
   The car is small not like a full sized car so I must also concern  myself with what is called modeling effect in photos...simply put it looks like a toy  not the real thing look.
It is my opinion only if I can reduce the amount or control the amount of gloss reflections in paint works... it will look more realistic than a toy affect. So Shading, and breaking up tones could reduce that toy look, and the use of flat or matting  may be tested in this build.
  As stated my design requires two kits and that means I have a body and or parts to use in testing ideas or design effects (don't recommend sacrificial cars as todays cost is too high to afford).
Most of my paint will be Kandy Pearls because they change by base color some more or less than others but somewhat predictable: white based pears (white flake pearls) are more iridescent with a white base, yet their gloss is low keyed compared to other Kandy paints.  And yet other pearls may do best with black base and or even same color base to give a much more even tone spread.  
For those in the know nothing is new here, but for those of us who don't have those great skills I hope to provide methods that at least make our work look good and hopefully better than most. 
  I also hope you like my slant lift top it has features that make the build easier to live with since the only change in parts fit are the doors (upper section) as all the rest remains stock (front window and trim not chopped so it fits).

[LT3]

World Events have impacted my presentation and has put me into a dead slow progress.  I have at this time no images to provide, and am building in the background, but financially and limitations of supplies have all but stopped me dead in the water.  Please don't give up on this build and check back from time to time it will over time happen...just have no specific date.  

Larry

[OldNYJim]

I'm excited to see more on this one, in due course.  I like that roof treatment!

[bisc63]

Hang in there, man, your model is shaping up nicely! I'm digging the engine treatment.

[LT3]

I have not gone, just moving at snail pace due to expenses leaving me unable to purchase needs.  Thanks for the interest and that roof treatment is my key feature which I call angled lift top.  Have been working on an extra for this posting...32 Ford 5 window angled lift top...It won't have functional doors and did build because both cars are 32 Fords. plus I wanted to see how complex this mod would be for the 5 window...the treatment is very complicated and not user friendly but it does look good.  Will be photo posting when I get this cell to provide a good quality photos. of both body styles that will be the real cars for this subject.

  I must add the build is now ahead and not show as build in progress.  I'm doing that because it takes too long to update or wait to get parts...My patients is not that good to sit and wait long periods of time (weeks literally)...I just cannot leave it alone. 

Because I never angled tilted a 5 window before it was not known to me the bodies are not the same size all around...they are not.  The 5 window is more narrow with reduced body exposure, otherwise they both (3 and 5 window) fit the same frame.  But that 5 window is very complex to raise and tilt the top...not for the faint hearted, as you must create templets and forms just to hold the shape and to fit the window/door frame post. 

The engine treatment is not too much but for the air horn with throttle plates...otherwise pretty stock treatment

[LT3]

Hello to those who still peak at this posting...so sorry for the time involved.  I have done a mockup of two not one 32 Ford kits

   The normal kit (3 window) is a lift tilt top of a less extreme angle of the one shown as my introduction, but the same design and principles applied to create the effect.

  However I had to use some parts found only in the 5 window coupe which I have never modified the top on the five window so I decided to give it a try...two comments to make: this being my first ever it's not as nice a job as I'm capable of doing, and second is I now know it can be done, but with a lot of careful attention.

  I will be post images soon of both cars. and see if you like the treatment given to the customization of the top.  

  I wish to make a few statements about this treatment as it would apply to a real car in the real world.  I on more than one occasion rode in a both a 3 window and 5 window coupe many decades ago.  One had a conventional chop top (strait down) the other was stock top.  In my day the chop top was the most favored (everybody loved the chop top no matter how good a job it was).

  But if you have never sat in a car with a chopped top you have no way to know how copped up and boxed in you can feel...that is a very enclosed vehicle to sit in, and don't get me wrong I loved the car and riding in it even as a passenger (too young to drive an no license.   

    When modifying this model car I thought back on the chopped top of the day and could imagine the difference this design would have made on the real car...those who may know of what I speak, imagine window size the same (no change in size or roof height)...  that is to say... looking forward from a seat while sitting in the car).

   But from the dash back to where you sit...everything would become a feeling of roominess, as side vision would become open in your immediate area, and it comes with a sense of perspective as the roof tappers (tilts) it conforms to the correct visual effect of distance where size decreases as it moves away...so windows angle tilt, however in perspective visual effect to the passenger or driver, the step angle would optically make your senses believe more room exists than in reality...you must think about that effect to realize how it would make you feel. 

    I once went to an amusement park in California where they had a structure (building) built to throw off your sense of perspective...water would flow up hill, and scale would make on person taller than the next where in real live that tall person was shorter....Believe when I say to you this angle change if sitting inside such a car would mess with your since of distance and scale size...it would make it feel bigger than what it is, and hence roomy with plenty of head space to even add a roll bar and not have it sit on top of your head.

   Now back to reality (sorry for tripping, but not many of you out there would understand as these cars are no longer here (with an occasional custom car show and you won't likely be able to sit inside the car).

  These cars I will show you are what I call solid construction...not intended to finish just working on the design and details of construction method. These cars will not be painted or even finished as they are to test ideas and designs.

    The three window coupe will now be used to forward the theme car concept for which I started this project and why it is called the Jaguar Warrior.  The five window coupe will sit for a future construction of how to tilt angle that top :-).

   Now will come the real hard work on this project (not the building of the car, but creating the theme and painting the car to that theme).

    Hope to post images within the next couple of weeks...my cell phone quit and had to buy a new phone (better for images once I learn how to use the functions)...Kindest regards to all.    Larry

 

 

 

 

 

[LT3]

Just a mild update: the design has changed as has the car.  No longer a 32 Ford 3 window coupe, it is now a Revell 32 Ford 5 window two n one kit car.  Please note: Mentioning here not known to me is a lift-angled top of my design ever applied to a 5 window car.  (it's much more complicated that a 3 window coupe).  

   Because the design change was more than a little successful I will not risk the build with functional doors.  Surprising as it may seem the visibility provided by all that lift top and opening window sizes, has make that a very see comfort closed car look,  keeping the body line details including original door hinges, and window frame lines even though the top was cut and tilted...which changes window edge lines and that door post had to be lengthened and bell mouthed to fit the angel change. 

    By not opening doors the body strength remains in tack, and features I add (roll bar, ornate panels, and or other custom work) will only help hide any cut lines from alterations and body work.

   New to this change also came a decided new look: All 32 Ford 3 or 5 window coupe kits were mastered from a full custom car that had a dropped front axel, different wheel and tire sizes that also favored lowered front end.  These kits will by design of mfg. have a positive rake of ride height, and by changing that one feature it truly gave separation of this car from all others of the same make and mfg. company signature style of design.

     Doing this last change has been much more demanding than I wish to detail here and now, but I will mention the fender design along with the change in raising the front end to extremes has given a look very unexpected.

    When it can be shown... I can now offer a date around (March 2024) God willing and no unexpected events to alter this plan.  My new camera of choice will be the Sony RX100 vii (not no monster that would be my normal choice, and cost more than $5k).

     This camera choice matches my skill levels, meets my tight budget, and has features that for me are jaw dropping in that price range, and for you the viewer...well you will have to wait and see what I can do with my cinematic skill sets.  I choose photography as a major, but I worked in the film making industry behind the scenes as a studio projectionist, and participated in the making of ( not as an actor) on a major movie.  None of this met my hobby pursuit as a videographer (in todays cinema vocabulary).  And this camera will give me selected images even from action shots, and shoot at a whopping maximum of 1000 fps. which can produce hard line focus work in video.  It already has me wanting to design a crane camera mount for that pocket size camera, to show what special effects can be for miniatures only subject...but that is another story and not for now.

   Hope to see everyone in March with both still and video work along with this new design.   Larry

 

[LT3]

I have not been able to purchase the camera (too many expenses) and cost of living becoming hard to manage. Reviewing my original post: the finished car will not have opening and closing doors, the body will not be channeled on the frame...just aligned with small notch.  The rear end has been dropped from stock kit height by two scale inches (2mm) and still has a slight pos. rake but nearly level ride height, the rear end also has been drilled thru for live axel so I can rotate the rear caliper in modified braking system...trying to use some after market metal rotors (photo etched calipers from a Tamiya race car)...yet to be successful but getting close...Oh I should note: I don't do PERFECT,...but it can be called GOOD. 

   I have a question for those who would answer...I have in the past had my car roll off a table and be damaged (total loss) and am considering gluing the front wheels to the axel assembly making it non rotating, yet still turning the rear wheels to show free turning rear rotors on disk brake assembly.  Otherwise due to weakness of stock front axel I would  have to drill out axel and replace with copper tubing and much modified to rotate front wheels and again risk roll offs.  Just seeking to know how you deal with the problem and feel about non rotating wheels.  

  The current construction is not yet body filled to hide lines where cut for plastic surgery, not primed or painted anywhere yet. Trying to seek a friend at my church to either shoot some pictures or let me setup and use his camera at his home to get photos and post them.  He is still getting over the second coming of Corvid so perhaps soon.  This is being setup as a coupe so it has full fenders that have been modified from stock appearance. Using the large tires from Revell 41 Willes on the rear, and still put the normal mag wheels front and rear so they look the same...(didn't use the Willis wheels... just the rear tires and of course the engine the real reason for using that kit)  I will detail the construction of the injector hat with its throttle plates and how I make them.  I have installed a roll cage assembly into the interior construction...it is simulated not an actual to the frame construction.  Just to satisfy those who an perfectionist...this is intended to be a show car not a race; and as a show car it will not have features required of real race cars i.e roll bars attached to frames  etc. But it will have simulated construction...i.e bars the go to the package tray and open the trunk the tubes go to the floor boards but that is it.

 It has a radiator shell but not radiator and it has a PE grill from Model car Garage...it has a starter motor like a street rod, but in real life this thing wouldn't be street driven in the the wildest dreams.  The Hemi engine of the old school design (bug spray injector system) on what would be an overdriven 671 puffer, and the engine mounting at the steering box area in real life I would be fearful of such a design, but looks wise...nice fit of the Hemi into the 32 frame.  Truth be it the original car from which Revell mastered the kit design had a Boss 302 Ford engine,... side mounted engine mount points on that 6 inch dropped front tube axel is a really good street design boxed frame custom car...really car and kit. (not for racing...just custom street rod of modest performance.

  That is it for now just an update.  Larry